brmax
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They are similar as medium size cylinder arm sew machines. Both designed for the 301 stitch. They will both use typical and the same presser feet in a Singer design. The Juki 1341 is a bit newer in design, with access to shafts and its adjustments on top. This runs a M size bobbin. The Consew 227 is based on the Singer 153-B8B to my knowledge. The Consew company is a part of Seiko and has been the successor to Singer industrial for quite some time. These both have other manufactures nowdays making similar designs. Good day Floyd
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My first google: binder attachment 1-1/4” tape results; https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&source=hp&ei=Six2WuSrHsWc5gKUtI6gBg&q=binder+attachment+1-1%2F4”+tape&oq=binder+attachment+1-1%2F4”+tape&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.3..33i160k1.7423.26179.0.30398.30.30.0.3.3.0.1000.7521.0j17j6j2j1j2j0j1.30.0....0...1.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.27.6297.3..0j41j0i131k1j0i22i30k1j33i22i29i30k1.317.VmMipPSYrpM We should really understand, a profesional company, as the ones mentioned and doing custom binder manufacturing are unnatched for 24/7 machine use. Thats just something we all have to weigh for our usage. Sometimes I can work fine with a certain level and price of products, and sometimes I find it not my best choice. Live and keep learning! Good day Floyd
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Maybe Im wrong, but I think its a great idea. Why? In my opinion its base was or can be used from a larger pattern, and carefuly folded in! I do believe the folded in part of the base is, only stitched just a bit under the triangle to allow the folding then triangle being stitched afterward. Again could be totally off base, so Im going to lunch. Good day Floyd
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This MLP4 model in the link is what I have used before in heavy marine canvas zippers prior to stitching. I found it to be great, though expensive and I guess a reason the T-pins are my go to tool. With either method the removal at time of or after the stitching. Respectfully as mentioned I used and someday would like to have one. The clear double sided seam or even basting tape could be used for sure. The t pins are handy and several lengths the 2” is good for my canvas stuff but take a look at JoAnns possibly. Good day Floyd http://www.markwellusa.com/product_p/mpl4m.htm
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Its truly a textile machine, although very special one. The zig zag abilities it has, or optional cams that enable these “many” designs, rank this machine along with its precision at the top for its use. Its not what you need for leather crafting in my opinion, even doing thin leather. In curiosity is there “accessory Cams” for the machine. They are mounted/fastened on a box on the back side. Zig zag stitch has its place and a very good stitch in a stretch situation. This particular machine will sew straight and zig zag. In that respect it is or was copied a lot. The attachments offered with it as cams is criticaly the nice option. Good day Floyd
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When I get a small shop on one of the tropical islands, I will have to have an 867 long arm.
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Yep, NH The budget and any local machines you have found may be worth discussing. We are all here to help. So take it and with a bit of homework and hunting its a sure path. Was for me The machine number models with there letter designations are a real key. In the juki 15 series the side loader is to me very nice to operate and perfectly adequate for your task materials. For the heavier duty task the 1508n is available at a bit more money im sure 500.00 and likely more. This model is said to have more torque than the 41. Though I personaly think its if the need is required, thick seams and many of these obstacles ( consistently ) then yes, imho. In still a heavier duty machine the 1508NH stands alone with a bit more design. You must know by now this model comes with even higher price. In further discussion it needs asking if a pulley speed reduction unit will be needed. And so if leather projects are in the mix it is the slow speed availability that is appreciated. So an actual key point to discuss, of course project dependent. Good day Floyd
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I have had sections or pieces of the project that are just a bit tough. These areas many times bend or push the needle enough to hit something other than their mark! Usually like you mention, in my case a metalic part as the feed dog or the bobbin case on some machines. I have found myself checking the needle tip while installed after such an incident and thought it was fine? And shortly with another follow up issue. So then removed only to find a bur on the tip. What im saying is remove needle to inspect is the best method. Seems the first thunk it burs the tip then just bad needle direction. Floyd
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I just want to say thanks Uwe for that Magnifyer tip that is the greatest! Now back to the pop corn and videos, another excellent show. Good day Floyd
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I am a bit curious and would really like to see a few more photos of that area and particularly the bottom generally. My thoughts honestly are that crack if pulled together, would not result in a flat surface on top. I would discuss more and figure a way to relieve the stress it has, if any more! Good day Floyd
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From this last part of the discussion, I am going to assume there is some slack. This end play/slack is up and down. Its where the inner hook guide/bobbin case opening lever Plate sits in my oppinion. From looking in the 13 series parts book, this is showing a couple different hooks. Interesting hook differences and case “ hold down part”. But anyway I think importantly here in this discussion is, that the case opening lever is on a plate assembly. This is like my 1341 So keeps my interest. Also like my own a slight bit of end play or slack, this will enable the lever to move. Actually still end play, though when pushed as mentioned earlier it actually tilts ( noise/click ) the plate. This seems to move and so can be an adjustment to use some Kentucky windage when adjusting. In this I suggest adjusting to a bit more slack opening. Im hinestly going to be glad in understanding better how best to remove the end play. This may be accomplished with the different but available shims on the gear side but I’m not sure with this plate assembly. On a bit more with hook differences, I see the 1340 and 1341 differences, I suspect not much different than the 340 & 341, I do recall this different bobbin style from a long time ago ( and liked it ) but I have the cap style, maybe adler style of a sort. Have a good day there Floyd ps: respectfully to Juki mine was this way out of the box. I work with it!
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Good day https://s3.amazonaws.com/a.teamworksales.com/JUKI+ENGINEERS/LS-341N%2C+LS-341N-7+Engineer+Manual.pdf I have no clue on the cost, that would have to be evaluated by many more conversations and photos. Its really not a topic honestly without a bit more visuals. I can say they in their day were expensive, as they were built and precisely assembled.. Expensive is probably very high if this is a new hunt. The options available for Clones of this and others brands and types sway many and that includes me. I will easily say new clones on the market in this class are less than 2500. some getting close to grand less than that. I dont think this Juki 341 model when new was as low as 2500.00 I would say they are cloned for a dam good reason. I mean look how many wheels are now made or cloned I in good faith will say take a look at the online machine sellers, for the real name and check out their cost. With this its a bit easier to get digging for others in the same style and researching a few positives about their offering. A name can stand pretty well if its base is built to perform. Floyd
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Singer 111w155 or the Consew 225 clone
brmax replied to unclebubba's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Its in best interest to say most manufactures copied Singer, so using the term knock off is ok but the new term is clone! It doesnt look as though much paint is wore off the fabric/textile surface of either machine. Especially the Consew, it looks unused, although it is a very wise decision to have a look see under them metal inspection slide coverings. These are giving access to the hook and bobbin. This inspection is clearly important to establish a bit more visual on the important metal surfaces and their conditions. For some confidence bolstering Consew is a company that has been around a good while here in the States. With both machines, tilted back to get a better look at some more working parts it would be a good step. Im not sure on your “main” projects so, I will say the bobbins thread capacity may be the same in both. This means the same as any other, when its empty you wished it would have went just a bit farther. Good day Floyd -
Singer 111w155 or the Consew 225 clone
brmax replied to unclebubba's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
It’s a good thing finding these. A servo motor is a real need in sewing, it is a step in your or others learning. Im not sure who termed it; Times have changed. Though I seam to hear it all the time, kids! In roughing out this question, it would be an anvantage for your discussion to be a new topic. Possibly with a photo of each, these are just a start, but seriously a helpful one. I would ask if these are setup for the Top sized thread they were designed for, that being 138. Getting specfic in this question may help a bit later. These exact machines are still used regularly actually, so any technique for a reverse or locking stitch may be a good tip in training as on any machine really. Good day Floyd -
What is the noticeable difference when oil is applied to the basket, in typical amount. I am curious if some grit has made a bur in the raceway. Best to have the throat plate back on while checking this. Good day Floyd
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Glueing large areas?
brmax replied to tH3dOuG's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Theres a brand name, and very old that has specialized to specfics with some adhesives. I just thought to pass what Ive heard from longtime pros. Some points i have heard are foam safe, soft glue line, low soak, hi heat ( i mean arizona landau top hot ). I am not sure if any can be obtained in single cans near you but you may find available somewhere. And to be honest i have also used 3m happily forever, but in the recent past have learned of this company. Camie, take a look under industries. http://www.camie.com/ good day Floyd -
Sneak Peek: UT441 flatbed table attachment for 441 class machines
brmax replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I think its a great table, and just adding to others mention of no gaps. Its well designed and the looks of install and removal of the table is quick. This aspect is very important to myself. Floyd -
In my start not so long ago I never had a tough time locating 92 size thread as thats all I needed and setup for. I did then rely on Coats for much homework in my learning some tips. When lucky to get a used big stitcher a State away. I really only then pursued some homework on locating what i first wanted in machine size so 277 it was. It seemed to me my brand homework choices were not easily avail in big thread, and or possibly renamed and or respooled. I would like to hear any choice in comparison size to hand stitch thread, cord and what many use. I recently glanced at tiger and seen 4 choices, this is just what i googled and so took a look see. Always interesting topic this thread thing, I cannot do and so smartly try and choose to have projects with similar thread needs. Coffee time, Good day! Floyd
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I love wood, its been a way of relaxing in the many little things i built through the years. In respect to all the wood craftsman and many my own relatives. I myself went a bit more towards an industrialist so in all my hot air, respectfully I go for the Red. I think in its assembly you would be much happier, and possibly it comes with the lower secondary bracing. Some want many or certain shop furnishings resembling their ideas. This drives their decisions, also the work. And I want to see and appreciate the craft in everyones work, so try to give my opinion to help them best. This from an old wrench that likes boats, leather and my retirement work, Canvas! good luck Floyd
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I like them all! The second is nice for a wall unit setup as it looks about 2’ feet depth. Im not sure its build material. The top i assume would be an additional item locally obtained. I’m suspecting it is a metal tube structure for the legs. Im not sure yet totally because price ? I could be partial here. the first is nice in that it is assembled pretty easy and looks heavy duty, it has a lower shelf easily for use. I again think or assume the wood panel product needs obtained locally. What i do see as a need to address here is the thickness of the tops all of them, but here it has to be addressed so being smooth at edges or flush with metal. This one maybe offers the widest support? Or depth The third is handy, but i might again assume the top or butcher block, style panel is obtained locally though with the price surely it comes with. So with respect I think i like the metalic legs/ stands from the global supplier that was posted above. I just think they are a better support and at 30euro each not to bad to build with vs the total 345$ for that other unit. That seems to steep. Although still the need to obtain a top for some choices. I guess have to ask to better help is it a wall unit that best suits your shop at this bench or table work area. Floyd
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In the thickness of the pieces being sewn. Meaning the knot would have more room, thus easier to be centered. Floyd
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I think it would come down to what you sew. In this respect I understand polyester is better suited for sunny locations or really UV light. That is primarily why I started with using it as a marine canvas fabricator. Something I read lately and interesting is poly is much more expensive to make than nylon, for whatever thats worth. I wonder actually when the acrylic thread bandwagon will be a discussion. For what its worth I use only SolarFix thread in my marine canvas fabrication. Its good to be able to keep other thread types for choice locations they might be used. Or wanted!, these may or may not get extreme use but do try. So its good to keep up on the benefits. Thanks you all Floyd
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Artisan 3200 BT Bench top Leather sewing machine
brmax replied to Deryk's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Im curious on the setup of this model description. A question I have; Is there a reduction pulley in this particular mounting. I have not looked any farther than the photo in the post. So my thoughts are that everything is on the bench top. Thanks for any tips Good day Floyd -
You might find some threaded inserts for wood helpful. These types offered in the link are factory installed on my Cobra table, mounting the same part. https://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-wood?url=inserts-for-wood&info_id=40 good day Floyd
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Mike: thanks for some tech opinion. Trying to get a bit of this information in any laymen type way is very helpfull, imho. I have found the requirement to store my own photos and appreciate the forums ability to store “any” photos and links to them, its a wealth of knowledge to see others work. I myself am still in novice mode for linking in an effecient way. The photo task linkage is just one of them things for me. Good day Floyd ps: i hope your not having fast food