Colt W Knight

Same deal with Sewing Machines, By 64 Winchester realized the the cost of production was too high, and the customer wouldn't be able to afford their product, especially with steep competition from the Remington 700. They had to find ways to produce the rifle cheaper. The Ithaca 37 fell to the Remington 870 for the same reason. If Singer was to make a new sewing machine with the same rock solid construction, no one could afford it.

I wasn't expecting that pistola when you said cap n ball shoulder rig.

Older machines were made so well, sewing machine manufacturers use to destroy older models in order to sell newer models. I had an abused 50's model Singer that still sewed like brand new after I cleaned it up.

The company logos I copied a picture from the website, and printed them out to full size. These were low resolution, so I actually had to redraw the outline of the lettering. 1. Print out text 2. I use packing tape to cover the back of the text. 3. Case the leather. 4. Tape the print off to the leather 5. Use a stylus or modeling spoon to trace the outline from the paper to the leather. 6. Remove paper 7. Use a sharp swivel knife to cut all the trace marks 8. I use 2 sizes of smooth bevelers to bevel the letters 9. I use a modeling spoon to smooth out the beveler marks. The initials inside were a simple stamp set. I also made this for the same client, he was actually one of my University professors.

That is 7/8 ounce vegtan lined with lambskin. The blue lambskin is seude

I am now ashamed to call myself a leather worker. Outstanding work. I donated a leather padfolio to the Arizona Cattlemans Conference this summer that I thought was pretty nice, but Mr. Bob Park also made one for the event that put mine to shame.

Absolutely sure the the needle is in the correct position? If they are rotated or not all the way up, they can cause all sorts of hell.

Quick question, why?

Are using a big walking foot machine for this? When I sew really light material( compared to vegtan leather) on my walking foot I can get the bunched effect one of two ways: 1. The stitches are long, and the thread tension pulls the fabric taught. 2. The walking foot doesn't feed the light cloth well because the feet have been ground smooth as to not mar the leather. To fix that, I have to ether set the stitch length real short, or hold my hand flat on the fabric and make sure I keep pressure on the fabric so it feeds through without the bunching.

I have this problem, so now I just leave long ends and saddle stitch with a harness needle.

I am jealous. I have a Consew 206. I never thought I would need to sew leather thicker than 3/8", but it quickly became a reality.

I have messed up hands, and hand stitching a project like a guitar strap or padfolio would leave me sore for days or a week or so. A machine alleviated all that nonsense. I think my hand stitching looked better than my machine stitching, but, I willing to accept that.

I went from hand stitching guitars straps to stitching with my consew. Night and Day difference on the wear and tear on my hands. Plus, what took me 5-6 hours to do by hand changed to 15 minutes. 10 minutes of neurotic testing to make sure the stitches are right, and 5 minutes of actual guitar strap stitching.

Someone with skill with an airbrush could easily do that. Someone like myself, probably not so well. A quality airbrush, set correctly, with someone who knows how to use it, has the capability of pinpoint accuracy. It is an amazing tool, and you can see artists in many genres using them.

I was able to pay for my used leather sewing machine in 3 weeks. I am now saving up for Cobra 4 or cowboy 4500

I use acrylic paint you can buy an any hobby store, and walmart even, comes in a million different colors. Thin it with distilled water, and I have to apply 3-4 coats to get solid coverage. Dries very quickly. Trying to get full coverage with 1-2 coats using a brush applies the paint to thick, and it will just chip/flake off. My experience with an airbrush is that when you set the air pressure just right, thin it just right, and spray it correctly, it dries almost immediately. I am going to start airbrushing leather in the near future, before I just used them on guitars I built.

That, is thoroughly impressive.

Excellent, I was about to build a Case for a tablet, and I like the way you have yours secured.

I have a 206Rb-1, with #138 thread I can sew up to 1/4" leather without a hitch. The machine will sew 3/8" of leather, but it is more finicky. I have tried using #206 and # 277 thread, but the machine was not happy. This machine is super easy to use and diagnose. I have no experience with the Juki

Nice, I am using a glass serving plate right now. I will look for those coasters.

Yup, 20$ piece of glass, and 57$ fee to round the corners.

Thanks yall

I was having that problem until I started cleaning my leather with saddle soap while it was still wet during the casing phase.

I went into a local glass fab store, and they quoted me 77$. I wish I could find a store like yours locally.

All my tools are Tandy, and the bevelers are the worst. I always have to take a modeling spoon to my bevels to even them out. I have some Tandy bevelers I bought during their super cheap stamp sale that I can't even use. I intend on replacing all my regularly used tools with higher quality as I can afford them. I will say, I have the Tandy Pro Series swivel knives, and they are quite nice. The stamps, not so much.