sheathmaker

I don't use any dye. That is Wickett and Craig leather in chestnut (darker brown) and russet (lighter "natural") and black. All are colors pre dyed at the tannery. They carve, tool, oil, and finish just like natural veg. tan. The black is the least desireable when it comes to carving or stamping, but it's passable.

Steve, sometimes I design the welt to act as sort of a cam, but generally the design fit is so specific that just internal tension holds the knife very securely. I don't make any "generic" sheaths, Each one I make is truly a custom for a specific knife and is fitted to that knife. Regarding the price or cost...I'll just say they are a long way from the bargain basement. Ken,this particular one is Massaugua Rattlesnake sometimes call the Prairie Rattler. It is definitely a rattlesnake, but as you can see the patter is not the familiar diamond shape. I think the Massaugua has better color and depth of color than a lot of the diamond backs. Paul

These are the other half of the six sheath order I posted the other day. Left to right in the picture the leather is Wickett and Craig in color chestnut, chestnut, and russet. No dyes were used. The inlays are Massaugua Rattlesnake (Prairie Rattler), Anteater, and Black Alligator. Paul

These are the first three of a six sheath order headed to Florida. I'll knock out the rest tomorrow and mail 'em Monday. Left to right...Ostrich Knee (or front of leg)..... Ostrich Leg.......... Baby Sting Ray Paul

Doug, my mailing address is at the bottom of this post in blue.. Priority mailing will run about $6.00 and you can have the buckles with my compliments. I will be needing an address to mail them to. Paul

Doug, the Fast buckle was the brain child of an old freind of mine, (and Bruce too), Mr. Ben Veach. The Veach family goes back a long way in the saddle business. Monroe Veach (Ben's dad) shipped a sizeable number of saddles from his Trenton, MO shop.. But I digress....While Bruce is correct, that the Fast Buckles are no longer generally available, I just happen to have a 3" set sitting on my desk as I write this and if they would be of any help to you I would be very glad to get them to you. My email is pfl@cebridge.net Paul

I have to agree with everyone so far that garments or other wearables should have no finish. I do line all my knife sheaths with deer skin and in that case the exposed deer skin gets the same finish as the rest of the sheath with one exception. NO NEATSFOOT OIL. It does get TanKote and Neatlac. This applies only to the deer skin that shows outside the sheath. Paul

Jim had it at the Spirit of Steel Knife Show in Grapevine, TX last September. It represents fantastic carving talent and is 3D in the style of Robert Baird's "Anastasi Ruins" and other pieces he had done like that. It is what it is and that's way to fragile to be more than a static knife sheath, but it is really something to behold. I'm with Romey.......stitching, not so much. Paul

One source for the Sam Browne stud or button is Tandy/Leather Factory. Stock number is 1309-01 and 1309-02 and you will need the special little anvil to set them easily stock number 8112-00. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...=230&Page=4 Paul

That is a diamond rod sharpener. Paul

Yes I do, Randy. I do them pretty much the same as inlays in boot tops. In addition, I run the top piece of the sheath (block cut) through the hand crank splitter to about 40/60 and then cut my inlay window and do the installation and stitching and then I Barge the original pieces back together, and then cut out the pattern. This makes for neat edges and close inlays. I also skive the soft deer skin lining back from the seam edge before final assembly of the sheath so it won't interfere with the final edge finish. Paul

Ken, that "little extra touch" you refer to is the visible part of a full deer skin lining. It's stitched at the lip, grain to grain and then rolled back over the top and into the inside of the sheath. Paul

Yeah Ken, you must have posted as I was frantically tyring to get the right picture posted. The correct one is posted now. Paul

This one headed for Oregon on the 2nd of January. The leather is Wickett and Craig "chestnut" skirting 7/8 oz with neatsfoot oil only...no dyes. Inlay is black alligator. Deer skin lining is black. Finished with TanKote and NeatLac. Smaller stitching is on Artisan 797AB LTHR and the larger stitches are the work of the Artisan Toro 4000. Paul

The link below will take you to the leather sewing machines sub forum. There is a wealth of information for you there. My own personal preference is Artisan Brand machines, but I am plenty biased both by experience with the machines and freindship with the owner and his staff. http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=50 I have no real experince with fur, so I can't help you much there. Paul

Johanna is exactly right. It would take months (if ever) to dry out a wrapped garment to any appreciable degree, and my vote would go with (if ever). Go ahead and wrap it have a very MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! Paul

The NgraveR company (link below) has copy righted plastic scroll scroll templates similar to CraftAids meant for the engraving trade, but they may be useful for your purpose as well. They have templates 1, 2, and 3 with many scroll sizes and design bases on each template. I got the nr. 2 back when I had an interest in engraving. They are called ScrollMasterTemplates and if you can't find them on the web site you might just give them a call. They also have the book by Ron referenced in Twister's post above. "Drawing and Understanding Scrolls" http://www.ngraver.com/book.htm Paul

It is a good idea to block cut the front cover pattern over size all directions by 1/4 inch or more. Glue up the lining and apply. Then cut the exact pattern size. This way you have nice, neat matched up edges. Paul

Very first class all the way. Inlay work is spectacular.......and then some. Paul

Bruce, add me to the list of 100% Artisan. I've had my two machines 4 and 5 years (Toro 4000 and 797ABLTHR) of trouble free absolute great service. The customer service Artisan provides is the very best and the fact that their products are so trouble free is even greater. Add to that the fact that Jerry and company are always looking to develope new products and staying ahead of the curve. Edited to add: I am biased also.............but with good reason. Paul

In the interest of matching up what has already been done on the bag, I'd lace the D ring leathers on the bag but also might use a single double cap rivet for extra security. Ohio Travel Bag has a large selection fo trigger type snaps made especially for hand bags. They are much smaller and would probably look better over all than the tack and harness trigger snaps. In any case be sure to use swivel type. Paul

I have a limited quantity (actually quite a few) of this type clip available. I puchased the entire remaining stock that Wm Henry had. pfl@cebridge.net Paul

My maker's stamp is more the traditonal shape and style. The brand in the middle is my first brand and it was registered in Dona Ana County New Mexico in 1953. I used just the brand as a maker's mark for quite some time/ Paul

Larry, you set the standard for spur straps. Paul

Be realistic and estimate how long the vest will take to make. You will have practically no material cost, but if you did that would have to be figured in a cost plus 20%. You have to recover the waste because you paid for it in the full side. My shop price is $25.00 per hour, plus material and that is the minimum. I frequently charge more than that. Having said all that, my shop is fully equipped with a couple of sewing machines and a lot of other time saving equipment so I can accomplish quite a bit in that $25.00 hour. If you are just starting out you may have to lower the hourly rate to compensate for lack of speed and experience, but I can tell you if I was making the vest as you described it would be not less than $300 and probably more. Paul