sheathmaker

Sandy is 10 years and one day older than I am so he will be 93 on April 16th this year. He is no longer doing commissioned work and while he has slowed down, he's still active and makes the semi local knife makers round ups around his home turf. I call him every year on his birthday and we wish each other Happy Birth Day. He's still in Blairsville, Ga. Email me if you want his contact information. pfl@cebridge.net Paul Long (sheathmaker)

I apply it the same way Bob does, but if you ever do have an occasion to need to thin some, common hardware store Lacquer Thinner will get the job done, and the ratio is whatever pleases you. Paul

Any machine that requires the constant use of one of your arms in order to operate will become a real pain sooner if not later. There are times when you absolutely need both hands to manipulate the leather being sewn and unless you have three arms that could be a major problem. I appreciate your concerns on noise, but unless you are just hyper sensitive I think you'll find the modern servo motor machines are not all that noisy. Another point to consider is the price. $1495 for a manually operated machine is a MAJOR step toward the price of a 441 clone type machine. Even more major if at some point in the near future you decide the manual machine isn't quite what you thought it would be and decide to upgrade to a motorized machine. I think you owe it to yourself to reconsider the 441 clone machines and specifically have a discussion with Steve or David at Leather Machine Co. (Cobra brand). They will advise you and try to work with you regarding product and pricing and their after the sale customer service is the best I've ever experienced. They are also supporters of this site. I've traveled both roads and I speak from experience. http://www.leathermachineco.com Paul

I met Ray once and I was a good friend of Bob Dellis who was also closely associated with Ray years ago. I believe Bob learned a lot from Ray. If my memory is correct they both were carving for a famous saddle maker in Arizona at the time, and were either room mates or stayed at the same boarding house. Their styles are very similar, but I think Ray came fist so Bob probably learned from him. Bob is deceased, and I don't know about Ray. Most of their work was in fact free hand although Bob did use "tap off" flowers on a lot of his Sheridan style work. The free hand scrolls on the back of the belt was kind of a trademark for both of them. They both used a lot of tri color technique using the natural leather color, under a resist and oil and one dye producing three distinct shades on the belt according to the pattern. As to the current worth of Ray's work, I have (a few years ago) seen a few of his belts for sale at Clint Orms Silver Smiths shop selling in the neighborhood of $800 to $900 to go with his very high quality and high dollar custom buckle sets. Depending on condition being like new, your belt could be quite valuable to the right person. That's all….Iv'e strained my memory. Paul

Go2tex Questions. Do you still have this for sale as of 12/26/14 Are you sure it's brown? Photos look like Chestnut. What is the weight in ounces? Give me a call 830 367 5536 I'm in Kerrville, so close enough to drive down and pick it up for Cash. Paul

Beautifully designed and executed. Attention to detail and overall artistic work is some of the best I've seen. Paul

I have been a Tandy customer for various supplies and some leather since 1951. Last Monday will mark my last purchase from Tandy for exactly the reasons outlined above. I have been on the very best price level for years and I was shocked to find Feibing's TanKote @ over $20 quart, Barge Contact Cement $62 gallon, and the Sam Browne button washers at $1.80 each and only available in single pack packaging. I usually buy ten dozen at a trip in the master packs of one dozen. So any way the inflated prices and changes to business methods is enough for me to say it's been fun for many years but now it's over. Paul

I will second JohnOK's post word for word. If you have the mechanical knowledge and expertise to set it up for your type sewing then it could be a good deal , albeit potential warranty issues could be a major pain should any arise. These are not tuned up to your specs at the factory. Steve and David at Cobra are my choice. Paul

I had an error in Josh's email address above. It's josh@artknifeandtool.com Paul

I just returned from the Blade Show in Atlanta, and while there I met a young man, Josh Fields who makes some of the very best round knives, etc. that I have ever seen. I already have six round knives hanging above my bench and certainly did not "need" another, but the knives this young man makes just kind of forced me to make room for yet another. They are 01 steel, heat treated to pefection and have flawless fit and finish…..and as a bonus they really perform like they are supposed to!!! Josh can be reached at josh@artkniifeand tool.com or 817 253 4497 These knives really are "that good" Paul

"ZP Custom Leather", or "Zayne Petty Custom Leather". I have used "PFL Leather and Tack" and currently I use "Paul Long Custom Leather" From that point the quality of your product and service defines you…..and the growth of your trade. Paul

Here is one I designed and made for my Bond. Well, it won't let me upload the photos. Email me and I'll get them to you that way. Email is below in sig line.

This post pretty well sums up my opinion. The picture does not take in reality of the situation. In theory it's right, in actual day to day fact it is not. Take the time to pull a stitch line done on a machine. It does not just unravel. Paul

You should have! Great show pricing. I picked up a new Cobra 18 to replace my Artisan 797AB. I got a couple of those Caiman skins mentioned above, as well as quite a lot of various exotics from Jerry Van Amburg. Placed a nice order with Wickett & Craig, which arrived here yesterday. I was a bit disappointed that Wayne Jueschke was not there this year, as I always find a new stamp or two from him. Ruby Leather had some good prices (for this day and time) on Barge cement and thinner so I hauled a few gallons home. Also ran into "WyoSheen"by the gallon at Bob Douglas' spread and eliminated the hazardous fee to ship that home. I did get a really nice 1/8" beader blade for swivel knife from Barry King and had a good visit with Bob Beard. This was my fifteenth or so attendance. It's well worth the expense to make the trip. Paul

I've been working leather, since 1951, everything from belts and key fobs to intricate saddles and everything in between. Some hand cut, some clicked, some hand sewn and now most machine stitched. I'll put my machine work up against anyone's hand work for durability, looks and overall quality. I believe from my personal experience that's there isn't 10 cents difference between the two......IF the person doing each discipline KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING. It's not the method, it's the expertise of the individual doing the method that makes the difference. Anyone who has picked machine stitches from an old saddle skirt to put on new shearling can attest machine stitch holds just as well and just as long as hand saddle stitched. As far as superior overall quality due to the hand worker taking more time or what ever.....well, that's just BS. I refer you back to my first paragraph. This goes back to work ethic and pride of accomplishment and protecting a good reputation. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Paul

$1000 would be my limit. Any thing beyond that I would be considering Cobra, servo motor and a lot more ability to produce. Paul

Hey, Rich be sure and look me up. I will be there Friday and Saturday morning as well.. Looks like you are going to have a truck load going home. Good for you! You are going to love that Class 14 splitter. I thought about a clicker, but I don't do enough repetitive work to justify. I planning to bring a class 18 home also, replacing the Artisan 797AB after about 12 very productive and trouble free years. See you there! Paul

Use a bit of the prescribed thinner for your brand of contact cement. ie for Barge, I use Barge thinner. Put some thinner on a paper towel and carefully, and gently wipe the affected area picking up some of the excess with each stroke, and changing position on the paper towel frequently. Most of the time this will evaporate without leaving any kind of mark, but if it does leave a light stain, that goes away when you do the Neatsfoot oil or similar finish. Paul

My long time Friend and mentor Don Atkinson, now deceased, taught me to make tap offs by carving the pattern, swivel knife only then use common ordinary hardware store variety SHELAC from the paint dept. NO BAKING It hardens the leather and seals it at the same time. I have belt pattern tap offs I made 15 years ago still useable today. We also used this procedure for saddles fenders and other saddle parts that had right/left. Carve one side and before tooling it "tap off" on the opposing fender or piece. Paul

Google is your friend. Just type "Western Stirrup Styles" in the Google search box and hang on! Many, many hits with tons of information. Good Luck! Paul

It has been quite a while since I made any tack, but I used to make a lot. Headstalls and bridles I used to two plies of 7/8 cemented together and machine stitched, and the same for the "show" breast collars. That gives you a 16 oz. equivalent which is plenty stout with top grain both in and out. You will have to calculate the square footage by figuring the length and width or your various pattern pieces and go from there. 5/6 oz is WAY too light in my opinion. Paul

Most of a shark skin is useable at least for something. I have very little waste from my shark skins. A really good source for Shark skins is Van Amburg Leathers, Jerry Van Amburg ay 208 785 0800. A good guy to do business with. Paul

Run, do not walk, but run to your phone and call my friend Jerry Van Amburg of Van Amburg leathers at 208 785 0800. That's in Blackfoot Idaho. Jerry has been my go to guy for exotics for a very long time. Straight shooter, no BS. Shark has been kind of on the hard to get list lately, but Jerry just made a deal on some smaller stuff which should be just about ideal for your use. Good luck! Paul

I would hesitate to advise you or appraise, because I would be interested in obtaining them. Once you decide to sell and settle on a price, I would appreciate it if you could contact me by email pfl@cebridge.net or by phone at 830 367 5536. Thank you. Paul

A product I have found that is near perfect for your permanent patterns is the sheet PVC that is used by custom sign making companies. (it's the same stuff the "no trespassing", "for sale" signs are made of that you find in hardware and other stores.) It's pure blank white, you can write or draw on it (and erase), tough enough to last forever, and thin enough to cut easily with scissors or a # 11 Exacto blade. It comes from their suppliers in 4'X 8'sheets, and is not overly expensive. Paul