sheathmaker

Well, I guess so far I'm the elder of the bunch. Will be 85 in April this year. @Ferg I guess you're the closest. One thing I can say for sure is "gettin' old is NOT for SISSIES!" Paul

@Dun, Long term storage and any effect any leather has on the contents stored therein depends on the average temperature and relative humidity at the location. In a very warm and or damp climate, it would probably be prudent to store your knives/guns/other metal items outside their sheathe or holster. I find that I have much more trouble with Verdis Gris, (that green crap on Brass and Nickel), but that seems to happen just as frequently in Veg Tan as Chrome Tan. In any case if you have any reason to believe the sheath or holster might have been wet or even damp remove the knife or gun and make sure it has dried thoroughly before any subsequent use. Paul

@Rossr, I answered your private message. I specialize in high quality, relatively expensive knife sheaths which are made for knives from $1000 to $20,000 and are now scattered all over the world I am neither advocating for or against Chrome Tanned leather. I have used Chrome Tanned ( and possibly other tanning) Deer skin for over 20 years for lining my knife sheaths. I have also used it for personal items. In all that time I have never had, nor heard of a problem in any of my work attributable to Chrome Tanned Deer skin or other Chrome tanned leathers Paul Long

I can't really see the photo well at all , but they look like "D" rings and your verbal description seems to confirm this. These would be very usual in a saddle or harness shop, in various different sizes and the fact that you have boxes of them is not uncommon either for that type shop. Paul

My handle here is "sheathmaker", and is a natural because I specialize in custom knife sheaths. I have few professionally made maker's marks, but My daughter-in-law made the beautiful piece shown below that I use on my table at shows which is an exact representation of my maker's mark. Paul

Stetson's answer is correct and a very good one. If you extend your welt about 1/2" beyond the junction point of the V and then skive down to zero it will completely fill the void when you fold it and glue it up for final finishing. Paul

You are right. The stamping would and does look more like scales and better with the legs of the mule foot just touching the crown of the ones below

I've got quite a bit crammed into and 8'X20' space. It only really shows one end of the shop Paul

I have swivel knives made by Robert Beard, Barry King, and Leather Wranglers (Albuquerque, NM). They are all high quality and perfect in every way for me. Oh, and fairly expensive, but worth it every penny for me. With regard to blades, it depends on what you are doing....for 99.9% of my work I prefer a 3/8" straight blade. I have a couple of hair blades and a couple of bead blades that I keep in cheaper swivel knives. Sooner or later you will want a really good (read more expensive) knife, so you might as well bite the bullet and get it first. My earlier , cheaper knives are the ones I use for the hair blades and bead blades. Good Luck Paul

Not a tough question at all for me. Any time I get a tool with a domed top I immediately grind it flat. I found out many years ago that a domed top is very susceptible to glancing mis-strikes and the results of that are usually not good.......so "Grind 'em if you got 'em. Paul

Texas Custom Dies......they have a rotating banner ad at the top of this forum and they support this site.....and they are as good as it gets! http://www.texascustomdies.com/index.php Paul

....and that is the beauty of using rubber cement. It will rub off any area where it is not supposed to show with just your finger, but as stated it's far from permanent. Paul

Hey Trav, the Boot and Saddle Makers Round Up is a very good semi small show in Wichita Falls Texas in early October each year. Most of the same vendors as Sheridan, and Prescott. I've made it every year for about the last twenty years in all of its previous locations. A whole lot of leather vendors, 3 or 4 sewing machine vendors including Cobra and Cowboy, custom tool vendors, Barry King, Robert Beard and several other new guys. Weaver Leather, Tandy/LF, Wickett&Craig, Herman Oak and a lot of independent vendors. Van Amburg leathers for your exotics, along with The Ostrich Market. All in all about 75 top vendors and worth the trip for me each year. Its a two day show and I stay for both days and spend a ton. You and Souther Cross need to get your passports in order and come on over. Paul

1. There's your first mistake. If you are going to use Neatsfoot or any other oil it should go on first and be allowed to level. The Super Sheen used first acts as a resist and won't allow the oil to penetrate properly and cause the "goo" you experienced. 2. Never a good idea to put leather in an oven, PERIOD. Neatsfoot Oil should be used very sparingly applied to the grain side only. It will penetrate all the way through to the flesh side as it levels out, therefor applying to the flesh side is not necessary and should not be done, except in very rare and unusual cases. In every case each subsequent top coat (different product) should only be applied after the previous coat is completely dry or has leveled out. The foregoing is my personal opinion based on my experience and others may differ. Paul

Hey Trav, The 20 is so new to me that I don't know anything about it, however the 18 will do what you have described just fine and will also handle inlay work nicely. As you know the 18 is what I use and you've seen the work it produces. Paul

I have secured many, many belt tips like yours with epoxy. I use JB Weld brand, the 5 minute variety. Never had one come off, but I have taken a few off and it was difficult. I don't think just losing the tip would be a factor to be concerned about. Paul

Don't want to beat a dead horse, but if you did everything you saId and are still getting the bobbin pulled up like on pass 6, then there has to be a bind somewhere in the thread track from spool to needle. A silly question, but are you sure you threaded the machine correctly? What you are experiencing is quite common with the thread track from spool to needle hanging up on a screw, or an unintentional extra wrap around the secondary tension on the way to the take up arm, or a little bit of bind going through the last "screw" loop or the last hole before the needle. I have had similar temporary problems, but they all traced back to pilot error and a bind somewhere in the thread track. I know it's frustrating. I'd give Steve a call and see what he might suggest. Good Luck Paul

It appears that your blade has been poorly sharpened in the past, with both ends rounded slightly. The blade should be straight across end to end. it should either be replaced with a new blade or re-profiled and sharpened by a competent sharpening professional. (if that competent professional is you.....have at it!) Paul

I would suggest, (if you have not already) you check out Australian stock saddles. pretty much like the western saddles, but no horn. Paul

I solved this problem at my local sign making shop. They use thin PVC stock for making their signs such as you see for "No Trespassing", "No Hunting", "For Sale", etc. It cuts easily and literally lasts forever as a template/pattern. I bought a 4X8 foot sheet and and that also lasts a very long time. While it costs more for the 4X8 it's a lot less expensive per square foot than buying the ready made signs at the hardware store. Paul

Do yourself a favor and get on the phone to Leather Machine Co. and then hop in your truck or van and make the very short drive to pick up your brand new , in warranty machines set up and tuned perfectly and enjoy years of trouble free use. If you are doing enough volume to warrant the machines in the first place, they should pay for themselves in saved time and quality very shortly.......and Yes, I practice what I preach, I have three machines from them and have had for four years. They are a great company and have a great track record for excellent after the sale service. Paul

nealverde found me, but for the benefit of others who may need or want the clips. Paul Long 830 367 5536 or pfl@cebridge.net. Thanks. Paul

Those wallets you show could be made from two layers of Kid skin which comes in just about any color you can imagine. You simply cement flesh to flesh with Black on the inside and whatever color on the outside and then cut out your patten. Top grain both inside and outside and will be about 2/3 oz total thickness. His wallets appear to be clicker cut. Getting the custom made rubber bands will probably be a bigger problem. Good Luck Paul

Very interesting, Martyn. Would you happen to have an eBay link, or vendor eBay name? Thanks in advance. Paul.

This is what I do, but to each his own. I buy Wickett&Craig utility grade saddle skirting and have it split to 7/8 oz. I buy five colors. When the sides arrive I "square up the side", (Cut of the belly leather) and run it through My Cobra 14 splitter taking it down to about 2 OZ., which I then use for linings my custom sheaths etc. I have found the top grain of belly leather is for the most part equal to the top grain anywhere else on the side. This means I no longer have to have additional sides split to 2/3OZ. so my overall inventory of leather has gone to about half, and I don't have trash cans full of belly leather. It works fine for me, you are welcome to try it too! Paul