sheathmaker

I've been at this leather thing quite a while, and as such I've done business with Tandy, and then Leather Factory , and the Tandy/Leather Factory. I have been on their lowest pricing level for many years. Today I had the rare occasion to visit their store in San Antonio, Tx. and was amazed at the prices they have come up with. Even at my advantageous level the prices are pretty close to ridiculous. $27.00 for a quart of Feibings Pro Oil Dye, $24.00 for a dozen Black Sam Browne Studs, and $1.80 for ten wool daubers. $52.80 total. Not so very long ago that same small selection would have cost $13.00, $6.00 and $.80 total $19.80. I realize that EVERYTHING is overpriced now, but this much of an increase just seems a little excessive and does cause me to agree more with the original poster of this thread. Paul

Yes, those dies you referenced are expensive, but take a look at the hole punches and slots. Hole punches run from about $6 to $8 each and slots can be as much as $25 to $40 each depending on size and that is in addition to the regular cost of your die based on length around and complexity. Those dies are STILL expensive though, even considering the holes and slots. Yes, Texas Custom Dies is still open and running. I just checked their web site and found everything normal. Paul

I am interested in your Lucris clicker. I tried calling the number listed in your link and got only a fast busy signal for several tries. Good luck for both of us. I live close to Ingram, Tx so we are pretty close. See my number below. Paul

For your future consideration Wickett & Craig will honor as little as a one side order, and they do have a split to order service, so you can buy anything you want and have it split to any thickness you desire. I use 7/8 and 2/3 in four colors, Russet, Chestnut, Brown and Black. All the colors carve and tool beautifully. I buy the utility grade saddle skirting and have been a repeat customer for about 20 to 30 sides a year for about 8 years. I formerly used Herman Oak, but like the W&C just as well with the added advantage of the drum dyed colors. What I am not sure of is if they ship to Australia, but it would be worth an email to find out I think. Paul

I went to the Lucris web site and it is a fountain of non information. I'd like to know the approximate cost of the press......no indication of that on the site. I guess the only way to find out the information is to call one of the two reps here in the U.S. Paul

I will need your email address to honor your request. Please!, anyone interested in clips use my Phone or email address found below in my sig line. Also if I am to email information to you, please share your email address. Thanks. Paul

Yes, I can email you a Photo of uninstalled clips. I would have posted it, but the software here said the file was too large. I will also give you pricing information via return email. Paul pfl@cebridge.net

I have been trying to source these clips for about the last five years with little success, so I finally decided to become the source. I have a good quantity on hand and "there's more where that came from". If you have a need, give me a call or email. Paul

I have a fair quantity of the Weaver "green" (Mentioned above) that I will probably never ever use. If any of you are in a bind for some, give me a call. Paul

Ingle Gun Leather: At your experience level, you already know the value of a complete paper pattern for everything you make prior to cutting the leather. The DVDs Texas Jack mentioned above go into great detail on how to make a pattern for a given knife and have it fit properly the first time through, along with everything else involved from start to finish on a sheath. My DVDs are geared more toward a maker who have sewing machine capability, While Chuck Burrows offering are more for the hand sewer. I have three DVDs out now. First is Basic Pouch Sheath, the second is Advanced Blade Sheaths, and the third is a compilation of time saving tips and techniques concerning sheath making in general. Google is your friend. Try Paul Long Sheath Making DVDs and it should take you to Chris Crawford Knives. Chris is the producer and they can be obtained there. Also in response to your inquiry above. Yes, it is ALWAYS best to have the customer's knife in hand when making a sheath. I insist upon it if I am to do the work. Yes, the customers pays the postage both ways. I have several thousand sheaths out there with out a hiccup yet. Paul

I have to second Bob's endorsement of Wayne's stamps, particularly the geometrics. Extremely sharp impressions and they are made to square tolerances you would not believe. They cost more than your limit, but they are worth every Penny, and in the long run they are really less than the cheaper stuff due to quality of workmanship. (your work and Wayne's) Paul

I haven't ever tried this, but logic says it might work well so it might be worth a try. One of the ingredients in Barge cement is Toluene. There is a product available at most Hardware or Paint stores call "Tulene" It is a generic thinner and the chemical make up suggests it would do the trick. Toluene is also one of the major ingredients in Barge Thinner. Paul

Chef, it was an Artisan 4000 and in near perfect shape, and it now lives with "Leatherman" (from Blade Forums). Steve was with Artisan most of the time I owned the 4000, and I bought the Cobra because of Steve and not because of the machine, although it truly is a "dream machine". Paul

I rolled a new Cobra 4 Stitcher into the shop about 60 days ago and it has given me just what I expected....perfect service. Then about 30 days ago I placed a new Cobra 14 in my shop. It's not a sewing machine, but it is the best motorized splitter I've ever come across (that would fit into my stop). It replaced a Landis 30 hand crank splitter and that extra 8 or 9 inches of split capacity is just plain awesome. I will be able to reduce my leather inventory considerably, because I won't have to buy pre split sides at 2/3 oz. at nearly the rate I used to. I can spit belly, and other less desirable pieces that have a good top grain into sizes that I could not handle on the Landis. Take a look at the Cobra 14 on Steve's web site. Paul

Plus one for Steve and for David also. These guys are the epitome of customer service and care and I have been fortunate to count them among my friends for several years. I have so far replaced two of my machines with Cobra equipment and have one flat bed machine to go. They are at the top of their game with way better than top notch equipment. Paul

I have owned two of the Juki clones (Artisan 4000 and now the Cobra 4). The Cobra has the newer servo motor, while my Artisan operated with a clutch motor. That is/was the major difference in my two. They both sewed flawlessly and handled really heavy duty projects easily. While I have never owned or operated the Cowboy brand, I have tried it at the Wichita Falls, TX trade show and for me all three machines are pretty much the same. That means the tie breaker is the representative who in your mind has the best support and after the sale service.........For me that was Steve and David at Cobra. They also happened to be with Artisan when I originally bought there 12 years ago. I have had flawless service from those guys, hence my loyalty to their brand. Paul

Try folding a paper into quarters (square quarters), draw your curved line on one quarter and then trace it onto the other side. You can have as many peaks as you like. When you unfold it after tracing there your, a perfectly centered and balance curve with peaks. You can then make a mire sturdy pattern from manila folder or light cardboard. Paul

Renegade, how about the heat treat on these cutters, or are they even heat treated at all Ask your maker about the RC number (hardness) after treatment. This will certainly have a bearing on how well it holds that cutting edge. Thanks. Paul

Jerry, I have noticed lately that some of the bonded nylon thread (207) I get seems a little stiff and tries to bind coming through the secondary tension on my Artisan 4000, and also on my new Cobra 4. This happens primarily with Black and to a lesser degree with the darker Browns. This will have an effect on the tension. I never had the problem with Rice Thread when they were still in business. I'm thinking it has to do with the bonding agent used on the thread, but that's just conjecture on my part. I'm not even close to an expert on threads, in fact it would be stretching a point to even say I qualify as a novice so I would appreciate some information from those more knowledgable as well. Is it possible to even find non bonded nylon or poly thread and if so will it do pretty much the same job as the bonded goods with regard to tensile strength and fraying etc.? It seems the Rice thread with which I had no problems regardless of color was much softer than the currently available threads and it was marked bonded as well. Also on the machines mentioned, would left or right twist be a factor at all. (None of my threads are marked with either left or right, by the way) Wish I could be of more help, but sounds like at least two of us have noticed a problem. Paul

Experience is truly a great teacher. I agree with you on the necessity and the convenience of two machines for multiple weight leather work. The heavier Artisans and the Cobra (class 4 etc) heavy stitchers are great of the thicker work, but a smaller flat bed machine is by far better for the 3/8" and under work. Smaller needles, lighter thread and better and more professional look all around. All my knife sheaths have work by both machines. Paul

I picked up my brand spankin' new Cobra Class 4 from Steve and Dave at the Boot and Saddle Maker's Trade Show in Wichita Falls, Texas Saturday. It is replacing a Toro 4000 by Artisan that I have had since that model was the only heavy stitcher Jerry had....way before the 3000, 3200 etc. There will be a very short learning curve getting used to the servo motor instead of the clutch motor but otherwise it seems very familiar. I also got my name in line for the new 14" class 14 splitter. Anticipated delivery on those is about the first week in November. I saw and used the floor models at the show and it's a fine piece of equipment. They come both motorized and hand crank. Then early next year I plan on replacing my flat bed machine, (Artisan 797ABLTHR) with a similar Cobra model, and I should be set again for a very long time. One quick word of praise for Steve and Dave of Cobra. It would be very hard to over emphasize the quality of their customer service and SUPPORT. That's reason enough to think Cobra, but the machines are pretty great too.! Paul

My fist sewing machine was a Boss.....serial number 3, brand spankin' new. It was about $1000 or $1100. Tom Tippman said it was the first they actually sold. Numbers 1 and 2 were supposedly used up in R&D. It was a cast iron model and didn't even have the plastic back cover, but they sent one a few weeks later after it was developed. I used that little Boss for about three years until I up graded to a Toro 4000, the 2000 and 3000 had not yet been developed. Yep! I paid about $4500 for that 4000, but it has paid for itself many many times since. I could do anything I wanted on the Boss and the same was/is true for the 4000, so I reluctantly sold the little Boss for within $100 of what I paid for it after about 3 or so years use. I wish I still had it......not enough to buy another one of the new aluminum models. but I still find places where it would be handy because it was so portable. If I could get a really good shape cast iron model now for a song, I would probably buy it. It was an excellent choice for me for the first machine and it taught me a lot in preparation for stepping up to the powered machines. Paul

Thanks, TR and K-Man for the information. Now to see if I can duplicate the item here in the USA. Does it happen to have a brand name displayed anywhere on the item? Paul

Neat looking press. How about some specs and buying information, source etc., please. Paul

Still available? Average size? Photos available?? My email: pfl@cebridge.net Yes I'm interested. Paul