sheathmaker

I would recommend that you semi finish the edge (make sure it's flat smooth and even) before you use the stitch groover. Then allow and minimum of 1/4" to 5/16" from the edge for your goove line. This same spacing looks good from the stich line to the border of the tooled area ( you have to estimate this as the tooling will have been long finished by the time you glue up final assembly). Then do the final edge finish and you have nice generous borders on both side of the stitch. Paul

It's really good to know you are NOT a "one trick pony" and can do other things well.....not just holsters. I kept real quiet on the other thread, but it torques my jaw pretty good to have some one go off on another for anything like that. I tried real hard to think of anything made in the last hundred years or so that ANYONE can take full credit for inventing. Everything you or I do has elements of someone else's idea or design in it somewhere, plus the fact that there is so much business out there to be had that all of us put together can't keep up with it. So.....post anything you want to, any time you want to, including your fine holsters. I for one will enjoy looking at them. Paul

Look at it agian. When in use the horse would be up side down. Paul

If you are looking for something that will teach you how to make holsters and design your own patterns, then Al Stohlman's "How to Make Holsters" is very hard to beat. It's available 365 days a year from Tandy/Leather Factory. It is well written and full of illustrations as well as some of the more common patterns (for th time it was published). Paul

That's a Bob Beard pebble grain tool. It's one of the four tool set. Some of the handiest tools on the bench for putting "something" where nothing else looks right. Paul

John the burnishing is multi step but it's sure not a secret. When the sheath has been stitched and is finished as far as construction is conerned I take it to my shoe finisher or a belt sander and level the edge with first 50 grit and then 100 grit sanding wheels. Then I get the whole thing fairly damp using a spray bottle with plain tap water. Wait a couple of minutes and then edge with a #2 edger (Weaver Master Tools). Edging damp is the first mini step to burnishing. Next is to apply white saddle soap and water and hand burnish using a piece of an old bed sheet. At this point I "flash" dry the sheath with a hair dryer and this has nothing to do with the burnishing, but it does harden the leather up just right for a functioning sheath or holster. Then back to the sander and just burnish lightly with a worn 100 grit wheel. When I'm satisfied with the smoothness I hand burnish with gum tragicanth and then apply Feibing's Profession Oil dye if the edge needs color. Then it's on to the neatsfoot and final finishes. On many of my sheaths I put the final touch around the edge with a #5 creaser during the "damp" phase and you may have been referring to that also. Paul

Here's one I worked up for a client. He wanted the sheath to reflect the engraving on the guard. Paul

Bruce, I first met Ben and Ben Jr. when he moved here to Kerrville, in the late 80's. He built my first really good cutting saddle on a Dina Special tree by Ritter and is now Bowden. My daughter is still riding that saddle. I had heard Brackney had closed ,but had not heard that Ben sold the rights to the buckels. I wonder if Hadlock and Fox were the buyers? I guess Jr. is still building a saddle or two out at the farm. I have one pair of 3" buckles left and you are welcome to them if you have any use for them. Paul

Bruce and All: Have any of you tried or heard of the Ben Veach Fast Buckle? All one piece, no moving parts, stainless steel, WILL last a life time and then be transferred to a live person's saddle for another life time of work. They are a little more expensive than the Blevins types and other knock offs of Blevins but man, are they ever worth it. I started using them about five years ago I guess and have not put anything on a saddle new or used since. When I was doing some saddle repair I repleced whatever was there with Veach every time, and, of course they went on all the new saddles. I don't have any recent contact information on Ben or his son Ben Jr. but it would be worth a goodle trip to find them. I'll give it a try and come back here. Paul

Try this, it works for me. After the holster is molded completely if that be the case, using a spray bottle with water get the whole holster fairly damp then "flash" dry it with a hair dryer. The result will be a much stiffer holster ready for oil and final finish. Also works well for knife sheaths. Paul

I'll add my endorsement to Jerry Van Amburg as well. Paul

Just a quick complete agreement with everything good said about Artisan. I've had the 797AB and Toro 4000 for going on five trouble free years. I can't say enough good about them and the people you'd be working with. Paul

I cannot access member profiles including my own. I get an "Internet Explorer cannot display this page" white balnk screen. I think I'm a member in good standing and don't know why it would be blocked. I do remember readin something similar to this a while back. Paul

Up until about three weeks ago, I used the Tippmann 12"X12" 7 ton pneumatic clicker for about three years. It performed flawlessly, and I literally clicked thousands of items with it. I think full retail on them is about 1495.00 now but I only paid 1100.00 for mine and passed it on to a saddle maker who was glad to get it for 1000.00. That wasn't a bad three year "rental" for a real time saver and money producer. I'd surely recommend that anyone wanting a clicker to investigate the Tippmann pneumatic choices, along with your other selections. Paul

Well, I retired from the real world of employment at 62 and I'm about to become 75. When I retired I, at my wife of 51 years suggestion, I created a really well equipped shop to help me devote time to my "hobby" of leather craft. I've made just about everything from saddles and horse tack to chaps and chinks, and of course belts, purses, picture frames etc. etc. etc.ad nauseum. About three years ago I started making custom sheaths for a knife maker and that has grown to about 26 custom knife makers and I turn out between 350 and 500 custom sheaths a year going nation wide and international. Since my shop is right here at my home I work from about 10:AM to whenever I decide to quit for the day, but never less than about 8 hours and that generally is a 7 day week. Sounds like quite a lot for an old guy, but I love every minute of it and consequently I don't feel like I'm working at all. I also attend all the major knife shows in the nation and that's good for a continuing flow of orders. My "retirement" is truly blessed because I do every day just whatever I want to, and of course, that's "playing" in my shop. Paul

I use Wickett and Craig almost exclusively. Compaired to their Russet (natural) which carves, tools and oils beautifully, the Chestnut dyed is next best with very little difference in the properties. The Black, on the other hand, does not tool or carve as well and it is hard to see tooling on black. It also does not case quite as well. I believe this is probably due to the chemical makeup of black due vs. the brown tone dyes. I have noticed with Feibing's Professional Oil Dye that the Browns do not make the wool swabs I use hard when the dye dries out, but the back causes them to get rock hard. I have also noticed that black dye will make leather stiffer than the brown tones. In summation, Russet and Chestnut good to go, Black not so much. Paul

Great post! good for the inexperienced and experienced alike. Thanks, Art. Paul

Ghost: I am advanced enough in age that I have no desire to make my own tools.......BUT, I sure would be interested in getting a few from you if you decide to go commercial on the venture. If you are interested, please contact me privately and we'll hash it out. thanks. Paul

Thanks, Dave. Those are the most clear instructions I've read on the subject. I printed them out and they have become part of my personal "how do you do that?". Paul

The natural hand eye cordination is a fact! It just happens. The use of a maul is subject to a very short learning curve, but once you become comfortable then going back to a mallet style is probably not going to happen. I use a 12OZ. for the lighter tooling and a 26OZ for the heavier impressions and a 48OZ for concho cutting, maker's stamp and other broad faced stmaps, and also setting copper rivets. Barry King has a good selection of high quality mauls in various weights, although the only one of his I own is the 48OZ. I am very partial to the poly mauls. I've had a few in rawhide, but they show wear and tear much more rapidly. Paul

I agree with all the head/round knife advocates. I think the head knife shape and size is easier to learn and control, but either style is far superior to a utility type knife for cutting patterns out of leather. Absolute sharpness is necessary so extreme caution with the use of the knife is required and NEVER cut with your off hand anywhere in front of the knife (holding the leather). Paul

The very quickest solution to your problem is to dial 888 838 1408 and ask for Steve. He will talk you through your problem while you are sitting at the machine, assuming you have a portable phone. Is your machine the 618-1sc or the 618-1scLTHR? Jerry and Steve are super at solving problems. Paul

Aaron; the tanning method is important in my opinon. I use quite a bit of rattle snake for inlays on my sheaths and I will NOT use glycerin tanned snake skins. Now when tanned the scales get a little brittle and curl slightly. Using a paper towel or something like that stroke lightly against the grain and remove the scales (just like scaling a fish). What is left below the removed scales is the exact same pattern and color but it is not fragile. It works for me. Paul

The Yard Sale, pawn shop thing....buy 20 tools to get two you really want etc. Sometimes I find a person who is starting out in leather work and they impress me with their dedication, talent and desire and I give them a batch of tools geared to their particular direction. This is not limited to stamps, but hand tools, books and anything else I've accumualted and not used for a long time. I suppose eBay would be an option, but frankly I'd rather just give the stuff to someone I feel is deserving of the consideration. Even with this spasmodic "generosity", I still have things I haven't touched in months, but the old "I may use it again someday" syndrom is hard to cure. Duplicates, however, get given away in a heart beat.

Artisan Sewing Supplies is a Schmetz supplier. Paul