Jordan

Looks synthetic, probably available at fabric shops as vest liner or such. Trying to look like wool or fleece.

PM messaging acting rather bizarre when replying to a PM all kinds of weird warnings come up and can't tell if the reply was sent. It will all come out in the wash I'm sure. Looking good, love the colors and it all seems quick enough and easy to read. Chat did freeze up but I could never get it to work before either. I think Ubuntu/Firefox/Flash or something like is messed up on my system because some other sites I go to occasionally do the same.

As Diane Carol was fond of saying "I like it, I Like It, I LIKE IT!"

I used the fast reply box last night and as far as I can tell it did not post to the forum. Perhaps I did not do it right?

Funny you should mention those durn hippies, I hear rumors that there are a bunch hiding out in Idyllwild, Sierra Madre Canyon, and Walnut Creek up yonder in the north country. Most appear to have been assimilated long long ago, in a galaxy far far away!

One of the 3 books at tandy on making cases has a pretty involved pattern for eyeglasses, kind of old style but a belt clip could be incorporated.

Lived there most of my years, Pasadena, Altadena, Sierra Madre (great places but very pricy), Hacienda Heights, Whittier (uptown was very cool in the 70's), Covina, Hemet, Idyllwild (wonderful artistic touristy). The beachs are like everyplace else about an hour away if traffic is moving! We are still trying to sell here in Utah to move back for awhile untill we find a place around Tuscon. Lots and Lots of people, can get claustriphobic at times. We left 13yrs ago so our kids could do jr. high and High school without all the gangs and such. Didn't help to much as Utah has it's own set of wannabe's. Funny though they wouldn't survive 10 seconds in socal. They would run right out of thier baggy pants hi-tailing it back. LOL. Western museum is by the LA Zoo and Autrey is out in Victorville area.

Tandy usually has a scrap bin and the thick stuff is usually a good price, that is what I have used and it works out well.

I always go through the 3 holes in a corner twice, once done I use a mallet to flatten it all out and manipulate the corners by bending, twisting etc, then pound flat again. seems to work good for me.

While I have not looked closely at the tandy press due to ridiculously high price, I believe it is simply an arbor press that has been modified for leather stamping. I think a press is the best way to get good impressions every time and a generic press mostly used in the automotive trades could be reworked for leather stamping. I think the only area to be modified would be how the stamps are attached to the press. Until I get one, I have found that using a heavy handle and heavy mallet works ok but double bounce and unwanted corners are still a problem if the leather is to dry, to wet, angle of attack is off or your bench is not real solid. But by far a pressed stamping looks better and is a lot easier to do as smooth, even leverage pressure allows for consistent results.

Go ask Alllice, when she's ten feet tall! Makes me want to chase caterpillars. Whoa, almost got lost in the ozone again. Great work, but I don't remember Alice looking like that.

Cool, hope slash doesn't want it back, LOL

Start at $80-$90 for a plain jane strap and the upwards of 200 is not out of line, if it has all the bells and whistles. 2" wide is a bit on the skinny side, unless it widens over the shoulder. A padded 3" slider is one option for the shoulder area. I guess my point is there is a lot more to making a proper strap than most people would think. A top quality strap for an expensive instrument is as mandatory as is a top quality holster for an expensive weapon.

I would suggest a stitching groove to recess the thread a bit and tighten up the spacing of the stitch around the brim and main seams. I think it would give a more finished look. But hey, still looks great.

To me a pattern is completely different than the artwork that is placed on a finished item. Also, anyone is free to use anything I post, as I feel posting it implies my permission to use it. Besides, I am flattered that someone would think enough of my work to copy it. Of course if they got rich off of it, I would re-access my thoughts on the subject and demand morning coffee and donuts for life. LOL

http://www.bighousedaddy.com/ Not free but lots and lots of patterns for sale.

welcome to the site, My suggestion is to read everything that interests you on this site, that will put you eons ahead of most beginners, then find a tandy shop buy a few tools and have at it.

Don't know about the revolver question but the addition of a wooden dowel between the sights usually takes care of the catching problem. I think with a western style holster it would not present that much of a problem, as the holsters are not molded in the barrel area as close as the autos are.

Welcome, there is not anything wrong with using old methods, in a lot of cases the new tools just make it easier to mess things up. You will find volumes of great information here and a bunch of wonderful people most of whom are more than willing to share what they know. And photos speak a thousand words so don't worry about your spelling or grammar.

I always enjoyed watching the motorized bar stool races too, those coolers could be the track ambulances just in case

One idea might be the rubber spline used to repair or replace window and door screens it comes in 2 or 3 different diameters and 50 to 100 foot lengths, just a few bucks at lowes or home depot.

I have always thought that a sit down stitching horse with interchangeable parts would be a good project, drawers under the seat for tools, a stitching jaw, stamping stone pedestal and whatever other attachments you could think of to mount on top, add a padded seat and some wheels and you could tool all around town in style.

Least expensive would be to buy an arbor, I think a place like harbor freight would have one at a reasonable price, a fan belt and an old motor like from a washing machine. Mount it all on a board with an on/off switch and there you have it. There are plans out there on wood working sites. Guitar building sites have them for buffing (LMI or Stewmac) but they are pricy.

Nice job, flip-flops will be my next project, seems all the youngsters wear them in Utah, rain or shine. Have to get my shop area back to working condition though as I have been sidetracked lately researching guitar building.

A nice looking hat, the only thing I would work on is the exposed edges, IMHO they need to be skived (or thinned) glued and burnished to blend them it a bit more. Other than that looks real good and I would hesitate to do one myself as construction looks trying to say the least.