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Plus it makes it while you sleep.

I have been doing that on my splitter. I start of with the thin end and progressively open the splitter as I move along. It works much better than using my skiver.

Thank you. That was very helpful. I believe the Campbell Randal manual recommends an awl size the next size bigger than the needle. I had been using that combination but find your recommendation of one full size larger produces better looking stitches. I am wondering what adjustments you think might be made to get the bottom stitch to look more like the top without running an overstitch wheel over it. Lately I have been using waxed Tiger thread in my machine instead of either polyester or waxed linen and the only issue seems to be increased drag on the shuttle tension. Anyway thanks for all of your knowledge.

Excellent

What is the cylinder diameter of this machine?

Leather 3/8" thick

The threads are only as strong as the base material. You can print threads directly into the design and they will be as strong or stronger than the threads cut by the inserts. Why use inserts when they pull out of the same material as a screw would?

What kind of quality are you looking for? The ones sold by Buckleguy are much higher quality than Weaver or any others I have used.

I do something similar but I always try not to sand. The nicest edge for me seems to occur right after the knife cut so I cut, bevel and burnish. Sanding for me just raises a bunch of fibers up.

Maybe I'm missing something but I find that if I slick the edge right after dyeing I get as good an edge as anything else I've tried. The key is to burnish the edge while the dye is still wet. I power burnish using a cocobolo wheel.

2" diameter cylinder arm that will sew up to #277 thread.

I'm looking for a cylinder arm machine with a 2" diameter cylinder arm that will sew #207 thread. Is there such a thing?

I use SolidWorks and it has the same feature but changing the resolution doesn't seem to change the file size.

Didn't work.

I'm not trying to load them all together. I may be able to go back into my CAD program and create them at a lower resolution which may result in a smaller file size.

Thanks, that's a good suggestion. I'm not interested in making any money off my work so why not make it available to anyone that wants to use it?

It looks like the STL files are too large to attach. Anyone have any idea as to how to get around that?

No problem, that's what I figured but added a comment just in case.

Thanks, It shows a little wear and there are some things I am going to change.

Not sure how UV would have any effect on a leather pattern or mold unless you were going to leave them out in the sun. In any event I have made and used over a hundred molds and patterns and never had an issue with either temperature or UV. There are some strength issues which could probably be resolved by using nylon but I've never made enough of any one thing in enough quantity to wear out a mold. A few years back I made about 50 pocket and flap type knife sheaths and while the mold started to show a little wear, it was still functional. I would think that 3D printed molds and patterns would be a boon to a small shop producing limited quantities.

Would not have to upgrade but seriously, I haven't needed to smooth the molds. I have designed the molds and worked out a process where the pattern doesn't imprint on the leather unless I want it to. One of the nice things about 3D printing the molds is that they can be pretty exact dimension wise and you can put a draft on them. Adding draft makes the mold halves easy to separate and helps minimize sidewall abrasion.

I'll post them over the next week or so.

The 3D printer and press are the most used leather machines I have. Together both cost about half as much as a new Cobra splitter or sewing machine. Thanks, I'll post them over the next few weeks. I'll also make the STL files available to anyone who wants them.