Ole South

How do you keep USMC Black from greying or going chalky?

Still on sale... note that it is Urethane and a little softer than the white poly. It still does well cutting strap ends and heavy punching. There is a 30oz version too. https://www.grizzly.com/products/24-oz-Non-marring-Mallet/D2807

I love tools... especially old tools. But... I don't think branding/ego polish should outweigh function and at my core I don't think clubs (hammers) should be expensive unless they include warranties and guarantied outcomes or power cords. Don't get me wrong... I PAY for quality name brand when it's warranted but so many of our "Name Brand" previously quality tools and implements have been farmed out to the lowest bidder (no, I'm not looking at any particular country, I've found good to great quality from many nations... even those that get a bad rap generally). SO... when the inexpensive mallets began showing up on Xbay (no Art... this is not for the adults only section) I was curious. I bought one with free shipping for $12.00usd. No... doesn't come with an engraved headpiece, no stacked leather handle... just a polished aluminum (I think) handle and a poly head. It's okay... works like a maul... you hit something with it and energy is transferred. I don't have big mitts so the somewhat shorter overall length isn't a problem. And since it's primarily for tooling I ain't swinging it very hard. Then... I saw (gasp) similar mallets with WOODEN HANDLES appear. Much prettier and traditional looking to boot! So when the price dropped I ordered one of those... just for comparison ofc. The 24oz is a Shop Fox I picked up on sale from I think WoodCraft for $9.99 plus shipping. They do their jobs... not badly balanced, I wish the white poly heads were a bit larger diameter but hey... for the price I'm not gripping. The wooden handle poly is ~49mm dia while the silver (comes in anodized black too) is ~50.8mm dia. For a beginner to intermediate worker they work and don't break the bank. I've used the Stohlman mauls and *shrug* best I can say is they may fit bigger hands better and they have a larger diameter head but I'll wait for a significant price reduction/sale before investing in one. Not that they don't work well.....

The local Tandy (Tampabay area) carving/tooling classes don't cost you anything... save the basic tools you probably already have. I not sure but I don't believe the Orlando branch charges either... we've had two excellent instructors (neither are/were Tandy employees) that basically donate their time to share their talent and experience. I don't tool much but have learned something every time I've attended or watched a class. Check your local store. As a beginner, you miss so much not having a live instructor or mentor looking over your shoulder. If your swivel knife is giving you issues... strop it at the proper angle until it's sharp and all the grind marks are gone... they don't come ready for use from a hobby store... Tandy not excluded.

Try Gel Antique over Fiebings Mahogany (sorry Colt.. I missed your post regarding these colors)

Beautifully edited and composed video Uwe, just brilliant! (as always) Additionally you've answered a question as to why a sewing spider is so important for those first few stitches when binding. In garment weight fabric we can usually cheat a bit but thickness like this... they are imperative.

Wallymart sells the Fiskars 24x24 self healers for about $17... buy a second one and get a piece of 24x48" 1/4-1/2" mdf to use as a base from Home Despot and you should be good to go without eating up much storage space. I'll second the rotary cutter and straight edge for light to medium weight straight/gradual curve cutting... they're sold at Wallymart too.

Good insight here.... as Edison once said, "If I have succeeded, it's only because I have failed more often and more successfully than my competitors" (or something to that effect). Love the internal monologue too! Btw... no reference pix of the "Sabah Shoe"

2 oz rolled to the back side center = 4oz. Foot?!!? Hemming FOOT???!!! We ain't tailors!!! Glue and hammer with a mallet then stitch.

This is a tote yes? Turn bag inside out and top stitch from the inside. or... Is your bobbin side stitch okay? If yes... sew from the inside on your last least visible seam and handstitch the bottom. Otherwise find a patcher and try and match stitch length.

If you have an aversion to sponges (Poriferaphobia?) some people use a mister type spray bottle ("Mist".. as in fine spray not as in "and Mrs")

Google "French Seam Upholstery" Lots of youtubes on it

Looks like a rolled hem. Like you would with fabric. Hard to tell if it's been skived down or probably just 2 oz.

Move the needle closer to the hook? Top screw above the needle clamp screw. Loosen and rotate the hook to the needle... push the needle clamp toward bobbin, needle eye barely away from hook (hook should be a bit above and in the needle scarf) This is so you can adjust for larger diameter needles i.e. 16 vs 22.

Ummm... have you considered chrome tan laminated and sewn to veg? You're gonna have to paint the edges anyway so burnishing is just to get a smooth edge.

@kheart: could you get a side view of one of those and post it?

Rivets are best in items that get daily use... not good for long term storage. Use rivets for two reasons: Cosmetics ("I'm going to be like bored in an hour so what do I care what it looks like next week man") and Because you NEED it. (it's a stress point that will eventually wear a threaded only seam out.)

That's the page Thor. The knot in the picture appears to be a variant, perhaps a double loop rolled button? I wish we could get a side view.

If you're using flat pattern pieces use a "Dust Bag", Cut about 4 inches of a cotton sock off the toe. Fill with talcum powder, tie it off and pat the edges of your pattern. If you need lines steal from the tailors... a sliver of hand soap. I usually mark from the backside of the leather and use a ball point pen (not gel)

Try using a bone awl as a test. The steel awl blade may be leaving metal in the stitch slot as it does when you polish it and then that transfers to the wax in the thread.

YinTx was selling surplus Tiger Thread just before Christmas. I got some it's great! Good price, shipped fast! (my satisfied customer feedback)

Bruce Grant called it a Roll Button Leather Braiding book pg 31. At least that's what it looks like. Sorry I don't have a scanner handy atm, I'll try and scan that page tomorrow.

@ Tor: Yep, Harrison N.J. stamped. @ Kulafarmer: grinder spark test will get you in the ballpark. Friend of mine has plasma cut blanks from old large diameter lumber mill saws.

In cloth I've heard it referred to as "Reverse Applique"

I've got Oblong Punch Sharpening blues too. Inexpensive Chinese punches... appear to be hardend only on the inside, using a wet grinder every time I get close to a decent edge it chips somewhere. To protect all my chisel punches I use the end grain of a 4x4 block of pine. Clean it up with your band or table saw when it gets too ate up.