Tramps Leatherworking

I have several of Barry king tools and the quality is excellent, highly recommended by this old biker...

That is bizarre, I have used A&E bonded Poly from the thread Exchange for years, and I have never had that problem, not even close...

What, no biker monster? Great job anyway!

Looks pretty good, thinner leather will work as you already mentioned --- I would also spend some time burnishing and finishing the edges...

I agree with billybopp, I leave it a little long then trim --- I never considered it cheating, just good planning...

The "secret" to saddle stitching is consistency in the creation of the stitch --- I have seen Nigel stitch in round holes and the stitch row looked fantastic. There are many different methods and tools used to create the holes for stitching, and all can look good if the stitching is done properly... If you learn the little "half-knot trick" he does it will help immensely...

Lmao, Jack Daniel's?

I use C.S. Osborne snaps, I have no complaints...

I wear deerskin gloves exclusively for riding and they are extremely durable and can withstand repeated exposure to moisture (rain storms). They can even be hand washed...

This has baffled me for quite sometime also, we can land robots on mars, but we can't engineer a sewing machine to sew 69 through 415 thread?

I agree with oltoot, your stitching looks very nice... Most of the time, I push the awl through to the fat part of the blade, a shorter blade 1 1/2" will help achieve more consistency... If I do not need to penetrate fully, I will push the blade through to the desired thickness and mark the blade with a marker so I can be at the same depth each time...

JLS and Leatherwytch just nailed it --- the way to buy leather, with consistent characteristics (Quality), is to personally hand select it... People put too much faith in the name on the receipt, I have bought good and bad from all sources in the past, that is why all my leather is hand selected by me, or someone from my shop I have trained... Right or wrong --- I know what I want leather to look, feel (hand), and smell like... (Your Opinion May Vary)

I'm sure she will cherish that bag for years to come --- my dad was a master wood carver, and I still think of him everytime I view one of his creations...

In a larger size, that would make a cool shifter knob for a hand (suicide) shift Harley...

Damn, biker wallets have changed since I started making them 35 years ago --- most of the "bikers" I know couldn't afford that wallet... Very Nice!

I concur with the above, I think too often people get confused between "thread strength" and "cosmetics." #69 thread is actually pretty damn strong --- but, when you see people using 207+ for knife sheaths a lot of people assume that is for strength, when it is actually cosmetic... I was taught that when choosing a thread for strength, optimally, you would want the thread to break before the leather was destroyed... (Your experience and teaching may vary)

I asked this question once (tapered vs straight) when I was buying some Barry King tools. Tapered mauls are designed to be more ergonomic, making it easier on the wrists --- ultimately, it is a matter of personal preference.

Nice job! I totally understand what you mean about the hands --- everytime I use my machines my hands give a sigh of relief...

I know nothing about saddles unless they are on V-Twin Iron Horses, but it looks pretty good to me...

I concur with the crowd, great job!

Tossik, I think you will find there is no "one machine" that will "do it all" I have three, and they all get used for various projects. A cylinder arm machine such as the aforementioned CB 3200, or a Consew 227 R-2 are more versatile than a standard Flatbed machine, but will not normally sew thread smaller than #69 with a size 18 needle. My suggestion would be to visit a dealer and explain what you wish to do, and see if they will let you try different machines (flatbed and cylinder arms) to see which one you feel more comfortable with.

Glenn, on some machines, and needle/thread combinations it might work ok, mine just doesn't like a 22 needle with 138 nylon, or poly... When I bought my machine, they (Nick-O-Sew) suggested using a #23 with 138 thread. I have tried a #22 because I had some already and it will break the thread. (Your Results May Vary)

Very Nice!!!

I have a Consew 227 R-2 and it will not sew 138 thread with a #22 needle, I have to use a #23... I use a #20 for 92 thread.

I just looked on their site and all the A&E poly thread say's "Bonded" --- you have to click on the thread name... No, I have had no issues with this thread twisting coming off the spool.