Uwe

Gravitational waves. That machine is clearly a gravitational wave detector that senses when a gravitational wave, generated by a supernova in a distant galaxy, causes a distortion in times-space and deflects the thread loop away from the hook. I see a nobel prize in your future.

Those portable Sailrite class machines apparently have a foot lift of 3/8" and they're designed to sew up to 1/4" according to the spec sheets. So they may not be super good candidates for your intended work, but they'd be a big step up from your home machine (and if you find yourself on a boat in the middle of the atlantic with a ripped sail, they're absolutely perfect.) Even full size industrial walking foot machines will start to moan and complain with material thickness approaching 1/2".

To my knowledge, the only portable flatbed machines that come even close to what you're trying to do are the sailrite ultrafeed class of machines (http://www.sailrite.com/), made by various manufacturers in the $400-$800 price range. Whether or not any of them can actually sew 5/8" with good results, I'm not certain. I actually have two of these types of machines (clones, not sailrite) that I haven't even tried out yet. Perhaps I'll give them a whirl tomorrow and see what they can do. I'm not actually planning on using them, they came in a package deal along with another machine I bought for keeps. They'll be up for sale as soon as I can make sure they actually work.

People's definition of compound feed varies, to some it just means more than one mode of material transport. When people in the LW forums say compound feed, they generally mean triple feed, or unison feed. It means the material is moved by three methods at the same time: 1. Bottom feed dog 2. Upper presser foot 3. Needle However, every possible combination of the three methods exists in some machine. In your machine's design it looks like the needle does NOT help move the material - it just goes down and up to make the stitch while the material is stationary. Then the material is moved while the needle is up. That's not bad thing, mind you, but most people who sew leather want the triple feed mode of moving multiple layers of material. Here's a video of how I think your machine works. Of course I may be wrong, and it wouldn't be the first time, either.

It looks a lot like the machines described in this brochure: http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_class_105.pdf Yours is dated earlier based on the logo and typeface - I'm guessing 30's or 40's. Not exactly sure when they stopped using the "ADLER" and went to "adler", but I have a feeling that "adler" is a post-war change.

A close-up of that type plate you're pointing at on the front would be very helpful. Also a close-up of the throat plate and feed dog with raised presser foot and picture of the backside to determine what type of feed mechanism this machine has. It looks like it has top feed (perhaps adjustable to create pucker/stretch for moccasin type work?), it likely also has bottom feed, but the needle plate hole indicates no needle feed.

I took in a handful of project machines over the last few months and will be putting them up for sale as I finish working on them. First one out of the gates is a Juki LU-562 (next up are a Juki LU-563-3 and an Adler 67-GA373.) I took apart the head for a proper cleaning and to replace the thread tension release guide. It also has new presser feet, feed dog, bobbin cover plate, and assorted new screws. The paint shows some wear but mechanically the machine is in fine working condition, adjusted to factory specs with perfect reverse stitching, and ready to provide decades of reliable service in caring hands. I'm located near Detroit, Michigan. The machine head by itself is $600. I can ship the head for $150 within the continental U.S. in a custom-made wooden shipping crate. The machine is also listed on my Detroit Area Craigslist: https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/bfd/5573798856.html I made a sewing demo/promo video for this Juki LU-562 machine. The video also includes some glamour close-up stills at the end:

I'm only repeating what the Schmetz sales person told me at their booth earlier today. He was going by memory, and who knows what production runs they actually have nowadays. I came across one other reference for the 1000 needles in a Consew brochure for their 733 series machine. Special order may mean that you have to buy a couple thousand needles at a time to make it worth their while to fire up the production line.

I posted the following in another thread with the same question a little while ago: The Durkopp Adler H-Type machines can use both system 794 and system 1000 Needles. The system 1000 Needles are only made by Schmetz as of right now. The 1000H versions are the fabric point needles. They have only one leather point version, the 1000Q, which has a square tip with four cutting edges for leather work. They are only available in sizes 250, 280, and 300. The 1000 series has slightly shorter shank and thus a longer shaft, to allow for maximum material thickness without the thicker shank part penetrating the material. All this is what the folks at the Durkopp Adler, Schmetz, and Groetz Beckerts stand just told me a few minutes ago. I just happen to be at the TexProcess sewing machinery trade show in Atlanta. They also said the System 794 needles are a much better choice for leatherwork because of the large number of leather point versions that are available in that needle system, from both Schmetz and Groetz Beckert.

The Durkopp Adler H-Type machines can use both system 794 and system 1000 Needles. The system 1000 Needles are only made by Schmetz as of right now. The 1000H versions are the fabric point needles. They have only one leather point version, the 1000Q, which has a square tip with four cutting edges for leather work. They are only available in sizes 250, 280, and 300. The 1000 series has slightly shorter shank and thus a longer shaft, to allow for maximum material thickness without the thicker shank part penetrating the material. All this is what the folks at the Durkopp Adler, Schmetz, and Groetz Beckerts stand just told me a few minutes ago. I just happen to be at the TexProcess sewing machinery trade show in Atlanta. They also said the System 794 needles are a much better choice for leatherwork because of the large number of leather point versions that are available in that needle system, from both Schmetz and Groetz Beckert.

Thanks for sharing, Joe. I'd certainly be willing to do some polishing at that price point, haha. Sometimes folks don't want to reveal wholesale pricing for items intended for resale, and sometimes it's considered rude to ask how much something cost. I just wasn't quite sure in this particular instance, that's all.

I don't think these work well on 441 clones. You have to drill mounting holes and the placement of the manual foot lift lever interferes with the swing-down guide.

And what kind of budget is required to have this machine show up at your door step in North America? Is there some kind of code that prevents us from sharing how much this machine costs?

The pain levels caused by a non-functioning machine your business depends on may be higher than the pain of watching some essential instructional videos that help you understand how the whole machine works. I think it's useful to use common terminology regarding needle anatomy. There's a "scarf" on a needle, but no "kerf". "You know what I mean" doesn't really work for beginners who are trying to learn. Anybody planning to rely on remote, internet-based tech support for their machine is also well advised to quickly figure out how to take sharp, well-lit photos and video snippets with their smart phone, and how to share video snippets with others on youtube, either privately or publicly. In the absence of overriding clone manufacturer instructions, the original Juki Engineer's manual for the TSC-441 class of machines is the authority on adjusting these machines.

Make sure you use the right type of needle (794). The needle should slide easily into the needle bar before you tighten the set screw. These two videos should cover most setup and adjustment issues. Watch them in their entirety and compare your machine's settings with those shown in the videos.

Yup, there's a scratch that makes the "II" look like "H". The Singer 111W155 is a very popular and very capable sewing machine for upholstery and leather work. A great starter machine that's well known with lots of inexpensive parts available. A well adjusted machine should sew up to 6-8mm of soft leather with size 138 thread without much trouble.

Three things need to be in the right spot at the same time for proper feed timing: 1. Thread take-up lever at the very top 2. Arrows on the hook drive shaft aligned 3. Feed dog all the way to the front It's possible your feed eccentric assembly (the part that changed the stitch length, "wobbles" around the drive shaft and moves the feed lever) has shifted/rotated on the hook drive shaft. It's supposed to sit in a very specific position on the hook drive shaft, usually by means of a set screw in a lengthwise slot carved into the hook drive shaft. If point 1. and 2. are in the right spot, but the feed dog is not in the front, your feed eccentric itself may be out of alignment somehow. Dial in the maximum stitch length first to make it easier to tell the position of the feed eccentric and feed dog.

One more little video with narration to explain what I was trying to say in the previous posts. When I purposely installed the belt with the bottom shaft a half turn out of synch (not in the video), my feed movement was reversed just like in your video, so now I'm convinced that your shafts are out of synch.

I'm still betting on top and bottom drive shafts being out of synch. Here's how my Consew 225 drive shafts move. The thread take-up lever tells you where the top drive shaft is in relation to the bottom drive shaft. Compare this video to yours. In case you're missing the arrow markers on the bottom hook drive shaft, you may need to use some other visual alignment method to figure out when top and bottom shafts are in synch. When you install a new belt, you need to put top and bottom drive shaft in the exact, synchronized positions before sliding the belt back on the cog wheels. I've used a hair dryer to warm up the belt, which makes it much easier to slide the belt on and off the toothed cog wheels.

Since you replaced the belt, the top and bottom drive shafts may be out of synch. Your machine should have two opposing arrows or some other marks on the lower shaft that need to line up when the thread take-up lever is at its highest point. My Consew 225 hook timing video shows what I'm talking about at the 2-Minute mark: Although that does not quite explain why your needle descends in the back and comes up in the front. I'll drag out my Consew 225 and have a closer look.

LOVE that stand!!!

Machines that are advertised as being "industrial strength" rarely are. The Pfaff 60 might do what you intend to use it for. But there are true industrial SInger 111 class machines available (e.g. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bfs/5555446978.html) that stay below $500 even with a new table and servo motor, all within a day's drive of you.

Make a video of your moon-walking machine and add some Michael Jackson music to go with it. That Keystone version of the Navy manual does have the wrong spec for hook timing needle rise, by the way. The Army manual is correct.

The US army technical manual https://archive.org/details/TM10-3530-202-24 describes how to remove the hook on a Singer 111W155 starting on page 114. It also covers hook timing with accurate specs. Removing and reinstalling the hook for cleaning and inspection (Or installing a new $35 Hirose Hook) may be a good idea anyways. I almost always find thread fragments lodged in place you can't even see.

That one sold quickly.