Uwe

I've had occasional trouble on my Consew 225 with the thread getting caught under the hook. Today I figured how it happens and I can make it happen. What I haven't figured out yet is how to fix it. The machine sews perfectly on a normal run and timing is generally spot-on. But if I happen to stop the machine at the exact wrong moment and touch the hand wheel, it may cause the thread to get caught under the hook. Patient:"Doctor, if I do this it hurts" Doctor: "Don't do that" The "wrong" moment is exactly when the needle exits the material. This may happen occasionally and if turn the handwheel back just a tiny bit to bury the needle again for a turn, trouble ensues. I'm wondering if the design of the new hook is contributing to the problem. The problem happened quite often with the old, original hook, which is why I installed a new hook. Alas, the new hook doesn't prevent the problem entirely. I had messaged with Eric about his problem (before I figured out how to repeat it). The issue may be of general interest, so I'm throwing it up here to crowd source a potential solution and share the fix. Here's the video of the problem:

So, does anybody have or know where to find a manual that goes beyond page 8? I'd love to have the whole thing.

As for reduced stitch length, sometimes the culprit is actually feed dog timing. If the feed dog doesn't start to come up until after it starts moving backwards or if it goes down before it reaches the very back of its movement, you miss out on part of the full movement it's capable of. The vertical feed dog movement timing should be simple to check and adjust, but I haven't done it yet myself on the 42-5, so I can't offer specifics or pictures right now.

My 42-5 has no feed movement when the stitch length lever is at the top. In the bottom position, my feed dog carrier moves about 0.24" front to back, so I should get about 4 stitches per inch (once I order some system 16x63 needles, which are readily available on Ebay and elsewhere.) I'm attaching the manual I had downloaded well before I ever got my 42-5. I saved the file in a folder I had named "Singer 42-5 best Singer flatbed ever?", based on a comment from one of our Australian members. When it finally popped up on CraigsList, I drove three hours one way to pick it up - gotta do these crazy things before I get too old to do them! (I also admit to checking CL before major road trips and picked up a lovely Pfaff 545C H4-N10 in St. Louis last weekend, but that's a different topic) 42_CLASS.pdf

Is that piece of leather in your picture only 2-1/4 inches top to bottom? A ruler next to the stitch line would help establish scale. I have a Singer 42-5 that's patiently awaiting its turn for some tender loving care. Parts are hit and miss. Needle bar and presser spring were readily available and cheap, but it took weeks just to get my hands on some bobbins at $12 per bobbin - ouch! I have yet to find a source for throat plates (or throat plate inserts).

It seems I've hijacked my own topic! The relative merits of certain sewing machine hacks probably deserves its own topic. I'll check with MJ Foley on actual real-world end-user pricing of the Juki LS-2342 models. The $7-8K ballpark figure is what the Juki guy at the trade show stated for the base model, somewhat hesitantly.

I'd recommend holding out for a machine that actually works. If the original owner could not make it work again, chances are slim that you as a novice can. Shipping to Tippman and back again, plus hard-to-guess repair costs makes this machine almost a non-starter regardless of price.

The short answer would be "No" I'm afraid. One might be able to modify a standard machine to come close, but I've not seen a commercial machine with the specs you listed. I recently stumbled upon a video by upholstery virtuoso and machine whisperer "Cechaflo" on youtube where he shows how to modify a garment-class vintage flatbed machine to be able to handle thicker needles and thread. The modifications may be similar to make a slim cylinder bed machine deal with thicker thread. I've not attempted any of this, so I can't say how well it might work. You'll be changing tiny bobbins holding just few windings of thick thread all the time, no matter what.

One of the most impressive new machines I saw at the trade show in Atlanta last month was the new Juki LS-2342. It's hard to find information online about this machine (even on Juki's website), so I decided to scan in my little sales flyer and share it here. The machine fits size-wise and capability-wise between the LS-1341 and the TSC-441, and may be of interest to leatherworkers with deep pockets - the price is likely around $8K. Here's the brochure for your spec reading entertainment: http://docs.uwe.net/Juki-LS-2342.pdf Juki-LS-2342.pdf

In 2009, a LW member determined a Randall for $700 was a good deal: Here's the part about the Randall, picture looks just like yours.

One way to look at it is you take the total amount you paid for the thirty machines at the auction, divide that amount by 30, and - voilà - that is exactly what these machines were worth to you. A great starting point. Double that amount if you want to make a 100% profit.

They're worth whatever somebody is willing to pay. Transportation cost can be significant, too, with these behemoths. Auction items can be tricky to value because you have zero history on them - they were either "working when removed from factory," or they were beyond-repair parts machines they kept around to scavenge parts from as needed, or something in between. We actually have a member from Campbell Randall on the forum (user name: CampbellRandall) . He (or she) may be able to tell you (privately, perhaps) how much they offer for machines they take in to be refurbished, and how much they cost in perfect working condition after having been refurbished by them. The value of yours will lie somewhere in between, likely towards the bottom end of the range. It shouldn't be too much of a secret, really, the fellow who runs the Landis operation gave me useful ballpark value figures for the Landis 16 I recently acquired.

I had come across the SewMaq twin of my mystery machine in a previous picture search. Unfortunately it also suffers from a total lack of manuals or parts diagrams. At least the sales flyer offers some basic specs of the machines. Thanks for all of your input! I've decided to tell the guy who owns the FOMAX mystery machine that he's out of luck, at least outside of Spain.

This machine clearly calls for the ten-foot-pole in my repair tool chest that I use NOT to touch certain machines with.

Consew 225 (twins of the SInger 111W155) are great starter machines, both for learning how to sew with industrial machines and how to maintain/adjust them. Parts are readily available and cheap, should you need them. A new servo motor may be a worthwhile investment right upfront. I have a few videos on YouTube about this class of machines, including a hook adjustment video wich may be useful if you end up buying the machine:

Doing a Google search like "site:leatherworker.net Pfaff 145" will bring up previous discussions about a particular machine model or class (like Pfaff 145/545/1245), like the one listed below. Pfaff in general are high quality machines, with comparatively expensive, but generally available parts. General previous discussions about using Flatbed vs. cylinder arm machines for various flat vs three dimensional projects apply. The Pfaff 145 should do well with flat projects like upholstery and belts, but stiff bags my present a challenge.

Wrap a fabric tape measure around both of the timing pulley/cog wheels, just like the timing belt would run. Measure the overall length, how far the teeth are apart, and how wide the cog wheels are. That will tell you just about all there is know about a timing belt.

The middle Letter (G,A,W, etc.) usually indicates in which factory the machine was produced : http://www.sewalot.com/dating_singer_sewing_machine_by_serial_number.htm Some Singer manuals will give a brief description of the various subclasses.

Advanced Sewing Technologies Corp. is one of the big boys in used sewing machines supplies. They publish a monthly inventory spreadsheet, which currently shows one Singer 211A157AA, plus several other needle feed machines with reverse that may be suitable candidates. You can contact them for a quote of a specific model you're interested in and they send you a price and a picture of the machine.

I'm glad you got it figured out. Feel free to call me directly if you run into trouble with that machine!

Pictures always help identifying machines, parts, or variants thereof. Post some detailed close-up pictures of your SV machine, including the underside and all the bits you mentioned in your initial post.

I looked at a customer's Fomax KDD 848H machine today that needs repair (broken stitch dial mechanism). The machine was imported from Spain. I have a feeling the Fomax is a copy of some other major brand model but I'm striking out on Google and my other usual research sources. Does anybody recognise this design and/or know of a source for a parts diagram? It has a distinctive stitch dial detail:

Thanks Eric. I totally get that for a large operation like yours there are different considerations and decision criteria in play, compared to a craft person with one or two machines in the shop. In a factory the question usually is "which machine is the best option for this particular sewing operation?" For a crafter, the question usually is "How can I adjust this one versatile machine I have to do this particular sewing operation well?" I have a strong feeling that a compound feed sewing machine is perfectly capable of producing non-puckered seams on waxed canvas, given the right thread, presser feet, and adjustments. I also strongly suspect that thread tension top+bottom plays a big role in puckering or lack thereof, contrary to statements made earlier in the thread. Waxed canvas has been on my to-try list for a while. I just got a sample book of waxed canvas from Carr Textile and I'm going to order a few yards to experiment with.

Perhaps I'm missing something but I'm not following the logic on why a needle feed machine would cause less puckering than a compound (top+bottom+needle) feed machine. Can somebody elaborate on why and how a compound feed would cause more puckering? The only thing I can come up with is that a needle feed machine may not move the material 100% of the way, but only, say, 95% due to the needle flexing a little as it's pulling the material forward. That slightly shortened material movement may alleviate puckering. A properly adjusted compound feed machine will move the material 100% of the way (which is the point of that design).

It may be the generator that turns 120V AC into 240V 3-Phase AC to drive the motor. Weird, interesting, and potentially dangerous. Personally, I'd take some pictures to document it, remove it all and install a modern servo motor.