Uwe

Three things need to be in the right spot at the same time for proper feed timing: 1. Thread take-up lever at the very top 2. Arrows on the hook drive shaft aligned 3. Feed dog all the way to the front It's possible your feed eccentric assembly (the part that changed the stitch length, "wobbles" around the drive shaft and moves the feed lever) has shifted/rotated on the hook drive shaft. It's supposed to sit in a very specific position on the hook drive shaft, usually by means of a set screw in a lengthwise slot carved into the hook drive shaft. If point 1. and 2. are in the right spot, but the feed dog is not in the front, your feed eccentric itself may be out of alignment somehow. Dial in the maximum stitch length first to make it easier to tell the position of the feed eccentric and feed dog.

One more little video with narration to explain what I was trying to say in the previous posts. When I purposely installed the belt with the bottom shaft a half turn out of synch (not in the video), my feed movement was reversed just like in your video, so now I'm convinced that your shafts are out of synch.

I'm still betting on top and bottom drive shafts being out of synch. Here's how my Consew 225 drive shafts move. The thread take-up lever tells you where the top drive shaft is in relation to the bottom drive shaft. Compare this video to yours. In case you're missing the arrow markers on the bottom hook drive shaft, you may need to use some other visual alignment method to figure out when top and bottom shafts are in synch. When you install a new belt, you need to put top and bottom drive shaft in the exact, synchronized positions before sliding the belt back on the cog wheels. I've used a hair dryer to warm up the belt, which makes it much easier to slide the belt on and off the toothed cog wheels.

Since you replaced the belt, the top and bottom drive shafts may be out of synch. Your machine should have two opposing arrows or some other marks on the lower shaft that need to line up when the thread take-up lever is at its highest point. My Consew 225 hook timing video shows what I'm talking about at the 2-Minute mark: Although that does not quite explain why your needle descends in the back and comes up in the front. I'll drag out my Consew 225 and have a closer look.

LOVE that stand!!!

Machines that are advertised as being "industrial strength" rarely are. The Pfaff 60 might do what you intend to use it for. But there are true industrial SInger 111 class machines available (e.g. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bfs/5555446978.html) that stay below $500 even with a new table and servo motor, all within a day's drive of you.

Make a video of your moon-walking machine and add some Michael Jackson music to go with it. That Keystone version of the Navy manual does have the wrong spec for hook timing needle rise, by the way. The Army manual is correct.

The US army technical manual https://archive.org/details/TM10-3530-202-24 describes how to remove the hook on a Singer 111W155 starting on page 114. It also covers hook timing with accurate specs. Removing and reinstalling the hook for cleaning and inspection (Or installing a new $35 Hirose Hook) may be a good idea anyways. I almost always find thread fragments lodged in place you can't even see.

That one sold quickly.

When I search eBay for "Juki 1541" I see original Juki heads for as little as $1250 new from Alberoni in Los Angeles, and clones by Reliable, Typical, Ludwig, and Consew, some of which actually cost more than a Juki. Shipping to New Zealand is a whole different story. I'd recommend checking with a NZ or Australian supplier for machines that have similar specs, although you're probably hard pressed to find any that are significantly cheaper than the actual Jukis. Buying local is king when is comes to heavy machinery. Check you local sources for gems like a nice looking Juki 563: http://www.trademe.co.nz/crafts/sewing/sewing-machines/auction-1067262077.htm

Direct contact with the Consew folks in NJ will be your best bet I n establishing official manufacturing date range and approximate manufacturing year. Just call them up. There are real people answering the phone and I got good service when I called them last year. For establishing current value, a recently completed eBay auction of a similar machine with 25 bids may do the trick: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301892169599&globalID=EBAY-US The follow-up model Consew 227R-2 had brochures printed with a 2007 copyright notice ( http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PDF/227R2.pdf) It's probably safe to assume that the 227R was no longer in production by that time, so your machine is at least nine years old.

Some manufacturers keep track of when a particular serial number range was manufactured (e.g. Singer). I'm not sure if Consew/Seiko did that. One option is to contact the folks at Consew (http://www.consew.com/). They might be able to give you some official info on when they made the machine (if you can get serial number off it), or at the very least tell you when they stopped producing that particular model for some "it's at least this many years old" type statement. If your customs folks insist on $2500 more to release the machine, just abandon it and write off the money you spent so far as an expensive lesson in Nicaraguan customs requirements. If Nicaragua is one of those countries where Customs can inflict an arbitrary amount of pain and suffering, you may be doomed. In general you need to at least be able to provide proof of value (receipt etc.) and be aware of tariffs for certain items before you present it to Customs. A little homework goes a long way when buying big ticket items abroad.

Thanks guys! Thin wool felt strips sound like great idea, that didn't even occur to me! I have some wool felt material to experiment with. I have a feeling the missing wicks got yanked out by somebody thinking they were just odd pieces of thread lodged in the hole. Some of the wicks run inside plastic tubes, and for those I think the oil lamp wick will work nicely. My main concern is to get those take-up levers lubricated properly and a rolled-up thin felt strip sounds perfect for that spot.

Several of the machines I've been working on recently had oil wicks missing (e.g. inside the hollow take-up lever pivot shaft). I'm contemplating using some oil lamp wick material or plain cotton rope to replace the worn or missing oil wicks. Is that okay or should I use some special sewing oil wick material instead?

@vonkasCould you please post a PDF version of your factory adjustment manual here so we can all learn from it? Thanks in advance.

I found this on another forum at ybw.com. Haven't tried it yet myself, but may be a good way to put your nose to use as a highly sensitive chemical analysis tool. "Take a few sample strands from each rope. One at a time apply a flame to a sample, for sufficient time to cause it to just burn unaided and immediately extinguish the flame by blowing or dry smothering. The fumes that emit can be useful in identifying what the plastic is.Nylon has a smell not unlike burnt hair.Polyester has an offensive acrid odour, nothing like burnt hair. Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?124455-Nylon-or-polyester-How-to-tell-the-difference&s=9c080cfdd0cd0c3f78fa965f0d72a61f#Emc4PbrLqSiCspql.99

That 150W161 user manual tells you a great deal about the machine, actually. Mainly it tells you (in so many words and in an Obi Wan Kenobi voice) that "this is not the machine you're looking for" if you want to sew multiple layers of leather. It was designed as a high speed machine for attaching labels on folded shirts. It has only drop feed and will most likely struggle and readily give up on sewing thick leather and moving multiple material layers in a synchronized fashion. It's also an oddball, rare machine (not in good way) that you will have a hard time finding parts and support for. You really need a proper compound feed machine, and for purses, hold out for the right cylinder arm machine.

Nice find! I had not seen that one before - and I've watched my share of 441 class videos on YouTube. Another new-to-me video popped up in the suggested list that covers some of the same material but also contains some important timing adjustment information that I've been looking for:

Perhaps your driver is indeed the culprit, then. The attached picture of a 441 style machine shows a driver that fills the cylinder space more and touches the shuttle in a different spot. Since your machine is apparently neither an Adler 205 nor a Juki 441 clone, you may have to track down a parts manual for your machine to figure out what part is right or wrong. Perhaps your machine was never designed to handle the larger thread sizes. Do you have spec sheet for it? Your current hook is a Hirose brand HAD-204 series hook, from the looks of it. A recent post in another thread also indicated that hooks are only interchangeable in one direction between Adler and Juki style machines ("fits" vs. " fits and actually works"). Since your machine is not firmly planted In either category, who knows what will work or not! Report back when you find out.

You're on the third failed stitch in this picture. You're doomed after the first time the thread does not slip past that point. In that position the thread should be slipping though the gap at the hooks butt at the TOP of the picture. If it gets stuck here, it just pulls more thread off the spool and the take-up lever doesn't stand a chance to pull the knot tight. My little video: shows how the thread (415 in this video) should slip through the gaps if hook and driver match properly (Adler 205-370).

I suppose you could grind down one or both tips of the "C"-shaped shuttle driver a millimeter or two to increase clearance for the thread. The driver is generally cheaper than the shuttle hook. Both my Adler 205 and cowboy 4500 allow me to rotate the shuttle by hand so it touches either tip of the driver, leaving a gap at the other end. As I rotate the hand wheel the shuttle hook actually falls forward and backward a tiny bit in the cycle as it makes contact with both ends of the driver. I'm not aware of an adjustment that creates a gap when there is none - it's really in the dimension of the shuttle hook and the driver. The adjustments usually set the hook-to-needle distance and the amount of axial play, which should be little to none.

As with any original vs. copy comparison, the differences will likely range from very subtle to painted-over cracked casting (CC).

"Stitch happens". Whatever you did when that stitch happened, don't do that. But seriously, perhaps it was some anomaly/lump in the thread that caused it to be pulled up a little as the needle ascended. Make it happen more than once on some test scrap pieces and whatch/listen for anything unusual and inspect it closely afterward. It's hard to suggest, let alone pinpoint a cause remotely from just one occurrence, when the other stitches look damn near perfect. Sew slowly enough to notice this right away and stop, to correct or figure out what was different or what went wrong.

Neither one of two pictures you posted show up Tor. Please try again.

Thanks for posting those detailed pictures! It's nice to see things up close (your white thread is caught in that lower tension spring, by the way) The "Made in the U.S.A. with pride" sticker seems a little optimistic and probably refers to just a handful of parts on that machine. Just going by the pictures, I would bet a small amount of money that these machines start life in the same factory where the Cowboy machines are made, and with a few a added custom parts and labels it becomes a Ferdco. I would be rather surprised if there were any Juki parts on that machine. If they started with a Juki, the Ferdco would cost over $6K. Now all we need is a few close-ups of that patented lower needle guide under the slotted throat plate. From the patent drawings, it very much looks like it could be made from modified standard feed dog, ground down and polished to stay below the slotted throat plate as it moves.