MADMAX22

Matt I would take a look at your sporting goods store and see what measurements the standard lengths that are sold are. If I remember correctly I pretty much made mine based on lengths of other makers and what I saw in the stores. Just tried to average it out. Sorry I would have to take a look at an older one which I dont have around right now. Glad you guys found this useful but any more help will involve some leg work, not much but a little. Another thing to look at is that alot of hunters nowadays are liking the thumb hole in the sling instead of the hand loop, I am not a fan but talking to a couple of guys that bought mine suggested I should offer that because it seemed to be popular. Just a thought.

Here is a rough pattern that I used a while back. Ofcourse adjustments as you work with it will probably be necessary. It should get you going though. http://leatherworker...l=+rifle +sling Its on post #13

Thanks Country, I agree with ya. I am gonna try and adjust the pattern some to allow more space. I think your right about a 1/4" would be adequate.

Bob on my machine (4500 from Neils) I was having a little issue with back tacking not working right. Come to find out the little screws on the lever for going from forward to revers that you can see inside the machine on the slot (hard to describe) were actually loose. Once I got them good and tight the back stitch will stay in the same holes for a good little stretch. Probably not for a long stretch because of what you mentioned but much better then when I was first started using it.

Hey guys been a while since I have posted anything, been busy learning out how to make knives so only been doing leatherwork here and there for buddies. Finally had some time to do some holster orders. This is the first one Ive completed for the glock, and yes everyone is right the trigger gaurd is kind of a pain to get a good mold around. Anyways comments always welcome. I know the stitching didnt come out all that great. Keep forgetting if I cut the stitching channel the sewing machine will sinc the stitch too far in. Plus I am not quiet sure about the space between the grip and the top of the holster. It pulls fine but am thinking a little more space there would be nice.

Its not the knife that is the issue usually. I have had this happen with WC also. If I remember from posting this same issue a few years ago is that if the hide stays in the tanning solution a little too long or gets burned basically from it then you will end up with the core of the leather going on the verge of rawhide. It actually makes the core of this leather really tough and hence the cutting issue. Not so good for knife work but great for sheaths and such that require a stiff piece of leather. As far as the cutting utinsel thing its always gonna be what you feel comfy with. I personally hate using shears except for the thin stuff, utility knives very very rarely because I personally cant control them except in straight lines and dont like changing blades. I love my round knives, have several of different shapes and sizes and I have very good control of them. Took a while but got there. Ofcourse thats what works for me and cant say it will work for anyone else.

This is a great idea. Guess I stopped back in at the right time. Was thinking would a piece of plexi that had a gradient color work as well? Thinking it would be a little tougher and would have very fine control. Gonna have to play with this.

Good looking stuff Arbalet, I like the first one the best. Its a interesting design.

Thanks for sharing Boma, always love looking at your work. Its so clean and concise.

Very clean looking stuff. Great work. Had a questions, what size needle and what machine are you using. Your stitching looks really good and the back stitching part looks really good to. I seem to keep goofing that part up, it doesnt turn out to bad but not quiet as neat as yours.

Outstanding as always. Really like the different color in the flowers. Kind of sets it off. Great lacing as well.

Well you used some nice looking leather, looks nicely stitched both of which puts it above about 90% or more of the standard production crap out there. Also when compared to alot of the stuff being sold as "custom leather work" with which quality is questionable yours looks very good. I took a long while before I started selling things, still only do occasionally because of my day job and house remodel. However alot of craftsman seem to get to the point of just being able to assembly something then they are off and selling there stuff without learning to refine it a little and get more of a professional look (not saying just neat and clean, to me chuckbarrows stuff allthough rustic and dated looking is still very pro looking). You have a nice neat clean product that looks good. Good luck.

It depends on what the customer wants really. Most of the ones I have scene that are of any quality have the end covered.

Excellent job Arbalet, that is a great piece of art to be depicted on leather.

Yeah the chinese manual is crap. Ryan included a kind of manual basically a bunch of pictures and a few instructions which has been very helpful when I started. The chinese manual is only decent for finding parts incase you need to order something.

Looks great Ed as always. Know how ya feel, think I broke my hand about week and a half ago, still waiting for it to heal so I can properly push a round knife. Sucks when its your dominant hand that gets screwed up. What do you like to seal yours up with.

Looks great, what did you color the pattern with? Great forming also.

Great looking stuff, very clean.

Great looking stuff.

You dont require one but as others have said it makes it look even. All of my projects that I started out with out a back stitch are still working just fine today. As I mentioned earlier the only way the beginning stitch is going to come loose is if the thread is cut or breaks for some reason. I can see how it would look more even if you did the same thing at the beginning and end though. I will keep that in mind for future projects. Now machine stitching is another story.

That makes sense, just serprised at the quality you recieved. Ofcourse I have had to get my HO from other places besides them but the quality was still good for the most part. Too bad I dont have room or money to order the amount of hides I would have to get from them to cover my different uses. Back to the OP's question it would depend on style of belt you are making and personal preference, durability, and everything else. If your going to be tooling the belts then vegtan. Personally I would go with a back or depending on if you have other projects you can use the side for get sides and use the top portion for belts then the lower portion for your other projects. Double coolattas or whatever they are called are nice as well. If you are not tooling and want a nice durable belt that you dont have to dye then look at things like english bridel,latigo, harness leather. Again you would have to get some samples to see if it is where you want to go. Most tanneries will give ya some swaths to show you the leather.

Prices are about the same or very similar. I got a 4500 or whatever you wanna call it from Neels saddlery darn I think it was about 8 months or so ago. Its been a while. Great machines. No complaints so far but then again I dont use it every day. Go with which ever is closer IMHO but either way you cant go wrong with either a cowboy or cobra.

That is a very odd statement. Wickett and craig and herman oak are about neck and neck as far as quality and what not. Both are way better then anything Ive gotten from or scene at tandy. Are you sure you didnt mix up your leathers? Also why didnt you get ahold of WandC if the leather was that bad?