MADMAX22

Not sure if any of these would be a viable option but is the pfaff 561 needle feed or something else, there is one on the denver cl for 550. This juki also https://denver.craigslist.org/bfs/5520483606.html although more expensive at 800. I am not sure what those go for. Goodluck with your search.

Sorry guess my question was a little confusing. Right now I am using chap hides (biker chap hides to be specific). Originally I tried some 2.5oz belting leather and it was just too hard to form around all the bends and what not. I am basically trying to find a good quality upholstery/seat leather. There are about a million options out there. I am looking for anyone who does seats that has experience with this type of leather and has any recommendations. I ride, and have always had leather seats without issue. I personally cant stand vinyl even with some of the benefits that can be had with it. Thanks for all the input guys, it is appreciate novice or experienced.

Just a friendly bump to see if anyone has any suggestions. I used some biker chap hide from SFL but its a little on the thick side. Has anyone used the WC english bridle that they will split down to 2oz? Curious how it is to work with when split down to that thickness.

It will handle those projects just fine. Remember though the 155 does NOT have reverse. Also if it does have a clutch motor it will haul some butt. A servo motor is a nice addition.

If you decide to get a new machine and part out or sell your old one I could use a couple of screws for mine. Sorry dont have any input on how to fix the issues.

Dan I am probably going to put a servo on this one eventually. The clutch motor is actually not to bad on this guy, I can regulate pretty easy compared to the 211 Ive got. Right now I want to get one of those 500GRs or similar for the 441 clone since I need the most control on that guy, then take that POS servo motor and put it on the 211 after it gets adjusted/fixed up. Once I get a few motorcycle seats done I should have enough play money to look at picking one up for the 31 if I figure out I need it. Its kind of cool having the old singer motor on the 31, I know it shouldnt matter but kind of nice with all the original stuff on it.

Thanks guys. Suzelle it did come with a dual thread stand we just took it off when loading it and I havent put it back on yet. Was running thru a couple layers of denim and it is doing good. I need to get use to it not being a walking foot though as thats all Ive really ever used. Little bit of a learning curve but relatively easy. Its fun restoring or in this case just cleaning up basically older machines. Now if I just had more time.

Couple more pics

Well had an impulse buy, picked this little guy up on craigslist for $80. If i remember correctly its a 1946 year 31-15 with the converted treadle table and knee lift. Had apparently been sitting in a room for a long time. I took a gamble and picked it up just upon inspection. Paid off I hope. There are a couple of screws missing which I need to peruse a manual and see if I can find the right ones. Got it cleaned up for the most part and heavily oiled. Gonna get a roller foot kit to put on it so I can sew thin leather like wallet interiors and such. Its a little easier to control then my 211 for small things and I think it looks good to boot. It had enough fuzz inside to make up a couple of dead mice I think. It cleaned up real nice. Pretty sure the original clutch motor is on its way out but still performs ok. Stitches are nice and even.

Have you thought of using some super 77 instead of barge or similar? When I do belts since they are flat I will lay them out and spray both the liner and body at the same time, they go together in a few minutes after spraying and no issues with glue coming out anywhere. I still use weldwood for things that require precise glueing of portions of the work but use the spray where I can.

I have an older 4100 or whatever they are. It does fine with 6oz leather as long as you make the proper adjustments. I am using mine right now for my motorcycle seats where it stitches 2 or 3 layers of 3oz leather and no complaints so far when it comes to the stitching part of it. Wizcraft has a few post/threads on getting them setup to sew thinner leather with smaller thread. I personally am using 207 thread at the moment for my projects.

The 211s are nice. I have an old 211G155 so no reverse which kind of sucks but other then that the machine is a beast. The clutch motor on these flies so slowing it down is a must. One trick is putting a foam pad under the pedal (I use a piece of pipe insulation the anti freeze foam wrapped in a towel) this allows you to slowly feather the clutch easier. I think either the 211 or 111 if in good mechanical order would suit you fine, just have to work with any short comings of an older machine. Ofcourse Bob or Wizcraft would be the guys to talk to about what is best between the two.

Good lookin stuff. Eddie yes they are done the same way, I personally bevel the edges at a 45 roughly, mark the stitch line and glue together, then stitch the two, once done trim and burnish the edge. Not sure if outlaw did it the exact same way but gives ya an idea.

Thanks Redcent. RIP Chuck. He was a very knowledgeable man when it came to old style techniques and that period life in general and did amazing work both in leather, beading, and knife making. Was always finding time to help young or beginning craftsman learn and figure out techniques, answering questions and providing insight. I hope his books and dvds will continue to be offered to future craftsman to pass on his wealth of knowledge.

Ya can get that look by either carving the outline, beveling inward, then back grounding the space inside of your outline basically or you can do just a backgrounding within your design and can get a similar look. Personally I find doing the carving then beveling inward and backgrounding to be the neatest look. Assume thats how he did it, I could be wrong.

Great looking pieces. If ya dont mind what leather did you use for the "B" seats. Really like the look of it. Thanks.

Hey all been a long time since Ive been on the forums. Have not done leather work in a while because of the standard life issues. Somehow got rangled into doing a cafe racer seat for a buddy and that turned into doing a couple a month for his friend. I am using neoprene foam for the padding, still working on best way to do the pleats on the seats (they are the pleated top style). My issue is getting a good leather that is easy to form around the seats and that pleats well. The most recent one I actually cut strips of the foam and stitch between them makes a nice uniform pleat on top of the seat. I got a couple sides of W&C belting leather in 3oz but it is still pretty tough even when cased properly. I am looking more for something like chap sides in a way but good enough to last in a seat type application. That subtle hand of a chap hide seems to be what I am looking for but dont thing W&C or HO have that type of leather. I would like to use a decent quality leather, not necessarily gold plated wildabeast or anything but something that is both appealing to look at once finished and wears nicely. Thanks for any input into the subject.

I know this is an old thread but Ive been out of the loop for a while. Was wondering if anything came of these new improved plates. Would like to pick one up if anyone is making them.

Thanks Joel. They are sewn with my cowboy class 4. I did hand stitch the belt loops where they attach to the sheath, its just easier and I trust it a tad more for that kind of application.

Thanks guys appreciate the compliments.

Thanks Bling, its all hand stamped. The basketweave and the border are both barry king tools. I dont have many of his tools because they are pricey but they are so worth it.

Here are a couple of sheaths I finished recently for a knife I made. They are both WandC. The simple dangler has harness leather for the strap and is natural finished with a wax/oil finish. The second is tooled, slightly antiqued and clear lac finish. Both have died and wax burnished edges. The blade is about just under 11" long total. Hope you like. sorry for the crummy pics but missed the daylight and didnt have my box setup.

Always in awe at your work. Great job.

Great looking stuff in the class bearman style.

Thanks guys, yeah there are already a ton of photos and shes only a week old. I think the usb and dvd is still gonna be the best storage but would like to have some nice photos to be able to flip thru.