MADMAX22

I have been using the osbourn awls that tandy sells with some success. You will have to polish them though and make sure the point is nice and sharp and probably reshape them a bit to your liking. I did anyways. Also when stitching thicker leather like on a holster or sheath I will stab some bees wax about every 4 hole or so. This helps it glide in easier. For really thick leather I must admit I will resort to a small drill in a dremel to aid in getting the holes done up correctly. As far as nicer awls there are several that I want to get in the future but they arent cheap as far as awls go but from what I hear worth every penny.

Great job man, really like the lettering and the coloring you did on it. Turned out very well.

I hand stitch with linen thread and use the above back stitching method with the internal knots if you wanna call them that. After backstitching 2 or 3 times I trim the thread as close as possible and then use my stylus to push the ends into the awl hole just a tad. Never use any glue or anything but my stitching has never come loose or unraveled. Granted I have only been doing this for a few years but all my old projects are still holding together just fine. I assume they will for many years to come.

For the spray on stuff I stick to 3M either 77 or 99 I think they are. I have tried several different types of the spray on stuff and have consistently had the best hold with the 3M stuff. Its really not much more expensive then some of the other brands but always works. Just make sure you actually let the two sides get a little tacky before you press them together.

Wicket and craig is also very nice leather. The two leathers I can recommend are wicket and craig and herman oak. WandC also usually have sales going on where you can get sides for about $100. I do not know which I like better, they have there own appeal and I enjoy using either brand of leather.

Looks great Tom, I like the red and black as usual but that silver one really looks kickass as well.

Im with busted on this one. I prefer either sno seal or my own wax oil mix. I am more of the opinion lately that sealing the leather with a actual sealer works great for a little while but in the long run reapplying a oil/wax type sealer works the best. It is something that does not crack and over time since you can reapply it, it will keep working. The only caveat is that you have to make sure you or your customer actual reapply s it on a regular basis. After reading several of Chuckbarrows links he has posted here and on other forums the leathers of long ago lasted a very long time when they were cleaned with a type of saddle soap and then reoiled on a regular basis. This is for leather items that are used on a regular basis rather roughly.

One wicked looking setup. Kind of modern old school look.

That looks way cool. Would love to see it with the actual gun in it.

HAHA thats cool man, good one.

Thats a wicked cool looking seat man. That braid came out really nice.

Very nice. Love the old school feel that you inpart on your projects. Very nice detail work.

That is very cool looking. Great job. Would love to see it with the bow and arrows in it.

Great looking seats. That is alot of backgrounding.

Good looking stuff as always Boma. Always enjoy looking at your work.

Nicely done, very good lacing.

Desib it is actually how it comes from the factory. These bevelers do not have a groove in them. They are just a flat cut beveler. The only way to get around the mentioned cut they make is by using a smaller one for that size leather although it doesnt really solve the problem. It will still make the same cut just not as pronounced. The only place I use that type of beveler is going around the inside of radius cuts where you have to make a pretty sharp bend. They tend to cut on these areas pretty good. Other then that I use the same bevelers as Tina because these actually have a groove that cuts a rounded portion of the edge leaving you with good ground work to start your edging. I would recommend getting a keen edge beveler if your going with crafttools or go with a higher end beveler like mentioned earlier.

Good idea shorts and thanks TT. Well since I have them built I went ahead and threw on a quick coat of stain and am doing the coats of polyurethane floor cover. This serves two purposes. I get a nice shiny bench and I get to test out the stain poly combo since I have to use it on some wood that I am redoing some stairs with. Wanna see if it will match the floor I installed. Oh and if you ever get the chance to put in a hardwood floor yourself, get atleast 2 or 3 friends or save more money and have someone else do it lol.

Excellent looking stuff Dave. Love that holster and I gotta add that is one odd looking knife.

Sorry for late reply. I have read about that but have not tried it. With my abilities I think it would take alot more for me to try and get the measurements correct with that type of cut. I have a hard enough time as it is lol. If I get better at making them I will have to give it a shot.

Thanks buddy, yeah I went with wast level plus a couple inches. Seems to be a pretty good height. I understand what you mean about the bouncing. I think in the future down the road I will make a more solid one kind of like they do for wood working benches. I saw a bunch that had basically 2x4's glued together for the top then braced nicely for the feet. Looked like some hefty benches. I think that will be a project for next year though.

Great looking stuff. Hopefully one day I will find time to try out some furniture for the house. One heck of a conversation starter.