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MADMAX22

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Everything posted by MADMAX22

  1. Thanks Russ and TTcustoms. TT I have been really looking hard at how I finish my leather. I have read many of Christians (xian leather) post over at the biker forum and he loves using just picards and gets wonderful finishes, the same with many people here on this forum. Ive started using snoseal alot and then made a mix of bees and parafin wax with neatsfoot oil and a small amount of glycerine saddle soap. It ended up being about like hard butter but white in color. When I rub it in it goes clear and leaves a nice mellow sheen and seems to be pretty water proof. Also oils the leather nicely. The more I learn the more I like the idea of natural finishes like this because you can reapply to the leather without having to try and strip it or wait till the finish comes off over time. I think this in the long run will be better for the leather since oiling and waxing occasionally seems to be one of the better methods to keep leather looking good and lasting a long time. I still like neatlac for a nice high shine to things but have started to veer away from that as well. Plus its one less step to end up with streaks and such on the projects. Oh and I would like to add that it works excellent as a resist for feibings antique past.
  2. Thanks guys. Yeah I was happy with the color. I am still having a heck of a time with my miter joint stitching. This is only the second set of these joints that I have done but they are proving to be a little difficult to get the stitching to come out nice.
  3. Shrunken bull shoulders will have a texture like that but more pronounced. Several of the seat makers use it. It looks alot better then the texture on that particular seat. Other then that there are many chrome tanned upholstery style leathers that are embossed with all sorts of textured finishes.
  4. Hey guys just finished this one. Overall its 7oz lined with suede except on the ends where it is just doubled up 7oz. Dyed dk brown, finished with my wax oil mix finish I made. This ones for a friend who decided she wanted the same as a iron wall hanging they have. So I tried to match design as close as possible but still make it look decent in leather.
  5. I dont have a business and charge far less then what its worth but I have recently been trying to keep track of my time while making things. I am a somewhat slow tooler due to not that experienced so that has some factor in it. For say a 50" total belt (about a 34" waste I think) it takes me roughly about 5-8 hrs tooling, about 2-3 hours hand stitching (hand stitch everything right now), say about 2 hours for all finishing and edging. Throw in some reasonable fudge factor so around total 15 hrs say for a complete belt of actual work time. Personally I would be happy to get around $160 or so for a tooled nice belt. Then again like I said I dont have a shop and with limited experience. Once I get better I could see charging more. Ofcourse that depends on what the customer is willing to pay as well. Would love to see some pictures of your work by the way.
  6. Its all over the web it seems. If you had a larger pic the makers mark is that metal tab on the seat I think. Did not find any info on it though, real nice looking seat.
  7. Thats what I did with my recent holster I made. Spread the cut and put a thin coat of contact cement in there, let it tack up and then work the cut back together. You can still see the cut line but overall it doesnt look that bad, not something I would sell but for personal use its just fine.
  8. I think it looks good. I know sometimes things just dont get commented on doesnt mean its bad or good either way just not everyone gets motivated to post lol. Good luck with your stand this weekend.
  9. Pretty sure the second or third Al Stohlman case making books have one. Good series to get regardless, once you read thru all the books you could very well make your own pattern.
  10. Turned out pretty good busted, I am sure your butt thanks you lol.
  11. If you use neoprene it should be fine. I did mine over neoprene but it was a big cruiser type seat so a little different but it still worked.
  12. Thats a pretty cool idea. Looks great and Im sure alot of people are gonna take more then one look at it.
  13. Hey everyone, a friend of mine bought a summer type dress that has a strap that ties behind the neck. Its thin material that she doesnt like because it rubs her neck and is annoying. She wanted some kind of soft leather or something that would be more comfy to wear. I have never done anything like this so I am looking for ideas. I have available a couple of nice soft deer skin lining leather that I can use. The rest of my stuff is veg tan, suede splits, and a couple of upholstery leathers. I was thinking of using the deer hide but not sure if some kind of braid would work. Anyways throw up ideas or things that you have used in the past, I will appreciate it as will she. Thanks, EDIT here is a pic, she likes the beads so they will stay.
  14. I dont remember what the thread was but that was discussed in a older thread. Alot of makers do cut the ladies belts with a curve to them for one due to the ladies curves as opposed to those of men who general can handle a straight belt much easier. If anything it saves on the break in which will cause a belt to naturally take the shape of the wearer. I know this is more important in double layer belts but not sure if it is a real issue with single layer belts depending on thickness of the leather.
  15. Yeah I am wondering if that would be something that would benefit from using clips instead of belt slots. May be worth a try. Definitely a cool idea though
  16. Now those are some killer looking chaps. Excellent work
  17. Seat looks outstanding, great lacing. Interesting pattern for the holster. How does it work out when wearing it?
  18. When I use to tie flies I would get my stuff at a sporting goods store (back then there were fly fishing specific stores but they are rare nowadays), you can try the regulars like cabellas, maybe dicks, any other major brand may have a fly tying section. With fly tying your gonna pay a premium for a small amount since most are just getting the best portions of the feathers. The only skins I saw with feathers were usually the pheasant and it was just the males chest portion with all the nice long ones on it. Any of the turkey would just be individual feathers sold maybe 2 or 3 at a time. I am not sure of durability but I am sure it is minimal. I have scene old feathers and they usually dont hold up that well but turkey and goose feathers seem to do alright (basically any of the bigger ones). If I was looking for what I think you are I would start at a local taxidermy place and go from there. If you have any in your area.
  19. MADMAX22

    m&p40 3.jpg

    Burnishes pretty good. One thing though I used alot more saddle soap then I normally would. Once you get it a little wet and load it up with saddle soap it burnishes real nice.
  20. Looks good Butch, I really like that letter pattern.
  21. Ive gotten cocobo off of ebay before. Things like pen blanks (the solid ones) and Ive also used the small boards 1/4"x4"x15" or so. Just cut out the portion you need and shape it to what you will use it for. Its cheap and just takes a little elbow grease and you have a very nice edger/burnisher for your needs. So far I have liked cocobo the best for my needs. Wanted to add a pic of what I use now. One is a edge burnisher and I use the other end for misc stuff. It is cocobo. The other one is rounder and has a flat rounded off tip, I use both ends for molding. Ive only had that one for about a week or so and have just started using it but it works very well so far. I dont remember what type of wood it is. The awl is there just for size comparison.
  22. springfeild leather also carries a bunch of roo lace. I believe they have natural as well.
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