MADMAX22

Hey guys and gals, I am working on a quick rush project per say for a buddies son's birthday. I didnt know it was gonna be this friday so I am trying to piece together a project (gift) for him rather then go and buy something. Well I happened on to a picture drawing of an idea and started sketching and this is pretty much what I came up with. I have not tooled in a very long time so this was a very good refresher. Its going to be a biker style wallet when I am finished, its 7" by 7.5". What do you guys think of the outside of it so far? Decent idea or should I scrap the outside portion and try again. Sorry for the crummy pic, the little whitish speckles you see are the leather tone and aren't really apparent when looking at it in person. Oh yeah its a saddle tan base, with the robe gone over once with ox blood, then I went over the whole project with mahogany for the dark over layer. I oiled it but have not sealed it yet.

Rayban I have noticed it depends on the leather also. This was talked about in alot more detail in some other threads on it but basically it will vary depending on the amount of tannings in the leather. My tandy leather doesnt usually take it very well but my herman oak will darken even without oil to a nice black. Couple of things, make a really strong tea, coffee, walnut shell, various bark, ....... brew. If you give the leather a dip in this first then vinegaroon it, this will help with it taking the black. Also when your done with the vinegaroon I take mine straight to a bath of baking soda dissolved in warm water. The baking soda will make it more black after the rinse. Dont leave it in to long, I just do a few seconds becuase it can cause the leather to go to basic. Then I give it a rinse.

Unless you have some metal hardware in the holster go ahead and stitch it like you normally would, vinegaroon it, give it a baking soda quick wash if you do that then set it aside for a while to start drying. Once it gets some what less wet start your gun in it and get the basic shape going, then let it dry some more. It takes a little longer since it is thoroughly soaked usually. Wait till it gets pretty close to just damp and do your forming and it should form very well. I have done this before and it works for me. I have also carved and stamped it after vinegaroon but I just usually dont let it dry out first. Or do as suggested and brush it on afterwards, this works pretty good. Another thing I have noticed is if you do let it dry completely just wet from the flesh side and the leather will absorb the water quicker. Let it sit for a while to dispurse thruout then start your forming. ChuckBarrows is the one if you try pming him he may help ya out. He has many many years experience with vinegaroon.

That looks killer, the figure carving that is. The cuffs look pretty good too lol. Great job Freak.

Ha thought you misspelled it lol. Looks good, Ive been thinking of making a couple of mouse pads.

That turned out pretty good, I like the art work you did. That is a good idea for several projects like small cases and wallets.

I think you nailed it Barry, cant think of a better way to combine the two. Great tooling and colors. Im sure she will love it.

Looks like a beast, and I think your onto something Kingsx

That is very nice, I like. Not sure what I would do with it but a killer bag of some kind comes to mind. Looks a little 3d for holsters though. I would hold on to it until the right project raises its head.

First mistake I made with backgrounding was not letting the leather get dry enough, I was trying to do it while it was way to wet and it would basically just squish around.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 There ya go. I still have to do mine by hand but use a similer method. First edge then dye follow up with glycerine saddle soap then I shape with my wood edger that I made, usually this gives me a smooth round edge then follow up with some bees wax, take the jeans fragment or whatever to this and rub it in nice and good Once your all done with that it should look pretty darn good, I usually follow up with whatever I am sealing the belt with as this will put a final sheen to it.

Very nicely done Fritz. That stingray is really cool looking and love the edges you get.

Alot of poeple will have alot of different techniques and most work for them very well. Personally I would clean it up with some alcohol if you wish, this has helped my occasionally. Now some people will oil before dyeing, apply coat of oil and let sit till dry then dye. I personally usually dye it first then oil it but have been experimenting with both methods. I would use the pro oil dye as I like the pro oil dyes better then the regular version and that saddle tan is a very nice color. I like it alot for a mellow color or when antiquing. Once you finish with that then you will need to do some kind of resist for when you antique the project, either tan kote or atom wax should work pretty good. Once a coat or two is applied then apply the antique and do that how you see fit. The sealer will act as a resist for the high spots or the overall project but allow the antique to get into the crevices and such of the carvings. Once that is done apply your top coats of sealer with which ever you decide. Please practice this on something other then your project though, it takes a little while to get the hang of it and would be a shame to mess up on that seat, it is very nice. I like to use the sno seal as a good sealer that you reapply every once in a while. I have done projects with just that after dying and they turned out great. I have not played with it before doing antiquing so dont know how well that would work out. Also I do not have that much experience with seats, hopefully one of the seat gurus will chime in later today.

Looks like some nice skins, I only use this type of leather for inlays myself. Lizard looks really good in inlays for various things. I am not entirely sure how it would hold up being sewn to each other as the primary leather for a handbag. You will need the advice of the handbag experts.

Turned out really nice Andy. I agree with ya, the colors turned out great.

Thanks Rayban. yeah it should last a good long time. Well went ahead and tried a second attempt at it. Wanted to see if I could get the dye job a little better and do a little better at the stitching around the top of the slide area. I think I improved a bit. Here is the second one. Thanks for looking.

I agree with Doc, looks really good. I still have not taken on the challenge of zippers, one of these days maybe.

Great looking sheaths and knives. Does that duracoat hold up half way decent, it does give a cool look to that knife IMO.

Great work Ed, your carving always has alot of relief or definition (not sure of the right word) it always pops out at ya. Thats a good idea with the basketstamp also.

Buddy at work wanted me to make him a holster for his little backup. Its for in the small of the back carry which is a little odd to make a holster for with this gun. He found one picture on line somewhere so I kind of went off that (not sure who made it). Ive got one more coming thats almost done that will have that stitching line straightened out. I dont know why I curved it up, I think my template I made I carried thru onto the leather work. HO 7-8oz, linen 6cord, dyed dkbrown with a little bit of added black and cordovan. Was playing with colors a little bit and it still needs work, I think if I had a airbrush it would be just about right. What you guys think?

Ray about the only thing I use a dremel for right now is cleaning up edges before I start my edging process. I use the little drum sander that goes on them and will work it along the edges to sand then nice and flat. Then I go about doing the edge work. Helps to get a good smooth base to start working with.

That looks like alot of work. Great job and wonderful tooling as always.

I primarily use weld wood, get it at lowes or home depot. Not sure if it is available in CA or not. For thin stuff like pig lining I will use 3M 99.