Thor

I do have them and I'm not too happy with em. The reason being is that the aren't polished. Once they are, they are okay.

Dwight, I might be wrong, but it looks to me like a standard straight cut vest with a collar added to it. Modifying the one in Tandy's vest pattern pack might do the trick. Along with the pics on this page http://www.leather-shop.biz/mens-leather-vests/mens-leather-vest-bonanza-style-mlv75/ you should be able to copy it. If you need the vest pattern, send me a PM.

Very nicely done!

What you can do is either to just convert the jpg to a vector file yourself with a software like inkscape or go here http://seeklogo.com/tag.html?q=police and see if one of them fits your bill. If it doesn't follow this search thru https://www.google.de/search?q=police+badge+vector+free&num=50&newwindow=1&client=ubuntu&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwisxO3o_MHLAhWodpoKHQqABM8Q_AUIBygB&biw=1229&bih=802

Review the pics here. This should help you. https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/archery/

Looking very nice Yin. Never done that before, so here's a question for you. Is that extra step of stitching the liner actually needed or wouldn't it just do if it would be stitched along with the edge?

The CEO was replaced recently. I would assume it was done for a reason.

If you are interested in a good book on Sheridan tooling etc. go here https://www.facebook.com/Bob-Park-Custom-Leather-131291347030087/ Bob's book has quite some insight on designing. Not on the actual tooling. A good book on tooling is Sheridan Style Carving by Bill Gardner.

Oops sorry http://pin.it/qhUsnAV

Bob, I'm not sure if this is what you have in mind, but I came across this picture and thought it might work. Along with dirkba's tutorial it may work.

It also depends on the leather being used. I've seen it from 1/8 to 1/4". And yes there are a few in the pattern section.

I must have missed the part about the antique gel. Seconded what he wrote. The gel isn't waterproof at all.

It doesn't really answer my questions. Anyhow, if I have a veg tan leather from some questionable source or I don't know what has been done to it I usually clean it with oxalic acid before I dye or finish it. With a bracelet like yours I'd burnish the flesh side first, or it will suck up too much dye. Unlike what many others recommend I don't use anything else then water for burnishing and I actually burnish it with the machine. Goes fast and even. After that I'd let it dry for a bit and dye it. On the other hand - do you really need to dye the flesh side? Wouldn't it be sufficient to just oil and finish it? The color isn't visible anyways.

Well done. I especially like the the fact that you can use it for storing as well as on the saddle.

First question would be, what kind of veg tan is it? Where is it from? Did you prepare the leather as necessary if it was overloaded with byproducts as many of them are, preventing proper dying...

Check the saddlery section on eBay Italy first. Other than that you'll find it here https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de/de/Punzen-Stempel/Zubehoer

Sorry I'm too far away to do this for you, but I forwarded the link to a fellow leatherworker. For the same reason I didn't offer to make a slit ear headstall for you. Shipping charges would almost be as expensive as the headstall itself.

Okay, not putting the work of your maker down. Not at all! Just my observation and what I would consider of fixing this. The background was stamped while the leather was still too wet. I assume that he was dying it when the leather was still too wet as well. If you are happy with the tooling, leave it as is. If it was mine I'd be improving the background at least cause there's a "border" around each element that I wouldn't want to have plus a "step" around the actual border (or is this the stitching?). That's a matter of taste. So either you like it or not. Fixing the color... I would give it a good wash to get rid of all crap (oils, wax, etc). If that is Fiebing's dye I believe it to be the dark brown tone. Get confirmation on that before you buy the color. Then I would use an oil based dye (dark brown) and re-dye the background using an artist brush. Have it well dried before dying (not in the sunlight) for at least a full day. You will have to oil it again, but wait with that until the dye has really settled and don't do that before you didn't achieve an even color saturation in the background. You will have to buff it to get rid of the excess dye. If you want to protect it against weather etc. I'd use Fiebing's bag cote in this case. Don't get this and the oil on your suede leather. Well this is what I would do, maybe someone else has a better idea. Oh btw. are you going to wear these on your day to day job?

Aw sorry, misunderstood what you want. In Texas I would contact Hadlock and Fox and go from there http://www.hadlockfox.com/. If they don't have it in stock they will be able to point you in the right direction at least.

Awfully long screws you're looking for. Did you try the bookbinder's sources? They are working with such long screws frequently and would be my first stop. Other than that, have you tried Ohio Travel Bag? I believe I've seen them in their catalog, but I'm not absolutely sure.

Vaquero, we all make mistakes at times and even though TinkerTailor mentioned it already pictures would really help. Streaky leads me to the assumption that antique gel/wax was used on the yokes, which in your case (working cowboy) would be a wrong choice as it is water soluble. Beyond that??? Sorry this is a rough guess already and pictures are really needed.

Birdman, thanks for notifying me of that post. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=68856&p=449653 This is a manufacturer within Europe. Their website doesn't provide any information as of yet, so no real information available at this time.

Tops, you can insert the active link here. http://www.horsecordovan.com/ Since members here aren't only from the US, but from all around the world it would be interesting to know what your shipping charges are for shipments within Europe as well as to other regions in the world such as Australia or African countries even.

Tracing film is quite expensive and can be replaced with architecture paper and be protected with sticky foil (what ever the name is for that). Replacing the nylon edge slicker with a wooden one may be a better choice. It may be a good idea to get a burnisher for your power drill right away. If you are planning to dye your straps yourself you'll need something to buff them as well. Buffing by hand takes too much time. At least it does for me. So I'm using something like this. You may have to have at least two. One for darker colors and one for lighter colors.

Great, congrats from me as well!