TinkerTailor

Those are the ones i was thinking of. Having brain-block last nite.

I modify hardened tools all the time with cheap diamond needle files from harbour freight. They are like 15-20 bucks a set. Also, have you tried using a small dowel in a dremel/drill to burnish the hole? Can't remember who but someone makes these burnishers that come to a point for burnishing holster slots.

For copper rivets, i usually go for the smallest ball pein i can find. I have this little cute 6 or 7 once one that is just perfect for not bending the rivet over. I need to limit my force to finesse the rivet. I have a habit of using hammers a little aggressively........I generally do my doublecaps with the one hit wonder technique........BAAAMMM. flat on both sides. For this i generally use a 16 ounce round head autobody hammer because the head is wide (1-3/4") and flat with a slight dome and does not mark with my agressive hits. Usually sinks the rivet just below the surface as well. Speaking of which, i gotta go polish my hammer

Reminds me of a joke about how to fit 3 elephants into a fridge, but it is long winded, and i am not today.....another time. Its better in person anyways.

I am lazy, i just click the "more results from this site" under the leatherworker.net results in google if i just plug in the search terms..

Been saving these for just the right thread: And here is a wood sewing machine....

Just curious, that thread stand, is there a hole through the center of the spool tray? Like could the tread pass up the outside of the spool and then down through the center? This method is used rarely. That pipe thing sticking up in the center made me think of this. Not that i am advising to run it this way, just a curious mind at work.

One of the tricks with wet forming is to get the leather into the basic shape when it is really wet, and then go back in later when it is half dry to put in details. At this time you can use moddling tools, or the handle of a butter knife, or whatever is smooth and the shape you need, and get in there and push the leather where you want it to go. Timing is the art, you want the leather wet enough to mold but dry enough to stay where you put it, when you create the definition. Its just like stamping, to early after casing, and the impression does not stay, too late and you get no impression. This was done this way: First pic is initial molding, next is after detailing. I want to say i did the detaling 2-3 hours later. This is 16 oz leather btw.. This little holster for my thread nippers is done the same. I defined the shape after forming. I do these types of things when i test things out, or test dyes etc. May as well make something if i am experimenting. I figured out a finish to keep the leather very natural looking, and also found out what i needed to adjust on my machine. Bonus is the nipper shieth i use every day, just don't look at the back.....Who says experiments have to be useless scrap after? And here is the 'Tinker Hanvil':

I have this weird 3 lb forged "hand anvil?" i found in a junk shop that is awesome. I will post pics tonight. I also use a marble rolling pin as an anvil and as a tooling surface for curves.

I get linen thread locally from a shoe supply wholesale place. $50 per month min to maintain an account......Unless you show up in person and sweet talk. Mail order, or US suppliers, others will have to chime in.

Mail order bellys i would never do, However in person, when going through the stack, i flip them all over and look for smooth back. Depending on what they are from, sometimes due to hide shape there is quite a bit of good leather that stuck down below the straight edge of the bend that was cut off. This stuff is great for molding smaller projects from. I usually find maybe 2-4 out of a stack of 10 that are worth buying. I have made some nice stuff out bellys. This is from a belly: It is a bicycle lock holster. Sold for $200. Took me 5 hours. $20 dollar belly , 2.50 for clasp. Btw, got 2 more fronts out of same belly Bellys don't pay eh?

This is one situation (and only so far) where i think the speedy stitcher is the best, fastest and easiest way. With a long enough needle, it would be easy to get the backside(inside) thread through the loop. And who cares what the backside looks like.....its inside.

Linen thread comes unwaxed, big and fat and can be dyed easily. Poly and nylon thread theoretically can be dyed but the coatings and bonding agents can be a problem, depending what they are. Btw, 554 is a bit big for that machine. It will do 415 comfortably. I just checked a 27/250 size needle and it is straight, no taper. A size 30/330 has a needle diameter bigger than the hole in the needlebar. Probably don't exist. If they do, they will not be cheap or common. I don't remember seeing them. What are you sewing anyways? Phone leathermachineco and ask them what the max limits of your machine are, before you spend too much time and money on this. Btw, 415 is no slouch.

Both look hand stitched. The top for sure, at least the ends of the stitching were done by hand, no way to do that wrap around the outside with a machine. With seams that short, it would take almost as long to add needles to the machine thread to finish them as it would take a pro to hand stitch it. The second, Looks like it may be machine stitched, but the stitch length changes as the seam progresses yet the backtacks are perfect. I cant see them stitching on the pocket on the inside all the way around, It seem too complex Why put all that effort into the hidden stitches and then rivet on the strap?I wonder if the holster pocket was riveted on as well. The strap is, why not rivet on the pocket? Or perhaps the mag pocket is a complete separate piece and only has a stitch at top and bottom to hold it on.

It looks great for a first project. One thing, I would switch snap suppliers if i were you. It appears that that one rusted alot just from the wet forming. I always use solid brass to help prevent this. The plating on brass/nickel plated steel will always get damaged on the inside from setting them, and they rust. Cheap ones rust faster. I also put either a light coat of laquer (with a small brush) or wax on the the little spring in the snap to prevent rust. They are always steel. I also have a small collection of little bars, blocks and plates of steel i can put inside things as mini anvils to attach the hardware after forming.

Other than the footprint the machine base bolts to, the bolt pattern of which is machine specific, I think cylinder arm machine table shape is open ground. How much space do you need around the arm, and how much room do you need to put things down? The U shape is just a clearance cutout in a standard table to allow an operator to swing bags and things around the arm and still have a spot for a coffee cup.....without needing to buy a new table. The sewing mechanic whacked it out with a jigsaw, and finished the edge (maybe). Be careful if you do this yourself to ensure your table is still going to be structurally sound. Table design varies, and cutting out the chunk could jeopardize the strength, depending on what style of table you are looking AT. Look at the cobra/cowboy/techsew heavy stitcher tables, they have the arm just hanging out into thin air on a single post mount. I have seen quite a few tables for cylinder arms made by moving the left leg of a standard table 2-3 feet to the right and chopping off the left half of the table. This leaves the pedals hanging out to the left under the freed up cylinder. There is a thread called "Anyone built their own industrial table?" Look at the pics in there. There are quite a few examples to look at. Also look at some of the threads the user "Uwe" has made, he does some pretty cool cylinder arm tables and attachments. He sells some too.

This might come across as heresy on this site, but i have seed stiffer thicker veg tan cut with a band saw. You can get knife edge blades for them. The tables tilt to any angle. I found Starrett ones here for 15 bux: http://www.bandsawbladesking.com/bandsaw-blade-deals/band-knives/starrett-band-knives-razor-edge-band-knife/ Starretts are good, never dealt with the seller.

It looks like the original strap has more holes, just adjust it and oil it and it will probably be good to go.

Ohio travel bag has different length ln20 snaps i believe. Link in the banner at top of page.

What Colt said. As well, you may just want to give up, cut your losses and dye the whole hide, both sides, black or something other dark enough to cover the splotches. Use it for a different project. Get a new hide and try again. To attempt to even-out a dye job that has bled through partially in places sounds like a nightmare. You could very likely spend the cost of another hide in time and dye only to fail anywhoo.

What is more interesting is the price of them on ebay......I saw some for 50-60 canuck bucks each........I wanted a few till i saw this, now i want lots, but for cheep..

Google has been good to me today.. If you find repops, or a good stash of originals, let me know.

Ask and you shall receive, the anchor stamp was the giveaway. Do a google image search for "North & Judd tackaberry"

Just found this thread, and never thought to use this trick on a leather machine, although i use it day in and day out when i am working with canvas on my old no reverse treadle machines.......It was in an old white rotary manual. Is this the narnia you speak of? The world of black japanned cast iron and gilt logos?

Tandy sells 5-cord in 25 and 280 yard rolls. Dont know quality.