TinkerTailor

Didn't juki also keep making some machines under both names for a while?

I just might have a few of them black plastic musical plate things around myself. I even have ones made of shellac.....I have thought more than once of getting an old juke for the shop and filling it with my 45s. If I ever have a public storefront this is going to happen fer sure.

If these guys dont have parts they know who will: http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/ Now its tea time for me... and when i say tea i really mean "Sunday tea" which has a significant bit more whisky than the other teas.

There are a bunch of the juki clone makers. Cobra,cowboy,artisan,techsew,,and many others. The real adler or juki parts are going to be more money. If it is this bobbin, you can get the cloned parts in many places.

Looks to be the same bobbin that comes in juki 441 style clones and also the Adler 205-350. Mine measures 23mmx30mm. The diameter is exactly 7/8" and the width is1-1/4".

Violin is what my machine wants. Katica Illenyi is his favourite. She is absolutely amazing. A little tango to keep those feet stepping right: And this one blows my mind, how in tune she is with the music. In this video she is playing a theremin, an instrument controlled literally by waving your hands near it. Imaging being this in tune with a sewing machine:

I like this blog post a lot, much truth there. The only thing i would also like to know is the story on the one in the barn. I have to put on the right music for my machine (not me...) Lisa Sorrel has a great video about the music her machine listens too. I also must be careful how many cups of coffee I've had.There is a delicate balance between too slow to react and too twitchy control the motor.... Btw, it looks like the belt alignment is a little off on the artisan though it could be the angle of the photo. If you loosen the pinch bolts and slide the handwheel out on the shaft a little, It should make the belt track straighter. The machine may be quieter and the belt will probably last longer. I know mine is quieter when i have it straight.

Whet i searched for rodi round knife i got nothing back but i did find some things using rodi leather cutter as a search. Landis usa lists rodi 61 blades, don't know if the same: http://landisusa.com/us-en/parts-accessories/knifes-plastic-leather-cutter.html These guys have a rodi 50 for sale used, may know of european blade supplier. I know if i bought that machine off them, I would want a source for blades to go with it..... http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/skiving/leather-goods-and-automotive-interieur/details/4602/

It looks great, and the carving is really nice, however when i made my personal bag with the same side seams, the edges ended up turning out over time and the face and back didn't stay as flat as I like. With the same thickness of leather on the front and side the seam will end up sharing the corner stresses evenly, curling the edges of the front and back. I have found that the two ways to fix this is to use leather that is a grade lighter weight on the sides or skive the edges back on the side pieces to thin them some so they flex instead of the front and back. Just a tip for the next one you make.

Here are some, perhaps one of them will work: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/blades-for-round-knife-machines/

I figured the cheap motor control circuit is struggling with the 50hz power in the uk, being designed for 60hz.

Notice the beeby-squeel from the motor in the video. Don't buy that one, I believe after watching it is a tysew.

Drop a couple clean ball bearings into the bottle and it helps get the settled portions broken up and distributed with the shaking. Come to think of it, even nuts and bolts would work. I just had a thought, If i built a holster for a dye bottle i could attach it to the handwheel of my machine so I get mixin with the stitchin......

It is amazing. I personally couldn't use it how ever, not because it is too nice, I think nice things were made to be used. Because of the number of times I have in a millisecond grabbed the wastecan and squeegeed the spilled coffee/smoothie/dye/paint/whatever off of the bench/desk/table into it. I would have forgotten it was on there and wrecked it in a fortnight.

For three machines this close, I would hope they would deliver and set them up as well. Especially in a retail storefront . In some industries, if you outfit your retail business visibly with somebodies equipment, and put up a banner or something saying "Made exclusively on Johnny Joes Juicers" it is good for a discount or even free product, just saying.

I am pretty much ambidextrous, but right handed. I play hockey left but golf right and im pretty good at both. I have taught myself to saddle stitch both ways, and I will choose whichever is easier for that area of the project. I have wanted a matching set of lefthanded groovers myself, because there just seems to be spots on everything that I want to get to from the other side. There are a few standard leather tools I prefer to use in my left hand interestingly. The tandy safety skive is one. I find if i cut away from me with my left hand i can see what i am doing better and when I blow on it, the shavings clear better it seems.

If you are in Quebec, Give Techsew a callhttp://www.techsew.com/machinery/reconditioned-industrial-sewing-machines.html, they buy and sell used machines, I am sure they can get you hooked up and they can support it. Ronnie probably has a 211 or two stashed somewhere... Plus, If you look at their site they sell tandy tools for cheaper than the membership prices at tandy They also have some osbourne tools and decent thread......... Simard sewing also sells used leather machines in quebec, see here: http://simards.com/usedsewing.html To the others who are quoting machines, keep in mind that the budget of 400 canuckistani pesos is only 300 yankee bucks right now...........

Here is a dealer in Canada with what you need used: http://simards.com/usedmisc.html http://simards.com/useddiecut.html

Finding all three used for a decent deal is not that common, specially together as a package. Gonna take a little time and/or legwork I suspect. These machines are above reach of the average hobbiest so there are not that many floating around here. You gotta make a lot of belts in your basement to justify a strap cutter. Many of the machines people use on here are either worn out and they deal with it or were rebuilt over the course of months slowly finding parts. This is the way we save money, sacrifice time. As a business, time is money. Spend well once, or buy twice. Frequently spending more is actually cheaper in the long run when running a business. In business it is a good idea to have someone who can service it and get parts to reduce down time when stuff breaks. Downtime for finding parts for an old machine that is no longer made, but was cheaper to buy, may cost you a lot more. Down time is lost revenue. For most people on here, leather is a hobby and hobbies cost money. Downtime saves money......Not the case for you........If I buy a broken machine for 100 bucks, and then spend 50 bucks a week on parts to get it going, the wife will never notice. 6 months later when the machine is perfect, it ended up costing me $1300 and she never noticed, instead of paying 800 new and having a mad wife............. As to finding the machines on this site, these production type machines don't sell very often and quite a few people just won't ship the bigger stuff, and try to sell local. Occasionally a saddle shop sells out and all the equipment ends up on here, but that has not happened in a while that I know of. Remember again, this is a hobby so if it seems like work, people won't do it. Hobbies are what you do when you are not working Two suggestions to get you some machines right now: Call leathermachineco, or toledo sewing or weaver leather. Cambell-randall is another option. All four sell these machines new or used. Leathermachineco is in California and will finance. The others may finance too. With leathermachineco, you could have machines by the end of the day probably and Steve is known for great service. Also think of who else uses stuff, paper print shops and cardboard box factories use clicker presses, and other industries also use strip cutters, they are not necessarily just leather machines. Look to suppliers of those industries as well. Creativity in your search will likely pay dividends. Call your leather supplier and see if they can recommend a used machine dealer or something. It is in their best interest to help you get machines because if you double your product output, you also double your leather orders...... Good luck with the search..

The fact is, there is going to be NO best machine at that budget. All will have significant drawbacks, and you will need to deal with these. Things like feeding issues, marking issues, punching power issues or thread weight limitations. If I were you I would hand stitch a few things, sell them right now to all your relatives and friends for them to give as gifts during the holidays and sock away the money. Look to spend more like 1000-1500 when all is said and done. Unless you get lucky on the used market any machine you get now for 400 bucks will either break or make you want to break it.

I have to add that i have the non needle position techsew motor, and while it does not have the knob speed control, once I played with the settings and got the right size belt for the small pulley on my speed reducer, I have smooth control from 1 stitch every 2 all the way to probably 200-300/min. This is more than fast enough for my work, and no need for the knob. For some strange reason my 5100 came with the belt fitted to the middle pulley on the reducer, and I found the speed was notchy when it got slow, presumably because the motor didn't have enough rpm. No lack of punch, just lack of smooth speed control. I am pretty sure that this motor could turn this machine at its top speed on the smallest reducer pulley if I set it that way, so there is no need for the extra speed of the middle pulley. Besides, a 441 at 900 stitches a minute is a scary thing to behold........If you set it to 3 stitches per inch, that is 25 feet per minute or just over 1/4 mile an hour.......Yeehaw..... Other than the belt thing, i have no complaints with this motor. If I am doing detailed work and I want to limit the top speed for safety, I put a 2x4 under the pedal....

College sewing sells the jack motors in europe. Apparently College Sewing also carries the Ho Hsing servos but does not advertise them on the web. They do advertise ho hsing clutch parts and non servo motor stuff however. They would fit between the family/jack motors and the efka both in price and quality.

The one i use most often for seams is an old flat face autobody/sheetmetal hammer. Anything with a very slight dome to the face and a smooth surface should work. Practice hitting with the hammer flat as possible to prevent marks from the edge of the face. I have never bought a "leatherworking hammer". I do scour the bins at thrift stores and pawn shops for suitable hammers. I did find a cobblers hammer in a scrap bin with no handle once, handles are cheap. And all my hammers are special......

watch some of the videos by nigel armitage on youtube. He has gone into every detail of stitching