BruceGibson

I'd have to quote Bruce Johnson--very good advice. I can't add anything to that. And I've had great luck with the UPS Store.

Very nice!

Dê as boas-vindas, Luis!

On smaller items like sheaths and holsters I would say yes. Belts are a little long in my opinion, but I've used my Dremel for smaller items. It worked very well. Just watch your RPM's to avoid burning your leather.

Hi, Luis! Welcome to the forum. I made a rifle sling a few months ago. It's nothing fancy, but if you'd like to take a look you may find a few things that would work for you...or maybe a few things to avoid. Here's a link: http://gibsonprorodeo.com/SLING.htm

Well done, Don!

All the good holster makers are booked from 4-months to two years. The key is not only a quality product, but accurate delivery date forecasting. If you can provide those two things you'll do well.

You look damn good in that bikini, too!

Looks good, Johanna. You rock!

I agree with Bruce...the other Bruce.

Yep. Kevin's production's about to fall WAY off. :biggrin:

I cut all mine 1/16" UNDER. The buckles are right on, so if I cut my stuff the same dimension, it won't fit through. The 1/16" undercut allows just enough space. Going over doesn't make any sense to me at all.

The only place I know of that we even HAVE rocks is out on the jetties at Panama City Beach. Beyond that, we're just one big sandbox.

Nice job, Regis. Have you done anything with that Toro 3000 yet? I haven't tried the Bick 4/dye brew yet, but I'm gettin' psyched up to give it a go!

That's a hell of a nice statement! Awesome work, Mike!

Mighty fine ride! I reckon I'll just sit up here in the cold, Northern part of the state and turn green with envy. At least my four-wheeler won't fall over with me. :biggrin:

Very nice! Those just look cool.

Jerry & Steve are great. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them both. The Artisan crew rocks!

Welcome to the party! And I'm staying away from the donuts.

I'm no expert, so all disclaimers apply. If an expert happens to show up, please feel free to discard any erroneous or useless info that I may have provided. In spite of all that, here's what I do... On something like a knife sheath or gun holster, I tool/stamp first, then mould (carefully) in order to minimize damage to the design. Also, I don't soak the leather for more than a few (maybe 10) seconds. Lately, I don't even do that. I'll just run it under hot tap water and let it rest a few minutes. The re-dampening itself has little effect on the tooling. It's also a good idea to layout your stamping/tooling so that it's outside the areas you'll be boning/moulding if possible. Otherwise, it's gonna get squished.

Very nice!

What Art & Bruce said. And I always stitch around on some scrap before I do anything with a "real" project, too. I can't speak for other folks machines, but mine likes to adjust itself and spring surprises on me after it's sat for a few days. Something about a full moon, or planets aligning or something.

I use leather for a liner--weight depends on how thick you want your product to be. And the Hitler image...you could lose that.

Fine work, Tim! What are you using for stitching? Hand or machine?

That is a terrible illustration. I'd recommend grabbing the reading glasses (in my case) and get everything set up. Then just keep working at it until it falls into place. Once you've got it started, then everything will fall into place. I wish I had a better answer and illustration, but I've never done that one.