BruceGibson

If I were in this position, knowing what I know now, I'd go with the Artisan Toro 3000. I have a 4000P that everyone here knows I'm totally satisfied with. Kevin, "K-Man" uses his 3000's continually and endorses them. I use my 4000 to punch through two layers of 13/15 oz skirting plus a layer of 3/4" sheepskin, and it handles that like a walk in the park. I think the 3000 would handle (easily) the projects you're doing now, plus have the capacity to take on most anything you'll want to do in the future.

That's amazing. I wouldn't have a clue where to begin.

Welcome aboard, Dusty! Well-reasoned, terrific post!

Heck no! Down here that's a food group!

Great stuff, Ashley! Every time I come here I become more and more humble. Or is that "humbled?"

Despite Monkey's attempts to teach me to post pictures I'm still just a link provider. Anyhow, I took on a rifle sling challenge and this is what happened...please feel free to fire away. It's all Hermann Oak with 3/4" sheepskin for the shoulder pad liner. Except for the sheepskin it's an exact copy of a commercial sling the customer had: http://gibsonprorodeo.com/SLING.htm

Regis, I DO glue the face and the liner together before I sew. Actually, if it's tooled/stamped, I do that first. Then, I dye them (if they're not left natural) and once it all dries for 24-hours, I'll glue them up. They 24-hour, or "overnight" drying period is one of my personal quirks. They actually dry up faster than that, but I always wait a day because if something can get screwed up, I've got a knack for doing it. Seriously, if there's any moisture left in it at all, the machine will mark it all up. MatthewD, I use 7/8 and 8/9 ounce Hermann Oak skirting. I love the stuff, and never buy anything else. I could be a poster child for Hermann Oak. My end goal on gunbelts is an overall thickness of 1/4 inch. I skive down the buckle end to minimize bulk, and if I'm using the brass keepers, I'll skive the belt tip just enough to fit. If I'm using leather keepers, I keep the belt tip at 1/4" because I can make the keeper to accomodate it.

David & Regis, Thanks for the kind words. I've tended to gravitate toward belts this year for some reason, but they've been popular with customers and I like making them so it's working out well. As for machines, that's a great question--one of those that if you ask five people you'll get twenty different answers. : I recommend Jerry and Steve at Artisan, without reservation. You can take a look at all the toys they've got at www.artisansew.com, and the price list (the dreaded price list) is at http://artisansew.com/manualsfiles/Artisan%20MSRP%202007.pdf Dusty Johnson put me on to these folks awhile back, and I bought a Toro 4000P. It's a monster, but I've loved the thing the whole time I've had it. I'm not sure, but I think it's actually made by Juki. That's one of the things I find interesting about the whole sewing machine industry--it seems one company will actually manufacture a machine, but numerous companies will slap their label on it. I also have a Tippmann Boss, and it's been a solid, dependable little hand-operated stitcher. They can be a little aggravating until you develop a "feel" for it, and get everything adjusted, but I wouldn't recommend it at the current price because for $1495 you can get a powered machine. I think (I'm not sure) that one of our members, K-Man has several of the Toro 3000's that he uses in his holster/gunbelt business. He could give a lot better feedback on that particular machine. Another I'd mention, is a machine from Neel's Saddlery in Lima, Ohio. I've never used one, but I know of a couple guys that have them and use them daily. The link for Neel's website is http://www.neelsaddlery.com/index.html. They have a machine that I've heard good things about and it will stitch at least a half-inch thickness of leather. I believe the price on it is around $900, and it's the one pictured on the website home page I listed. I wish I had more details, but they may be worth looking into (they have a good reputation).

Here's a couple MORE of my gunbelts. Opinions, positive or negative are always welcome. Both are 1-1/2" wide, double-layer Hermann Oak. The bottom one is mahogany with white stitching and a border stamp--cowboy-style, and the top is black with black stitching in a more conservative vein. The mahogany belt has a heavy polished brass buckle set, and the black belt has a heavy polished chrome brass buckle set. Here's a link...let 'er rip! http://www.gibsonprorodeo.com/GIBSON17.jpg

Brilliant use of wood chisels...I'm stealing that, Bruce. Hope you don't mind buddy!

AWESOME!!! Is that airbrushed around the outside edge? Whatever it is, it's beautiful!

Welcome, John!

Welcome, Alex!

Thank you, Regis. The machine I use primarily is an Artisan Toro 4000P. If you'd like to take a look at some of their offerings, the website is www.artisansew.com. Dusty Johnson directed me to these folks awhile back, and I've been real impressed with them. The two gentleman that run the show are Jerry and Steve. The thread (cord) I use on my gunbelts is heavier than necessary for the application, but it's a design element here, so "standing out" was one of my goals. The topside is 346 and the bobbin thread is a step-down at 277.

Welcome, Steve!

Welcome, Don!

What Johanna said. Between you and David, I'm just trying to find some air to breathe from being left in the dust. With practice, patience, and perseverance...maybe someday I'll be halfway there. Thanks for sharing.

I never cease to be amazed. Standing ovation from here.

Come on down! I know I tear up the English language pretty well myself so you'll fit right in. We're finally seeing some warm weather so the time's right! The language deal will fix itself in no time.

I heat up my neatsfoot, too. I wish I could take credit for it, but my buddy Dusty Johnson taught me to put it in plastic cola/water bottles, drill a small hole in the lid, and heat it in a Crock Pot. Nice and safe, warms it beautifully, and no chance of overheating/bursting in to flame. I've got a $10 Crock Pot from WalMart...works like a champ.

I've got one from Weaver. I don't usually wear it unless I'm going to be working for several hours. As for dyeing...absolutely gotta have the gloves!

And, welcome Gary from the UK. Hope you don't feel you've fallen into a "tree-fitting" battle. It's great to have you here!!

Welcome, Ronny! Your post came across just fine. Why the heck did you leave Idaho for Oklahoma?

Very interesting post, David. I use Bowden (from Arlen) saddle trees and I've been pleased with everything I've gotten from them. My opinion on the whole "saddle fitting" deal is that it's not dissimilar to the whole "equine chiropractic" deal...it's a con-game. I'm fortunate to not only be a horse owner, but I also have access to sixty or more head a mile down the road from me that I have free rein to work with at any time. I can test gear...bridles, halters, saddles, etc. And I take advantage of that. I've never hurt a horse in any way with any saddle I've built from any tree I've gotten from Bowden. I do not, and will not, use any of the plastic poly crap that these "high-tech" companies put out. I use saddle trees built from wood and covered in rawhide. They work, have always worked, and unless equine physiology takes on a drastic overnight change, I see no reason why they won't continue to work. And work well. I would strongly advise anyone that is tempted to buy-in to the saddle-fitting, equine chiropractics, equine dentistry cons to do some research before taking the leap. Just take a step back and look at reality.

Saddlemaker here, too. And, California born--I'm from Lompoc. So now we have two "Bruce's" with a California connection.