Thanks, everybody.
The buckles are from Weaver Leather. You can find them at Weaver Leather--Supply.
I like 'em because they're real heavy brass--either polished brass, or polished chrome brass. They come in either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" sizes.
The buckles are attached with Chicago screws.
The leather keepers are not attached to the belts--they float freely between the two Chicago screws. I hand-sew them, versus stapling, out of personal preference.
As most of the regulars here know, I use the Artisan Toro 4000-P. I love that machine. It's basically a bigger version of the Toro 3000, another awesome stitcher. Matter of fact, I'll probably get a 3000 to add to the collection--you can check out the whole line of Artisan equipment at Artisan. They are some fine folks, and I promise--I don't get any commissions. (I need to call Jerry and have a talk about that). :angel_not:
Regis,
Thank you for the kind words on the stitching. I have a whole box of stuff that I've goofed up over the years, and no doubt much more to come. I don't use the machine every day, like most Makers, so I spend a bit of time sewing scrap pieces of equal thickness before I put the needle to a project.
I'm no expert on stitching, or stitchers, but it's been my experience that the first thing you should do after oiling, making sure your bobbin's full, and that you have smooth thread flow, is to stitch a while on some scrap pieces. Doing this allows me to get back "in the groove" and also to check my stitch length, tensions, etc. It may be Murphy's Law, but any time I shortcut around the practice pieces, something goes South on me and I wind up with a major goof.
As for stitching straight, I make sure the reading glasses are poised securely at the end of my nose, and that the lighting is where I need it.
I don't cut a stitch groove on belts, but I do use my calipers to draw, or pull a stitch line. I press pretty hard so there actually is a crease for the stitching to lay in, but I don't cut the leather like I would on a saddle skirt or flat plate rigging. I don't use a mechanical guide, but I do rely pretty heavily on my right thumb to keep the leather down. I work real close to the needle and just tick along following my caliper line.
Jordan,
The buckle holes on these are oval. The reason for that is the buckle set I used has a real thick partial tongue. And it's almost shaped like a shark's tooth. A round hole would work, but the oval does a better job. As for price, these are $89.95, which is right in the ballpark, or mid-range for these. Some are a little lower, and some a little higher.
I hope that answered everybody's questions, and again, much obliged for the kind words.