Ian

I don't itemize in that detail - Just add up the total reciepts - seperate material costs from tools ('Other') and then there's 'Office' for any junk I buy from Staples, even if it's something like poster board for making patterns. It doesn't really matter how you categorize, as long as you have reciepts to justify it all. Other places for rent, advertising, mileage, etc all have their own place on the form. I use a cash register, so I don't even remember what the actual items were that I sold. As long as I have a daily total. Credit card saless are recorded on the reciept. And, the credit card company charges, I throw in with 'Other'. I don't it like that for quite a while and no problems so far (cross fingers). Just watch me get an audit after saying that. Ian

here's a Youtube video about just that

I have a question: When you do appliques like the scrolls on the bottom, do you use an adhesive to hold them in place while you sew? If so, what do you use? Ian

Ed, all the Coach bags I've seen are chrome. Fantastic leather-I've never been able to find anywhere similar anywhere else. A few years back someone on Ebay had a whole pallet of leather tanned for Coach - man, I wish I had the bucks back then.

Hey, how about lycra stretch fabric. You can get it in heavy weight (not the thin bathing suit stuff) and it has a 4 way stretch

Very nice. I have never been a sentimental person, but this last week's events have helped me understand the importance of memorials like your beautiful seat. Last Tuesday a good freind of mine was killed on his bike. It has been a hell of a week, as I was next to him when he died. Tommy was a bike collector and I'm proud that I made seats for several of his restorations and customs, including the bike he was killed on. It is a tough thing to wrap your mind around. If there was any consolation, the number of people that came to his funeral yesterday showed how well he was thought of. Even the mayor was there, and the flags in the city were half mast. Still, how do you get used to the idea that you'll never see a friend again? You've given me an idea for a seat I'm going to do. It will never sit on a bike, but it will be a great satisfation to make another one for Tommy. Thanks.

Luke, send me you adress via PM and I'll send you the staples this evening - no charge

Thanks Dave and Ken. I was also thinking it would be too flexible. Mounting the bolts wouldn't be a problem, because you could mold a recess into the pan for a nut on the bottom (that's how the pan in the picture is mounted - I just taped the nuts onto the form and then glassed over them. Forms a neat little nut shaped dimple) Anyway, maybe the danger of having a seat break loose wouldn't be worth the low cost - back to the drawing board

I finished this seat today - there's nothing remarkable about it, except it is one where I molded the pan onto the bike. I'm getting more and more guys wanting fiberglass pans custom made, so it got me thinking - instead of buying metal pans for bobber seats, why dont I just mold my own. I have a steel pan I haven't used yet, so I could mold them off that. Maybe instead of 3 layers of glass mat, I could use 4 or 5 of the woven and mold some ridges into it for stability. Have any of you other seat guys ever heard of that? It would cost less than 10 bucks for a pan rather than 40 or 50.

They look sharp, and good looking horse too. I'm thinking of working on a pattern for motorcycle chaps, but made in a western style with yoke and thin buckle strap, but with softer naked leather. I'm thinking those would sell well seeeing how the world is flooded with the Asian made chaps, and it's pretty hard to compete with their prices.

I'm wondering, did all the dye wash out? If you can rinse it until the leather runs clear, couldn't you mold it, the re-dye it with spirit dye once it dries? Then apply your finish?

Hey Beave, I saw a beautiful braided vest today, so I had to ask the guy where he got it. Turns out he's Canadian and some guy up there made it. He couldn't remember the guy's name. It didn't have the tooled yoke, but was braided together like the one you had up on here. It had a zipper instead of snaps. I was thinking "how small could the world possibly be if it turns out it's one of yours, and it ends up in my little neighborhood.

Dave, Excellent job on the bags - really nice and clean looking. I think you're going to have a happy customer.

On the Chaps, Beaver's idea was a good one. On the first pair I made, I got the construction detail from another pair I had, then made the pattern in poster board. Now I can just add the inches Ineed for any pair by adding or subtracting from my pattern, by taping a another piece to the pattern. My pattern can be made to fit even the fattest dudes and big thigh ladies. My vest patern I got from a fabric store, it was a western style, but made with a satin back. I discarded the pattern back and made my own. I remade the pattern out of poster board. On a biker vest, the back is pretty much the same as the front size with snaps closed. Instead of closing ther sides when your sewing the whole assebly, when you sew leave them open, sewing down the side of each (when it's turned inside out) If you leave the back of the neck open, you can pull the whole thing right side out from there. Then just grommet the sides for laces. You can go the extra mile like Beaver did and put a gusset in the sides, but most biker vests are made without them.

There are a lot of places that sell the rubber you need - do a search for '40 durometer rubber' - you'll get a million of 'em

Thanks Joanne, I had an idea that's what it meant, but what would be the reason to have the grain side facing in? That holster that was posted a few days ago looked like it had a very smooth finish. If someone wanted the inside of a holster smooth, wouldn't it be easier to laminate some thin leather on the inside? Questions, questions..

I've heard the term 'rough-out' used to describe saddles, and also a very nice holster that was recently posted. It didn't look rough at all, so....what does 'rough-out' refer to?

What a classy design - now, the next question is; how you do your dye to keep the design natural and the background black...hmmm. I sure as heck can't figure out that technique. Very nice indeed!

very nice looking bag - did you use a 2 piece mold to get those perfect corners?. The tooling is awesome too.

If you have a tax number get a Weaver catalog - one of the best, I think for hardware, thread and needles, webbing and some of leather. Your machine will sew 138 thread well, which is what you'll probably want for your rifle rests. Also the heavier stitches look nice too. I'd suggest getting a foot with an edge guide - it makes it easy to sew exact distances from the edge. I think they come in 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8. Makes a nice pro-looking straight seam. PS, suede is the underside of garment leather after the smooth top has been split off.- thats why it is cheaper than top grain garment leather. Good Luck

Mike, I'm not sure the reason for the problems you're having with the black. I've seen some other posts by people having problems with black. Anyway, I understand your frustration and panic to fix it quickly. What I would do, is to clean the finish off with denatured alcohol and a piece of soft towel- keep rubbing until very little comes off on your rag. Then, re-dye it. You can do it while it is still damp with the alcohol. Let it dry, then go over very lightly with the alcohol, just to take any residue off. Then, when it's dry, apply your top finish with a soft cloth lightly in a couple of coats - don't rub the finish in, just dampen your cloth and do it in one light sweep along the belt. Once it's dry, you can use your Kiwi to polish it. If you use the black polish sparingly and polish it well, it won't come off on your pants. I've done it many times.

amazing -I wonder what kind of knife he usues to cut into those tiny spaces.

nice

I have a 206 rb. That sucker is so strong, you can sew 8oz bridle leather with it. Can't speak for the price because I got an unheard of deal a few years back, but if you're looking for one of the best walking foot machines ever made (according to my machine repair guy) that's the one to get. I know that you won't be restricting yourself to rifle rests, you'll be wanting to learn all kinds of stuff, so you might as well get something that is versitile. Of course, it's not made for sewing heavy harness leather or anything like that, but I do just about everything else with it, from truck bed covers to putting zippers in jackets and chaps. And, I bet it will outlive me. Here's a picture of stitches on a hunk of 9/11oz latigo, 4 thicknesses of 3/4oz suede and 6 thicknesses of 3oz chrome tanned (kind of stretching it)

Cool, ask those questions. I get lots of good tips just lurking and reading responses to other peoples questions. Welcome