LumpenDoodle2

Breathe deeply, and relax. :-) I agree with what you're saying, some companies seem to think that they would run so much better if they didn't have those 'pesky' customers annoying them all the time. As to the loss leader deals, they are getting too common a thing wherever, and whatever you shop for. I've never had one of those 'bargains' in stock when shopping. Especially on the internet.

Last week, trimming a few rough edges with a scalpel. Small piece of leather with glue on it stuck to blade. Looked up to answer question from hubby as I swiped the scrap off the blade with my thumb. Unfortunately, I forgot to turn the blade over first, and drew the scalpel blade edge the length of my right thumb. Interesting experience, but the blood gave a very nice rich tone to the leather.

I look forward to seeing the first stitches.

Being a poor person, I never knock back leather just because of wrinkles and marks. As already been said, there's a lot of character in there. One of my favourite purses I made using very badly wrinkled and stained leather. I strip paint from wood as my main job, and I always tell my customers that the 'faults' and marks on the finished door or stair is the result of 'the patina of centuries'.

I suppose if you work out how much you can afford/accept to pay per hour, and then possibly build in a bit wiggle room. Having had experience of employing both good and bad workers, that 'wiggle' room could be used as a quality 'bonus'. The people willing to put in the quality get the bonus. As long as it's done fairly for both the employee and employer, it works well.

I have bought a couple of very cheap split hides to try out my prototypes on. The quality of the split leather is actually good enough that I can then 'road test' the prototypes before using the good leather.

As to best height of work tables. Take the measurement from floor to wrist, and this should allow you to comfortable lay your hands flat on the work surface. This height will prevent backache. And can I just add "you'll have had your tea, then".

Great to see an old machine like this being restored to use. There's something special about using a solid old sewing machine that you just don't feel with modern ones.

It wouldn't be the STH-8BLD? Just going by the position of the stitch length dial.

Yes, good old fashioned sewing machine oil is best. I know some people who use high tech modern oils on their machines, but for me, the proper stuff work best, and is fairly cheap.

You are absolutely right about the practicality of stop down being best. I was just pointing out that it is not 'absolute' or critical, and that included non factory settings. :-)

Coming from the sewing world, needle up stop machines are quite common. I would not have thought that the needle stopping position would be too much of a problem for the stitch. Otherwise, surely you would not have the choice of settings. :-) The only problem I can think of is tension on the thread at the top position, and to release the thread, you just turn the wheel slightly passed top position. The feet would be holding the work in place anyway, so it would not be moving around. It's just more practical to stop it down.

Phew!! :-()

It looks a quite interesting system. Out of interest, does your wife know you've been playing with her cutter? ;-()

Horses for courses, isn't it. All these tools were invented/adapted because someone wanted to make something that worked better for them. Doesn't mean what one person uses would work for me. I know people who will only buy the top of the range tools, but their skill doesn't match the tool. I also know one chap who is basically a 'Valerie Singleton knicker elastic, and sticky backed plastic' * guy when it comes to tools. His work is amazing. (* translation available to all non Blue Peter fans.) JLS, you're right, it's the finished product that counts, and how you get there is up to you.

As Trox says, the rod (2 styles in kit) should fit into a threaded hole near the handwheel. This would normally be used for the belt guard (at least on mine). Once you get an anchor for the rod, the setup is fairly easy. The instructions are not the best in the worls, but I've read worse. I always prefer needle down stop as it guarantees I do not accidently move my work while checking the position etc (just my preference, possibly). The heel press then brings the needle up to remove the material. With the needle positioner, one pedal press completes one stitch 'cycle'. You can then practice with your machine, and try to just make that one stitch at a time, then biuld up from there. As you say, it's just practice.

Have you set your motor speed to the minimum (5). That and setting the needle to stop in the leather means I can sew really, really, slow on mine. Another thing I've found (yes, I'm a complete newbie to servo motors, and no doubt everyone else knows this), by pressing on the pedal with your heel, the needle lifts fully up. I love my servo motor.

Unfortunately, I don't have experience of horizontal bobbin thingies, I've only ever jammed vertical bobbin machines. The timing doesn't have to be knocked out by much to ruin your day, and hopefully someone with more experience than me will be able to help more.

I may be wrong, but it looks as if your timing might have slipped a little bit. Your needle seems to be starting its upward journey before the hook can get to it. Have you tried it with thinner thread, just to see if it behaves the same? If the bobbin timing is out, it's just the case of loosening the screws holding the bobbin case onto the shaft, and advancing the timing slightly. Another thing to check, is the gap between the needle flat bit at the eye, and the hook. If it's too big, the hook can't catch the thread, too small and the needle catches on the hook.

Mine is the Jack 563A-1, and the only problem I've found is getting used to the silence after a clutch motor.

I have just bought a servo motor and needle adjustment from College, and wish I'd done it ages ago. No need for a speed reducer, or change of pulley, at least for me. Single stitch now possible, and easy to control.

I use that waterproofing strip stuff on the inside of the pvc covers I make. I needed a mini iron to heat weld it into place, so made an ironing tip out of a large copper nail which fits my variable heat soldering iron. This post has given me some inspiration for more fittings, many thanks.

I was about to say the same thing. You see cheap (as in quality) versions of your wonderful pouch in hairdressing suppliers sites.

I do like it (I may have to steal your idea, it's so good).

Do you mean take rawhide and tan it yourself? If so, I couldn't tell you, but I would be interested in the answer too (curiosity and cats).