King's X

I thought I saw one on eBay under the Western Tack section? I can't remember. Good luck.

I cannot come close to Bob's experience, but I don't mind telling you what I do. I use a sponge to wet my lighter weight leathers if I have to do a quick job or last minute. If I have a heavier weight leather, I will follow something close to Bob's method. I don't use a box, but I will use a plastic bag and just set it on my granite block overnight. I have also used the method of dunking my leather and then setting on my block with a piece of glass on top to set up overnight. Both methods have work well. I guess it just depends on my mood. Oh, my water also has Pro-Carve in it. The thing that you need to look for that is more important is how your leather feels. For instance, is it cool to the touch? How does it feel when you place the grain side up to your cheek? Cool/cold is good, hot or normal would signify that the moisture is gone. The color is another factor, but you can not depend on it because of the different leathers. I have used Tandy leather, which is bleached and the color is different. Hermann Oak leather which is what I use now shows a different color when wet and dry. I can judge by the color in HO, but not Tandy. Now, I have found that lighter leather will dry out faster than thicker leather. If my lighter leather appears to be dry, I will turn it over and wet the back. I will then keep it that way on my granite block and allow it to set in for about 15-30 mins until it absorbs it. The time is not crucial, you can check it to make sure it sets in and is ready. You can always leave it longer depending on how it cuts or tools. Play with it. Remember, I am a hobbyist and do not do this everyday like others. Maybe someone else will chime in to help you. Good luck

Welcome to the forum! You have another member from France on here by the name of Pino. He is on vacation right now and probably not answer this thread.

$50 Laugh now or later. thanks.

I think I found my 10oz size. My 14oz is the best!!

congrats!

Welcome to the forum!

When backgrounding with that tool, you have to rotate it as you are hitting it. Plus, you need to keep constant pressure so your color is as even as possible. I would strongly agree with ClayB....Practice.

Ditto

Greetings and Salutations! Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum!

www.lasergiftcreations.com

Sent you a PM for the Tippman. Good luck

See if you can go into Paul BUrnett's free lessons. he has one on Beveling that should help you answer your question. If not, post a picture. That would help us help you.

that's stunning Ed. another great job!

Welcome to the forum.

Best wishes and hope for a speedy recovery.

I would recommend contacting Big Papa Leather. He usually sharpens my stuff initially using the GRS system that Hidepounder stated. He offers sharpening services for all leather related tools. You can mail it in and he will return it for a low cost. I learned how to sharpen my blades from Chuck/Lana Smith and Big Papa using a 'big red' jig. Paul's article is a great asset. I really like his knife. I re-angled my Leather Wrangler's blade and resharpened it with Paul's help. Good luck

contact 'shop talk' magazine, they have a recondition one for sale. I saw it in their recent magazine. Good luck

Ms. Brenda at www.lasergiftcreations.com. She is a member here and has a lot of satisfied customers on here and over the pond. Good luck.

DITTO!

Thanks for the comments. That connecting 'thing' is complicating me, but I will work it out.

Very nice shop. Best of luck.

That sure is purdy! Nice job.

I have pretty much put the carving aside with the exception of my swivel knife practice to learn how to draw my own designs. I have collected a lot of flowers, leaves, junctures and vine drawings for my book that I work off. It seems to be going well so far for my basic designs. I hope to incorporate more multi flowers, leave and junctures soon. For now, I am keeping it basic for now. Good luck.