dikman

That makes sense, although with apparel I wouldn't have thought you'd need large size thread. As long as I'm always learning something new it means I'm still alive.

Just curious why you'd want to do that?

Ralf, if you're right (and I think you might be) then it means the dealer is sending out incorrect information about the machine he's selling, which shows a lack of knowledge on his part. I wonder what else he doesn't know.

Well, they both use the same phrase, clearance under the foot, so the logical assumption is that they're referring to the same operation.If you're right then it means that using the hand lift doubles the clearance which seems a bit high to me (none of my machines have that sort of difference). Just curious.

You say nothing over 3/8", but I'll bet that if you get a machine that can do a bit thicker then you'll end up doing just that. A 3200 "might" be struggling to do really light stuff (in which case buy an old domestic machine for that) but overall it's probably the closest we hobbyists can get to a good all-round machine. If you make stuff heavier than it can handle then you're getting into the realms of the heavy stuff - the 4500/441 machines. A 3200 would probably be the ideal machine for what I do - only problem is the cost.

Those manuals are contradictory, looking at max. clearance under the foot one says 7mm the other says 14mm!

Only potential problem I can see is the stitching on the front of the pouch. I reckon sliding a revolver in and out is soon going to wear through the stitching on the inside as it's just about where the cylinder will rub?

Actually, it's quite an intriguing machine, given that it's obviously not quite a stock standard unit. The spool holders are mounted underneath the table (??) and there's a linkage of some sort hanging across the foot pedal. I'd also noticed the repaint, probably not too old given that it's not showing any wear, and as for all the extra holes........ I'd be interested, but not at that price, given its "peculiar" condition. Probably not a good idea for someone just starting out, you want a machine that is hopefully in at least "standard" condition which will make it easier when you inevitably ask for some assistance/advice.

His location says Germany, if that helps.

Interesting. The obvious solution, of course, is don't connect the printer to the internet. I can't really see the point in connecting a home 3D printer to the 'net, I would much rather be there to keep an eye on it when it's running. And when I'm not using it it's turned off.

I had no idea how it would turn out as I didn't really know what I was doing with the 3D programme! Took me over half an hour just to add that little ring! I made one using the ABS and other than the colour it doesn't look any different to PLA. Using ABS is a bit of a pain as I have to increase the nozzle temp and run the bed at 100*C - it takes ages to reach operating temp.

My filament arrived lunchtime (3 days later than the Aust.Post tracking said). I ordered Grey PLA+, so what do I get - Cyan ABS! I'm curious to see how they handle this as the return postage will probably be at least half the (retail) value of the filament. In the meantime, this is what I've come up with. edit: just heard from them and it seems their system was causing problems last week so they'll send me the PLA+ and I get to keep the ABS. Might as well make one of these loopers out of ABS and see how it works I suppose.

I've tried hypodermic syringes for various fluids but I don't really like them as it's too easy to squirt too much out! The Zoom Spout looks good, Floyd, but as usual not easy to find here in Oz.

There have been a few posts about these things, look up Chinese shoe patcher. There are also a few youtube vids about them. I have one, although I haven't used it as not long after buying it I started buying industrial machines . For what they are they're not too bad, pretty basic but really need a bit of work to smooth them out. They do the job they were designed for, patching and repairing stuff. Bobbin is tiny and it's limited to #69/M40 thread.

I'm not aware of any pattern available for it. Looking at the first photo it's actually a pretty simple, basic design, a Mexican loop with two loops, a wide skirt that finishes above the bottom of the holster and is designed to ride high on the belt. It appears to be soft leather with unfinished edges. The fourth photo also shows the design quite clearly.

Intuitive keypad? That would be a first. I notice that the specs list the slowest speed as 500rpm? Lishui is the company that made the servos I bought (three of) and so far I've had no issues with them. It should be possible to find the same motor on Aliexpress, which deals with individual sales, but it could take a lot of searching and the price will probably be higher.

kgg, I use hydraulic oil, which is basically all Lily White oil is. There are really only two potential issues with oiling sewing machines - staining (if it drips down the needle bar/feet) and gumming up. Many of the "ordinary" household-type oils will cause gumming if left long enough without the machine being used, but that is rarely a problem for most of us. I agree with what you say regarding firearms, but fortunately most of us run our machines slow so excessive heat buildup is unlikely to be much of an issue. Your oil mixture sounds pretty good to me. As for oilers, I have some small squeeze containers that held ink for refilling inkjet printers, they don't hold a lot but they have a nice stainless tube on them to get into tight areas.

I worked with a guy who one day was wandering around the office looking for his glasses - they were perched on his head!! I've attached a loop to the end and hopefully my PLA+ will arrive today.

Good torque, low speed and leather - you will need to factor in a speed reducer with the motor, as already mentioned. A servo, by itself, will not meet your requirements. Other than that, if you're uncertain about a motor stick to the brands the advertisers here sell.

Just made one (using "ordinary" PLA) and it works ok. I tried one of those needle-threading thingies that Constabulary mentioned in the other thread but it didn't work 'cos it's too short. I've got some PLA+ coming and I'll make another when it gets here. I'm going to try and modify it, Brian , as I reckon a hole in the end for some string to make a hanging loop or a loop molded into the end might be a good idea, then I can hang it on the thread stand (and not lose it!).

Thanks for that, I forgot to ask where you get the filament from. That PLA+ appears to be pretty much the same price as normal PLA.

??? I thought it was pretty self-explanatory, much as SARK9 described it - with a binder attachment the feed dog moves back and forth in a horizontal fashion and the extra parts allow it to be changed to an elliptical (conventional, i.e up/down/back/forth) movement. It's unclear, however, if the replacement feed dog has teeth on it (it still looks smooth to me). Basically what you're asking for.

Are you talking about 3D scanning? if so it's certainly feasible but expensive. As for upgrades, it depends what you buy. If you buy a kit then the chances are that once you understand what you're doing you'll want to improve the printer as many of the kits will be functional but can be improved upon. Not necessary, but if you'r a kit builder you probably won't be able to help yourself!

You've done it again, Brian. I too get irritated with trying to poke the thread from the back through that little hole, it just never occurred to me to make something like that (why don't we have a head-banging-against-a-brick-wall emoji? I'm sure I would use it a lot!).

It's probably just as well that it's nowhere near me!! Lots of interesting stuff there. Of course, I've got nowhere to put a shelf full of thread, but........