dikman

I suggest you do more searching on Eastwood's holster, GuyNC5, there's quite a lot of info about it (it's just a matter of finding it!). He used the same belt/holster combo for many of his films and it was made by Andy Anderson. The holster is rough-side out and was likely natural colour. The belt had a slight notch (recess?) where the holster sat to prevent the holster from sliding around on the belt, the holster also had wings behind the belt for stability and was angled backward slightly. The "Gunfighter" stitching on the belt can be a bit of a pain to get right.

I agree with Bajatacoma, those photos really prove nothing. If you look at many of the photos in Packing Iron, for example, it's obvious that they are staged studio shots, which I would say is the case here. Wearing guns that low is entirely impractical in the real world, particularly where horse riding is concerned!

15 oz, that means each piece is about 7 oz, which seems a bit thin for holsters.

That thought never entered my head, I just decided I wanted one and felt that it was about time I learned something about them. I actually had no idea whether it would be useful when I bought it.

I've taken care of that with a 7" pulley on the head and a 1 3/4" for the motor, which will give me 4:1. I'm a great believer in fitting larger pulleys on the head as it's much simpler than making reducers with shafts, bearings and pulleys and then trying to figure out how to mount the thing (I now have several in a box!), plus it makes handwheeling easier. Nice one Matt. Lots of good ideas coming out of the woodwork.

Leecopp, in the case of SARK9's motor it is tightened in place by the large nut and bolt at the motor pivot point. I figure it shouln't be hard to make up a tensioning device if necessary. As I'll be using a conventional table I'll be mounting the speed control like SARK9 has done, should be easy as it is already mounted on a suitable bracket. Michiel, looks like that workbench has seen a lot of use!

That could be it. That will work on a cylinder arm machine, but not on a flatbed. Looks like I'll be doing the same as SARK, as he points out it also makes use of some "dead space" on the table. At least now if anyone does a search on table top servos much of it will now be in one thread (so if anyone has anything pertinent to the subject feel free to add it here). I've ordered the servo (I made sure it had separate controls) and it should be here by the end of the week. I've ordered the 109 leatherpoint needles (thanks Wiz) which should also be here about then, and made a new, better fitting bushing for the large pulley on the machine (there was a bit of slop in the old one which didn't matter for hand cranking but not good for a motorised system). I'll refit the original metal Singer pedal - a bit heavy, but looks good! And then I wait.....

Thanks Sark, that looks like the motor I intend to get (looking at the single pivot point) and pretty much as I envisioned it fitting. R8R, you're right, it is pretty easy, but I recall Uwe did some work on this idea and sometimes he tends to think slightly outside the box, so to speak, but I can't remember exactly what he did. I've decide to fit a motor to my 111W117 'cos hand cranking it is a great idea - as long as you've got 3 hands!! I can pick up a (nominal) 550w motor for about AU$112, but I would have to remove the steel reinforcing bar underneath the table to fit the belt plus the slot would be too close to the cutout for my liking. So the obvious thing is to fit the motor on top. Besides, once I got the idea into my head I just have to do it!

Sorry, but I'll have to resort to asking. Uwe posted some posts/photos on his experiments with top mounting a servo but I'll be blowed if I can find them! I think they were inside another post, can someone point me in the right direction?

Good combo, between them you should be able to sew almost anything.

I agree, that label doesn't indicate it was actually made in Germany. I can't help wondering why that label is damaged so much?

Hard to tell in the photo, but is the actual take-up arm broken or is it the bent guard that you're concerned with?

WD-40 won't harm anything and is pretty good at loosening grime, just don't rely on it as a lubricant or for rust protection. As for "rust reverser"? I haven't heard of that before, rust is a process of metal erosion, once the metal's gone you can't bring it back. Are you thinking of Rust Converter? This stuff basically neutralises the rust and seals it by chemical reaction (it normally consists of phosphoric acid). Can be pretty useful on stands etc before painting, but I'd be wary of using it inside a machine. Another concoction for loosening stuck parts is a 50:50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid. Many people swear by it. Sounds like a good buy and should be an interesting challenge.

I've still been searching both aliexpress and alibaba trying to find a match to that unit R8R has posted, but with no luck. I can't find any servos rated at 1100w, the closest is 800w, this model is a close match at 800w and the control panel appears to have the same functions (LT-800W, made by Lishui). There also don't appear to be too many that start at 100 rpm, all the ones I've looked at start at 500 rpm. Curious.

Excellent! Thank you Wiz.

Interesting. I just checked mine, I have two types, a 550w and a 750w, same brand (Lishui). The 750w is 68mm and has a round front, the 550w is 70mm and has a square front like that planetary gearbox.

Thanks mate, you're right and I'm an idiot! Not long ago I bought some 190R's for one of my other machines and forgot about it! They are indeed the length I want, but I'm facing the same issue I had before - I can only get them in 110/140 size and garment point. I'll have to try and source them from overseas to get leather point.

Don, if you're referring to the one R8R pictured it appears to be pretty much identical in construction to my servos (in other words, fairly "standard" construction).

My Seiko uses 135 needles. Is there a needle type that is the same shank diameter but about 3-4mm longer?

Well, I've gone as far as I can to get the synchroniser working. The belt wasn't long enough to try the 4" wheel and my other belts are either too short or too long. I recall that when I first got it it worked fine but the pulley ratio was pretty much 1:1. It might work at 2:1, but I'm beginning to suspect not. The unit I have appears to be a pretty generic type as supplied with several servos, so probably pretty basic.I suppose the last two days haven't been completely wasted as I've learned something (and made a nice bushing for my big pulley). Matt, good luck with trying to achieve what you want, I'm sure it can be done - with enough money! Me, I'm back to a tiny pulley on the servo and I can crawl the Seiko and it easily punches a #140 needle through 1/2" of veg.

A bit more info for those who might like to know these things. I fitted the 3" (actually 75mm) pulley and it works fine! Actual ratio is 2.73:1. Whether it's firmware or software is probably irrelevant but I would assume that it's programmed to only work up to a particular ratio, and if so then logically one would expect it to be a whole number and 3:1 would be a good guess. What I need now is a 2 1/2" pulley in order to prove this, unfortunately it's not a common size. Now to experiment with settings and see if it suits my needs with the 3" pulley. It's now an hour later and it's not as simple as I thought. If I go slow it stops fine, needle up or needle down, but if I run it fast it appears to get very confused when I take my foot off the pedal and shudders slowly for 3 or 4 stitches and then throws up an error. Next thing is to swap the 3" pulley for a 4" (2:1) and see what happens. Only problem is I'm running out of belt adjustment! It's obvious that it's no longer going to be an option for me as I'll lose the slow speed and torque I had, but I need to know at what point the synchroniser will work (the info may be of some value to others).

Very nice! I actually like that "honey" colour as it has a nice warm feel about it. Great job on the stamping.

At the moment I'm using a simple belt, unlined, with a right side holster and a left side cross-draw. I angle the belt across my waist so that the right side holster sits lower, this places the cross-draw at my front left and higher. Both holsters are angled on the belt. If I'd used a heavier/lined belt it might have been too stiff to sit at the angle across my waist. If you have two holsters, left and right, then yes, the ranger belt will probably give better support.

Is the right length needle fitted?

Could be a fairly involved project, Matt. I guess my next step is to replace the motor pulley with a 3" and see if that works. This will give me a ratio of 2.67:1 compared to the current 4.5:1. I don't particularly need the synchroniser, but now that I've invested this time and effort it would be nice to get it working. And I need to know.........