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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. dikman
    Not much I can add to R8R's answers, he's pretty well got it covered. The Consew is a good choice as it uses common Singer 111-type feet, so easy and cheap to find. It should handle up to #138 thread. Lilly White oil is basically ISO 22 hydraulic oil, another option if you can't find it.
  2. dikman
    There must be quite a story about how they all came to be there, pity we'll never know.
  3. dikman
    Is it a new or old model 335? And have you adjusted/changed anything recently?
  4. dikman
    R8R, I have got my old model 335 to sew with #138 thread, but it's definitely happier with #69. I reckon #92 would be a pretty good compromise and should work ok.
  5. dikman
    Mais oui, monsieur.
  6. dikman
    You've got a good eye, Don. When I looked closer the take-up spring looks a bit funny too and, strangely enough, most of the red paint marking oiling points appears to be intact. I suppose if you don't put oil down them then the paint won't be affected! I would say that the needle plate screw isn't original and is just a countersunk screw with a slightly larger head. The other one appears to be slightly domed, whereas this one is flat. And there appears to be another knurled nut just behind the cross-threaded tension nut?
  7. dikman
    Wiz, I'd say that I've got a greater chance of winning the Lotto than finding something like that here in Oz!
  8. dikman
    Yeah, it just bugs me that I can only use this thread for handstitching.
  9. dikman
    On to Version 3. While it would turn over at fairly low speed it didn't matter how I played with the settings the transition from slow to fast (whatever I'd set the max to) was just to quick for my liking. So the only answer was to resurrect one of my reducers and modify it fit this setup. Fortunately I had a few short belts that would work and a goodly assortment of pulleys. It actually works quite well now. From the motor to the reducer gives me a 2.7:1 reduction and from the reducer to the head another 3.9:1. I can now sew at 1 stitch/2.5 secs and changing the max speed is simple, two buttons on the front of the control box if I need a faster top speed. Wonder what I can do next?
  10. dikman
    My experiences with using wax (beeswax, tallow, candle wax) in shooting and reloading is that once you get wax on something it's almost impossible to remove it completely! So while I'll happily use it to buff leather and seal the edges it isn't going anywhere near my needles!! I'll stick to "conventional" thread.
  11. dikman
    Matt, it's dry. Maybe it has to be run through a wax or silicone bath while sewing? Too messy to try and I definitely don't want wax gumming things up.
  12. dikman
    For what it's worth - I have some braided polyester thread (#69) that came from a closing down boot factory. It's beautiful thread, but so far I haven't been able to use it successfully in any of my machines (an assortment of medium-weight upholstery machines). At some point the hook inevitably catches in the braid and I don't know why. I've no idea what machines used it in the factory. By the way, you're not the first person to want to use their hand-stitching thread in a machine and thus far I'm not aware of anyone who has. Maybe you'll be the first?
  13. dikman
    You have a way with words, Wiz. My latest servo doesn't have the smooth (slow) transition from start to max movement that my others have (different brand). I figure it's probably due to the design in the way it interprets the signal from the Hall Effect sensor, so not much I can do about it (other than mess around with additional pulley reducers). When you try a different brand it's pot luck whether it will perform how you would like it to.
  14. dikman
    I keep 1/2 dozen spools with the 117 and as they are kept in a small container they keep unwinding! I looked on Thingiverse and found three types of bobbin clip, this one seems the best. Fits Singer 111/211 type bobbins, but will stretch a little to fit some others. They stand upright and I can write the thread size on the clip (so I don't get confused). They work fine in PLA but a springier filament would probably be better (nylon?). Improved_Sewing_Bobbin_Clip.zip
  15. dikman
    Now that my 111W117 is functional I figured I'd need a guide of some sort for belts etc. As the front plate has a few screw holes already in it (for who-knows-what accessories) I decided it would make sense to use them. I eventually worked out that they were tapped Metric, most surprising for a machine made in the US probably decades ago. This is the result, bearings from a junked hard disc drive, long guide machined from a piece of round hard nylon and assorted scrap. Hopefully it should work.
  16. dikman
    Nice one! Trouble is it's pretty hard to stop when a bargain comes along.
  17. dikman
    I'm with R8R. If you must pay something $5 and salvage whatever parts you can (screws etc). That is bad.
  18. dikman
    What a load of garbage!! Whoever you spoke to has no idea what they're talking about.
  19. dikman
    If it's the original owner then I think you're off to a good start. I can't add much other than agree that turning it over by hand, listening and feeling for anything that doesn't seem right and checking that it stitches is a good idea.
  20. dikman
    Do you have any paperwork for the servo? It should show you how to change a setting to turn off the positioner, unless you actually want to use it in which case yes, you have to plug it in..
  21. dikman
    I've made this post as a link to a previous post about 3D printing pulleys (took me a while to find it last time I went looking).
  22. dikman
    If you definitely need the binder then I guess the 335 is the logical choice, but other than the binder the 227 is the superior machine for leatherwork, in my opinion. It also handles heavier thread.
  23. dikman
    Best thing to do is try it. If it doesn't work just move it back.
  24. dikman
    Except for W and SV models.
  25. dikman
    If you've got the clearance then try shimming under where the foot attaches to the main bar (under the two screws). As long as it doesn't scrape on anything it should be fine. It's the same attachment method as the Pfaff 335 and there's no vertical adjustment.
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