dikman

Ok, so not exactly for a sewing machine, but how many use those little hex bits and sometimes wanted a small handle? (Puts hand up......). There are quite a few designs on thingiverse and this one looked worth a try. Some are bigger/fatter, but this one looked like what I had in mind. Printing as is the bit wouldn't quite go in, but by heating the bit In a vice and pushing the handle on it made a snug fit. If you wanted the bits "permanently" attached then this would work. The next two were made scaled up to 104% and this proved just nice - until I found that some bits are made slightly smaller than others, so fell out!!!! Easy solution, I've ordered some rare earth magnets, 5mm diam. x 2mm thick, these will be superglued into the handle so the bits stay put but can be changed easily. At $2.89 for 50 I figure I'll have a few spares! I've included the files downloaded from thigiverse so the makers details are included (just so no-one thinks I'm clever at designing things). Stubby_Screwdriver_Handle.zip

True, but those 1871's have that "cool" factor, in my opinion. Scooby, exactly what does an idiot feel like?

Thanks mate, an interesting chart - but no 126 x 11.

Why do you need a retaining strap? The blade length means it's not likely to fall out.

Nice! Those open-top 1871's are beautiful. I wanted to get a couple for CAS, unfortunately I would have had to import them to Oz (lots of hassles and $$$) so picked up a couple of Vaqueros instead.

koreric, that chart is for flat shank needles, not round. 111W, that figure from the shank end to the eye explains it all. I've lost 8 mm in clearance by using a 135 needle. Thank you. Next time I'm near the (industrial) sewing machine supplier I'll ask them what's available to see if I can squeeze a bit more clearance from the beastie.

Trash treasure, those leg castings look like they came off a bridge! That was a time when such castings weren't only functional but had style.

Thanks for that needle info, I'll have to see what I can find. According to the meagre info that I've found/been told about the 117, other than a few parts to do with the spring tensioning of the presser foot and the cutters it's basically the same as the 116, which in turn is basically a 153. I'll have a look but I reckon the hook assembly is likely to be a "normal" 111 type. In the other post I mentioned there was a knocking noise coming from underneath which turned out to be the hook hitting the needle. I lowered the needle bar to set the correct adjustment but this meant the needle bar was just touching the inner foot at the needle's lowest point. Unfortunately I have no idea what was used in this machine before but it appears that it must have been a longer needle than the 135 I've fitted. All good fun.

Does anyone know the overall length of this needle? I haven't been able to find it by googling so far. This is the standard needle for my 111W117, which I've adjusted to take a 135x17 (but it's a shorter needle). This probably explains why i can't get the 1/2" under-the-foot that the brochure mentions as the needle bar is hitting the inner foot with this needle at 3/8" clearance.

That looks like it's been in a dust storm and been blasted by sand!! Methinks it would need more than a bit of TLC.

Had a quick look today (been a bit busy, I'm making replacement handwheels for my lathe, I cast them out of aluminium but they needed a lot of machining to make them usable). The reason the outer foot was lifting with the leather is because the flat spring tensioning screw was all the way out (doh!). Screwing it almost all the way down stopped the lifting. Unfortunately I could hear something knocking underneath during a stitch cycle, hopefully I can spend more time on it tomorrow.

A quick search turned up this - Have you googled for a manual?

Ah-ha! Many thanks 111W, now I'm beginning to see how it was intended to function. For my needs I obviously don't require any of that complex linkage so I just need to restore it to a basic 111-type functionality. A nice little project for me.

I'll have to have a much closer look. The parts list mentions that on the 117 some parts are left out and different ones fitted compared to the 116 (my parts list is a pretty poor copy, hard to read some of the stuff in it). I didn't pay much attention to it when I got it, I basically cleaned it up and it seemed to work but I haven't really used it yet. I'm just puzzled by the lever that's attached to the top of the presser bar, I just can't see how it does anything (except go up and down!). I might have to spend some time on it tomorrow 'cos now I'm curious about how it's different inside.

Pity. There's something weird about the 117, it doesn't have a spring to exert downward pressure on the outer foot. The foot bar is extended above the top of the casing and the parts list (and the brochure) shows a lever attached to it. Mine doesn't have the lever so I'm puzzled by exactly how it's all supposed to work.

Don't sweat it. Not snappy at all, in fact it's a very valid question. Some of us just don't bother trying to rationalise it.........

"hair pullingly" - for that to be any good one needs something called hair.

I don't suppose you chaps have a user manual for this machine? All I've found so far is a parts list.

Yep, quite noticeable. I assumed, however, that they were referring to working distance under the feet, not "lifted" distance?

I just collect things. There!! I've admitted it! I feel better already......

I saw that, thanks constabulary. Mine doesn't have 1/2" under the feet, best I could adjust it to was 3/8". Guess I'd better look at it again.

Well done! You are now officially a collector, no point denying it!!

Hey Constabulary, in that brochure it lists the 117 (which I have) and was wondering what that 1/2" on the right refers to? It also says it has an automatic tension adjuster, I wonder if that means the thread or the presser foot?

Yes, that is impressive. I notice that the needle bar is hard against the inner foot when used like that, so the machine must be operating at its limits. I've learned something new.

Doesn't that mean the 7mm is effectively the working clearance under the feet?