dikman

Machine stitching (at least using the usual upholstery type machines such as the Consew, Singer, Seiko, Juki etc) will never look as good on the reverse as hand stitching, regardless of the type of needle used. Leatherpoint needles will minimise it slightly. As for the motor, in all honesty the best thing to do is replace it with a servo motor, the single best thing you can do for sewing leather.

The laser project sounds interesting. More info would be nice IF you get the time.

Wiz made a good point, my bad, if you're not familiar with adjusting machines forget what I suggested. I think that manual I posted explains how to adjust the feet without touching anything else.

I would say that the condition of the screws sounds par for the course for old machines! All of mine have screws with varying degrees of butchery, plus some screws that obviously aren't original!! If it's only an issue when the feet are lifted manually by the lever then it can't be too far off, so as Wiz says raise the needle bar slightly and reset the hook-needle timing. I found this, if it's any help. pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF

Which model do you have? From what I could find out the H4 is designed for the 190 needle, all others require a 134/135 needle.

I must admit I'm puzzled how you managed to sew canvas ok if this is the way you've always threaded the needle and bobbin.

Quite an interesting approach.

That makes sense, although it still sounds like a slightly unusual setup. I'm still curious....

One post since 2011! I'd say your chance of getting a reply is pretty slim.

You could be right as I've never tried climbing seams with mine (old model), I've only sewn flat leather. I got mine to sew 10mm (3/8") - just - by re-adjusting the feet height but I also had to disable the automatic tension release as lifting the feet higher than standard releases thread tension on the upstroke! While I proved it can be done, I put things back to standard as my other machines will handle 3/8" (plus a bit) so I don't need it to do it.

I'm curious about that too. That's rather a strange mix of parts, looks to me like they're for a domestic machine (small motor). I would have expected the speed control to be in the pedal assembly, but you obviously have a separate control box, and the power supply looks like one of those laptop "bricks".

A quick search turned up this, it tells you how to adjust the feet. CONSEW+226R-1+INSTRUCTION+MANUAL.pdf

I think 1 or 2 would be the best options (do you really need a pneumatic lift?), while a computer unit might be good in a factory environment for home use it will be great - until something goes wrong! You could be without a machine for a while and it could cost $$$ to repair. For what most of us do a simple mechanical machine makes more sense.

Good fun, isn't it? I think I would have repainted the baseplate, though, as most of the paint is missing. The head looks fine.

An interesting project, I look forward to seeing how it turns out.

The newer 335's should handle 8mm (probably up to 10mm, maybe a bit more), the older models are limited to about 6mm (although if tweaked a bit it's possible to fit about 9mm under the foot).

No. Try sewing by turning the handwheel in the opposite direction to normal and see how far you get! My latest servo has a "change direction" option in the menu, but that's only there to let you mount the motor on the opposite side to "normal".

You done good! Looks very nice.

I bought a set of feet with a similar problem (not KH). I knew the needle was lined up ok with the feed dog so opened out the hole in the vibrating foot. If you do that just make sure you polish it well so you don't have any burrs.

Don, thanks for reminding me about that brochure, I'd forgotten all about it! (Brainfade, getting old....). They were Singer, it was their USA plant. Mind you, my 111W117 has some parts stamped Germany!

As mentioned, the W in the model number designation indicates it was made at the Bridgeport plant, USA. Unfortunately there are very few records available from that factory so it will be extremely difficult to date it.

I can't help with any of your questions (sorry) but it looks to be in very good shape. Nice buy! As for the missing parts, I've noticed that people do strange things sometimes.

Perhaps something to consider - you may intend to make smallish straps (for now) but with the 3200 you will have the option of making heavier gear if the opportunity arises. For leatherwork a cylinder arm is generally considered to be the most versatile design and as has been mentioned a small tabletop can be fitted if needed.

Real Heath Robinson job! (I've wondered what use a hand-drill would be these days). I like your use of setscrews.

First thing to understand is that if you want to make your own stamps you'll have to spend some (probably lots) of time learning how to create objects in a suitable 3D programme. Kits - a great way to learn about 3D printers, but again will require some time to build and get working properly. Kits were a cheaper way to get into 3D printing, but some of the ready-to-go units have come down in price so the difference isn't as great as it once was. Plus, if you have problems building a kit you're usually on your own and will have to figure it out yourself. Some people get good value from them, RockyAussie being one as he makes a lot of bits and pieces for his sewing business. Me, I've made a few odds and ends for my hobbies, but they're pretty expensive things if I look at the time and expense I've put in to it! That wasn't why I built one, however, it was just something that I wanted to learn about, and anything useful that I make is a bonus!! Just don't expect to buy one and design and print a stamp in a few hours.