dikman

He wanted to make sure that the tools went to someone who would appreciate them (and I do!). I intend to strip the strap cutter and sharpen it. I have one of those ubiquitous wooden ones but this one should be much better. I found some old receipts in among the paper patterns, looks like a lot of the stuff was bought around 1970-71-72 (including some of the dye!!). There's another tray in the toolbox that I missed that has more tools in it.

But tinged with sadness. A friend of ours used to make belts and bags commercially many many years ago. He sold off the machinery but kept the handtools thinking he might use them again. Didn't happen and a couple of weeks ago at lunch, knowing I dabbled in leatherwork, he asked if I would like his (old) stamps. Naturally I said yes, so today went around to pick them up. The sadness part is that he just found out he has terminal cancer, with approx. 3 months to live. Came as a complete surprise to everyone. Anyhow, he took me out to the shed and it wasn't only stamps!!! A few photos, but I'm still sorting it all out. Approx. 70 Craftool stamps (much better than my cheap ones!), a set of nylon stamps (?), a set of large letter stamps, assorted hole punches (British made), 3 Carr presses (2 setup for fitting eyelets/studs), a tool box with assorted tools, boxes of buckles(!!!), more rivets than I'll ever use (decorative type), a couple of rawhide hammers, a strap cutter labelled G Barnesley, Sheffield, bottles of assorted dyes (all very old) and a large assortment of leather, mostly offcuts but some bigger bits too. Most of the buckles I'll never use as they're lightweight, sort of decorative, types so I'll have to get rid of them. I suspect a lot of the dye will go too, along with some of the leather scraps. I didn't want to appear picky there so just took the lot. Biggest problem - somewhere to put this stuff as my little shed where I keep my leather gear is already full!!!!!!!!

That type generally comes in only one size.

I would certainly have a go at fixing it (but I'm like that!). As Floyd said the damage appears to be on the inside so fine grinding wheels in a Dremel should take out the worst of it followed by fine wet and dry (used wet) then buffing wheels and polishing paste. I've treated a slightly damaged hook this way (not me, it came with the machine) and it now works fine. And try not to hit the hook with the needle, it's not supposed to do that.

Brian, you have just proved, without a shadow of a doubt, that you are indeed a NERD! Excellent job, I would think there is a market out there for such upgrade/mods, however given you also have a "day job" it's probably too much trouble to explore such an option. What's the LCD on the side for?

I assume you mean .8mm? (8mm is like thick string ). #138 is quite a bit thinner than .8mm. I normally use (approx.) 1mm waxed poly thread for handstitching holsters.

I was thinking the same as Matt re- the type of machine. Upholstery-weight machines are arguably one of the most commonly used types so second-hand ones should be around. Singer 111/211 class, Seiko, Consew would probably be the first choice due to parts availability (mainly feet). IF you're a DYI type of person then an option is to buy one with a "standard" table and then cut off everything that's not needed and reduce the table size to a minimum. A servo motor can be mounted on the top of the table, at the back of the head, it doesn't have to go underneath. Just a few thoughts.

At 1/2" + thickness I would hazard a guess and suggest a CB3200?

Thanks for the link VYO. Now that I know what to look for I found plenty on ebay, available locally for about $180 (not much cheaper buying from China/HK/Aliexpress). Yes, they're (very) small and thus limited in capability but looks like a bit of fun and can be stored - and used - almost anywhere. Looks like I'm due for a new toy.

I have three Skyrit motors - 2 x 550w, 1 x 750w - and on mine at least there's no output to control what you want to do.

Looks like the depth adjustment is set pretty shallow. Has this thing got a brand name? I rather like it for it's simplicity of operation and small footprint. I was going to buy something like Rocky's until I realised I have nowhere to put it!!!

I'd try what fred suggested, fine wet and dry used wet which should give a smooth finish. You could try applying car body filler to the surface first if you want it absolutely smooth when you sand it. Filing and using coarse papers can often leave these surfaces furry at the edges.

What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit.

The big problem with using cordless drill motors (for anything) is finding a suitable power supply as they generally draw at least a couple of amps (often more).

When I repainted one of mine I just used screwed up tissue paper pushed into the holes.

Well, I'm with catskin. Any machine can do what is drawn, but I'm having trouble picturing how anything can turn what is drawn into what you're describing. (But I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge of some of the esoteric capabilities of sewing machine attachments is sadly lacking).

That last post almost needs to be a sticky in itself, as it is a nice summary of the functions of the most commonly used machines.

No worries. I just asked the butcher for the "offcuts" from lamb/mutton that were headed for the scrap bin.

I made a batch several years ago (to use with my muzzleloaders) using a slow cooker, took several hours to rend down. I just store it in a shed where it goes through extreme temperature changes and it's still good.

Turning rancid is a real problem with a lot of animal/vegetable products, which is why beeswax/neatsfoot oil/lanolin are used in a lot of "recipes". One other possibility is tallow (rendered animal fat, preferably suet), this doesn't go rancid and stores well. I mix it with beeswax to help soften it.

An update to my long-term-soaking-in-a-bin trial. Didn't work! Left them to soak for several months over Winter but ended up with a browny-green solution that stunk!! So I threw it all out. Started again this year, half-filled a pot with green nuts (off the ground) cut into halves, filled with boiling water then brought back to the boil and simmered for an hour or so. Looks good and it's now out in the sun reducing down. I thought I'd try a cheaper way (i.e. not using gas to boil it), half-filled the pot again with chopped up green nuts and filled with cold water, then covered with a piece of glass and left out in the sun. We're having near 40*C days at the moment and at the end of the first day the pot was almost too hot to touch!! The heat was bringing out the dye, so I'll repeat this whenever we have a sunny day, looks like a cheap way to make the dye.

Brian, mate, you've definitely got some hidden geeky nerd in you!

" As it turns out he thought the motor was the sewing machine ". I hope you feel suitably guilty about knocking him down. You did very well indeed!

I've got slightly conflicting information for you. My 51W59 manual says system 128x4 but a comprehensive list of machines/needles I have says 128x6 (the listing says the 51W53 - 59 use the same needles). Mine was re-adjusted to use 135x5, which are pretty common.

VYO, that is simple but surprisingly effective.