dikman

Err Jimi, that appears to be a link to your C drive?

Sounds like a good "buy". It shouldn't be too hard to work on one of these (unless you're a complete mechanical numpty) and I would think any manuals covering models from the 31 series in general should help. As for the needles, if you can't (easily) find the correct size then just find the closest common modern needles and adjust the needle bar to use them.

Well done guys, waste not want not, as they say.

This is quite bizarre. Consew don't list a CSM3000 on their website when I searched for manuals. I found references, via google, to the 3000 being an upgrade to the 1000 but only showing it as a 2-button unit. I found one post from someone who bought one but didn't get a manual with it and had to contact Consew for it. All very strange. Did you get a manual with yours?

Donkeykong, yes, that is a saddlestitch, and like most things there is more than one way of doing it regarding where the threads come out each side. If you've figured out what works for you then .

Gymnast, there's no doubt about it, you are a nerd extraordinaire!

nylonRigging, which model Consew do you have? I can only find 2-button models on their website, the OP picture is a 4-button?

These codes are are usually different from make to make. Do you have a copy of the manual or instructions listing the codes? JJN 's suggestion makes sense, it has to be something simple.

Put another rivet in there, you already have one so it won't look out of place. A good start for a first holster, after a while you'll think "hmm, I can do better so I'll make another" and before you know it you're hooked!

Using a BIG pulley is equivalent to using a reducer, only simpler to make! Ignoring the forging he did (which is not necessary and he obviously only did it because he could) the only possibly trick part is making a new shaft, unless you have a lathe. Should be an interesting exercise Frodo.

I agree with kgg, while bells, whistles and pushbuttons might be nice I think that for most of us hobbyist/small-time producers a simple basic machine will be cheaper and easier to maintain. If the electronics fail on a complex machine you are faced with either a potentially big bill or ripping it all out to try and make it a basic machine - if indeed it can be done.

Looks like a fairly generic Chinese servo, similar to one I had but recently sold with a machine. There's no manual, the instructions are printed on the side of the control box. On mine the speed could be adjusted from the front panel using the +/- buttons. I didn't have the needle positioner but the motor worked fine.

Hi, my name is Bert and I have a problem......

So how much is it, $150 or $300?

Thanks for that. I collect manuals, I'll add them to the collection.

Thanks mate. The place it's coming from is halfway to the middle of nowhere (Emerald, Queensland) and a looooong way from me! I'm expecting it by the end of next week. It appears there is no "right way" to wrap around that lower tension assembly as there are a couple of factors to take into account including, as Wiz pointed out, the type of thread. A matter of trying it to see which way works for me.

That's exactly what Hightex do! As I said, it must create a lot of tension on the thread. It just seems pretty excessive to me? Bert, I've got rifles significantly older than me and they definitely work better than me, given their age!!

I recall reading earlier posts where this subject was raised and 1 1/2 wraps was said to be the correct way, which is why I was surprised by the Hightex method. It must work (for them) but it's got to be putting a lot of tension on the thread. Does anybody out there actually do it this way?

As I'm getting one I thought I'd do some homework before it arrives. I watched two videos on youtube about how to thread it - one from Hightex (Ryan) and one from Bob Kovar. Hightex do two full wraps, coming in via the wire guide above the lower tension assembly and then out via the same guide, Bob just does 1 1/2 turns. Hightex has the bobbin thread coming off anticlockwise, Bob runs it clockwise. They can't both be right?

The link worked for me in Australia. Interesting site, some of those could be worth it for the table and legs alone! Mark, until you have a lot more knowledge about machines I'd suggest you give places like that a miss, too easy to get caught out. You are going to be faced with the same unpalatable truth that many face when starting out - to do what you envisage you'll likely need more than one machine. For the lighter stuff (and might include the chaps, I'm not sure about them) the usual upholstery class machine with 3/8" under the foot and up to #138 thread should suffice. If you intend doing horse tack, which sounds highly likely, then you'll probably need a harness stitcher too (heavy duty sucker!). Having said that, a Cowboy 3200 might come pretty close to doing almost everything, depending on how heavy the horse tack is likely to be. Unless you want to invest a lot of time to learn how to adjust and maintain an industrial machine I'd suggest you consider buying from a reputable dealer who can give you support, whether you buy new or used. There's lifetimes of knowledge and experience on here (not me!) so you've come to the right place to point you in the right direction.

Obviously not a matched set. The one on the left is larger, with rounded corners and is aligned at the top of the frame, the right is a smaller frame and aligned to the bottom. Chuck 'em out and buy a new set.

And the reason they take so long to stop is because they have a massively heavy flywheel in them.

The "scratching" sound is a bit of a puzzle. With these type of motors about the only things that can go wrong are burned out windings, which you would know about by the smell and the minor problem that it would keep blowing fuses/tripping breakers, and seized/shot bearings. The bearings are obviously not seized because it's running and if they were shot/dry you would know by the loud rumbling noise. Unless it's very old, in which case it might have bushings rather than bearings, I suppose, but if they were worn it would be rattling! Sounds to me like it's running ok.

Look on the bright side, now you'll be able to tell us whether it's any good.