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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. dikman
    I'm with DFH. Over time and use that coating in the pulley grooves will wear off anyway.
  2. dikman
    A 550w motor should be plenty, but it's always a good idea to go with the biggest you can afford. Try it without a reducer first, it may be fine for your needs, if not add/make a reducer (don't forget to fit the smallest pulley you can to the motor, every little bit helps).
  3. dikman
    No question whatsoever - servo motor and fit a small 2" pulley to it. You'll probably find that you'll need to fit a speed reducer too as has been mentioned. I recently had to get rid of two clutch motors I didn't need and almost had to give them away, I got Au$10 each and figure I was lucky getting that!
  4. dikman
    Like they said. Did you stitch after sanding the edges? That stitching is way too close to the edge, so you've got very little support under the leather.
  5. dikman
    aroh99, he is turning it without the belt so it should not be too hard to operate, nor should anything be rubbing inside when doing it. Hopefully, based on what Alexander has said, it isn't damaged and is simply out of adjustment. The OP either needs to work through the adjustments in the manual or take it to a sewing machine mechanic.
  6. dikman
    I had a similar problem once, the linkages for the rear foot/centre foot were out of adjustment and the linkage was rubbing on the inside of the housing where it came through from the back. Just one possibility. The pressure on the knee lifter could be too much spring pressure from an overtightened tension screw on the rear spring. Do you have a manual with it? You need to study it to understand the adjustments on it. It is a concern though that the machine punched through the foam packing and into the wood.
  7. dikman
    The 201K is considered by many to be one of the best, and toughest, machines made by Singer - for its class, that is. I'm with Matt, for what you want to do an upholstery class walking foot would be the best bet.
  8. dikman
    Thanks Badem, as Tom said it has a clutch, but at 1/3 hp the motor isn't very powerful. Still looks like it needs a lot of work on it. I have seen those motors before, but blowed if I can remember where. I don't think they're very powerful (could be wrong). It's got a very small pulley on it!
  9. dikman
    That is an ordinary single phase motor, which means two speeds - stop and go. Is there a clutch/pulley arrangement underneath? If someone gave it to me I might consider it, but I wouldn't want to pay too much myself.
  10. dikman
    Thanks mate, most interesting. Unfortunately I can't think of a use for one , otherwise it could be a bit of fun to play with. Edit: I just had a look on ebay and 2500W units that look to be the same as yours are going for about $280? Any idea what's the thickest yours can cut in one pass?
  11. dikman
    Second photo, the sawhorse brackets.......I bought a set of those way back in the mists of time and haven't seen any since! Until now.
  12. dikman
    Nice one. Looks like you got a good one there jimi, mostly surface rust and dirt! That accessory plate looks like a neat idea, lots of holes for attaching all sorts of things.
  13. dikman
    I agree with Don, you'd be better off finding a machinery/lathe forum. From what I've read the most common solution appears to be a 3-phase motor with a VFD.
  14. dikman
    Are you talking about 12" between centres or 12" swing?
  15. dikman
    You did very well finding someone who had all the correct screws for a machine like that!
  16. dikman
    That looks to be in excellent condition!! You've done well.The only thing that I can see wrong with the table is the colour!
  17. dikman
    Welcome to the forum. I think you'll find with anything like this it's always a good idea to post a couple of photos, that way people may have a better idea of just what the machine might be.
  18. dikman
    Now that looks very classy! If you're going to tinker with making things in metal (as you have been) then even a medium sized lathe will be invaluable. A small mill is also very useful, but a milling attachment can be used on a lathe. I just bought one of those little lathes on ebay and it's quite useful for turning small items (the bigger lathe can be clumsy for small pins etc.) but it did need a bit of work to get it usable.
  19. dikman
    Got any photos? I doubt if silver soldering would be strong enough to withstand tightening up with an allen key, but if that's all you've got available I suppose it's worth a try.
  20. dikman
    Haven't got a lathe? You definitely sound like you need one! As for using a router bit to ream out the hole - (but I guess as long as it worked). These days if you do any metal work you really need a set of metric drills, taps and dies unfortunately. Even then you can still run into lesser used pitches that you don't have a tap for!
  21. dikman
    Machine stitching (at least using the usual upholstery type machines such as the Consew, Singer, Seiko, Juki etc) will never look as good on the reverse as hand stitching, regardless of the type of needle used. Leatherpoint needles will minimise it slightly. As for the motor, in all honesty the best thing to do is replace it with a servo motor, the single best thing you can do for sewing leather.
  22. dikman
    The laser project sounds interesting. More info would be nice IF you get the time.
  23. dikman
    Wiz made a good point, my bad, if you're not familiar with adjusting machines forget what I suggested. I think that manual I posted explains how to adjust the feet without touching anything else.
  24. dikman
    I would say that the condition of the screws sounds par for the course for old machines! All of mine have screws with varying degrees of butchery, plus some screws that obviously aren't original!! If it's only an issue when the feet are lifted manually by the lever then it can't be too far off, so as Wiz says raise the needle bar slightly and reset the hook-needle timing. I found this, if it's any help. pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF
  25. dikman
    Which model do you have? From what I could find out the H4 is designed for the 190 needle, all others require a 134/135 needle.
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