dikman

The newer 335's should handle 8mm (probably up to 10mm, maybe a bit more), the older models are limited to about 6mm (although if tweaked a bit it's possible to fit about 9mm under the foot).

No. Try sewing by turning the handwheel in the opposite direction to normal and see how far you get! My latest servo has a "change direction" option in the menu, but that's only there to let you mount the motor on the opposite side to "normal".

You done good! Looks very nice.

I bought a set of feet with a similar problem (not KH). I knew the needle was lined up ok with the feed dog so opened out the hole in the vibrating foot. If you do that just make sure you polish it well so you don't have any burrs.

Don, thanks for reminding me about that brochure, I'd forgotten all about it! (Brainfade, getting old....). They were Singer, it was their USA plant. Mind you, my 111W117 has some parts stamped Germany!

As mentioned, the W in the model number designation indicates it was made at the Bridgeport plant, USA. Unfortunately there are very few records available from that factory so it will be extremely difficult to date it.

I can't help with any of your questions (sorry) but it looks to be in very good shape. Nice buy! As for the missing parts, I've noticed that people do strange things sometimes.

Perhaps something to consider - you may intend to make smallish straps (for now) but with the 3200 you will have the option of making heavier gear if the opportunity arises. For leatherwork a cylinder arm is generally considered to be the most versatile design and as has been mentioned a small tabletop can be fitted if needed.

Real Heath Robinson job! (I've wondered what use a hand-drill would be these days). I like your use of setscrews.

First thing to understand is that if you want to make your own stamps you'll have to spend some (probably lots) of time learning how to create objects in a suitable 3D programme. Kits - a great way to learn about 3D printers, but again will require some time to build and get working properly. Kits were a cheaper way to get into 3D printing, but some of the ready-to-go units have come down in price so the difference isn't as great as it once was. Plus, if you have problems building a kit you're usually on your own and will have to figure it out yourself. Some people get good value from them, RockyAussie being one as he makes a lot of bits and pieces for his sewing business. Me, I've made a few odds and ends for my hobbies, but they're pretty expensive things if I look at the time and expense I've put in to it! That wasn't why I built one, however, it was just something that I wanted to learn about, and anything useful that I make is a bonus!! Just don't expect to buy one and design and print a stamp in a few hours.

JLS, I wasn't knocking Sam, I've watched his other longer video a couple of times, it's excellent, and as you say the content is very good. It's just that the sound quality on this one isn't up to the standard of the longer one.

I thought that with a couple of mine, but as they're working well I decided not to tempt fate!!

The other one that a lot of people swear by is 50:50 Auto Trans Fluid and Acetone.

If you look at a consew 206 manual you may be able to relate some of the adjustments to yours.

You didn't mention before that you may have been considering a CB3200. If you had then you would have been advised to buy that in preference to the others, as the only thing they all have in common is that they're industrial sewing machines! The 3200 should be a good fit for what your wife wants to make.

Hmm, "ultimate for leather"? I'd be wary of anything that salesman might say. No, can't be converted to a walking foot. Don't get me wrong, it can probably sew leather ok, within it's limitations, but I think for your wife you'd ideally be looking at a walking foot. That Singer should be good for 3/8" under the feet, I'd guess that the Adler is the same. The Adler looks like it's been resprayed.

Fraying thread - it looks to me like something is catching one of the strands, check the feed dog, hook etc for burrs or rough spots. The takeup spring may not be set correctly, allowing slack thread which the hook can catch or the needle may pierce. It's the most likely culprit to me.

Knife sheaths could be a struggle with those machines. As for the Viking gear, just how thick is it? The Singer doesn't have reverse but will have the advantage that parts and feet will be cheaper and possibly more readily available. The United isn't a walking foot. Adler I'll leave for others with more knowledge of their capabilities. You will probably need to factor in a servo, however, regardless of what you buy.

The sound quality on that video of Sam's is poor (very bassy).

The steel frame looks pretty reasonable, whether you re-paint it depends on how pretty you want it to look. Ditch the table top if it's warped, either make a new one (lots of posts about doing that), buy one or keep looking for a used one going cheap that you can adapt. The chain/pedal is used instead of a knee lift, but it looks like the bars and pivots to connect it are missing from the rear of the machine. I have an STH-8BLD, a slightly different model but I suspect some of the adjustments for timing could be the same (and the missing lift pieces). You should be able to find that manual (mine is 2.7mb, so too big to upload). I believe the machine may be similar to a Consew 206, the manual for those is readily available, and also the manuals for the Singer 111 series (111W153, for instance) may also be useful to understand setting the needle.

Seiko's are nice machines and judging by those photos $200 is a very good price. It shouldn't be too hard to find a manual for it. Looks like it probably just needs a good cleaning, oiling and adjusting. As for the epoxy, my guess is either the safety clutch had a problem or someone decided to stop it working by gluing it up solid!

Now I can see what you mean. That stand looks really nice, it would be a shame not to use it (I don't know how easy it would be to find a genuine Adler stand). If it will work with an adapter plate then I reckon you should give it a try.

If you're going to slow the machine right down then to a large extent that negates the need for a positioner as you can control the needle position fairly easily. You should be able to set any needle positioner for either stopping up or down, usually the controls will be "buried" in the menu system of the servo, so not just a matter of pushing one button. Some servos may allow you to set the pedal so that if you heel down on the pedal the needle will rise if the default is stopping needle down. Also, be aware that some needle positioners may not work if a pulley reducing system is also used.

I reckon he'll love it! I'll bet all his friends will want one too.

Welcome Steve. Photos are always nice, then people can see what you're referring to with the stand.