dikman

From Wiki - " The advantages of a brushless motor over brushed motors are high power to weight ratio, high speed, and electronic control". Which means they should be a bit more efficient than a brush motor, but honestly I doubt if, in the case of our needs, we would notice any difference. The main advantage I can see is that there are no brushes to wear out (but again, for most of us I doubt if that's likely to be a problem). As for "braking action" I doubt if they'll stop any quicker than the common brush motors many are using now - at least not enough that we're likely to notice it. Only reason I could see to change is if you wanted the "latest and greatest" , but I would also assume that they would come at a premium cost.

You did well on those horse rugs, that first one in particular looked a mess! Not sure that I'd be interested in trying to repair something like that! Yep, those old Seikos are nice, well made and if looked after will probably still be working into the next generation (I'm sure there will always be someone who appreciates old machinery).

The 335's are considered to be a very good machine for their class. Like most of them I see that it is setup with a binder, and while you can sew normally with the binder feet you will probably need to replace them with "standard" feet. By the way, I just read your OP a bit more carefully, and as Brian pointed out if you want to sew 12 mm you may need to go bigger. The 335 is designed to max out at 3/8"/10 mm under the feet. Depending on the leather you may squeeze 12 mm under it.

The Cowboy dealers here also have some slightly lighter duty machines (3200, for example) that would probably be better suited to what you're doing and are, I think, within the price range you're looking at. It would have the advantage of being new and come with a servo. Steve's Industrial Leather Sewing is also located in Qld, so could be handy for you.

I couldn't find a huge amount of info on it but the specs I did find indicate it's pretty close to a 441-type machine - which is heavy duty! It might be a bit too much for what you're doing. You didn't mention what size thread you're using. The RRP of $8700 is really pretty irrelevant in this case, as it's only worth what someone is prepared to pay, and considering a new Cowboy 4500 is about $4500 here in Oz if he hasn't sold it in 3 months then it's obvious that he's asking too much. It's the sort of machine I'd like, but not at that price. Plus it's got a clutch motor (!) which to me is a negative factor (as in more expense to fit a servo).

There's something very classy about those old treadle stands. I restored one once, but sold it because a.) I realised I wasn't going to use it much and b.) I didn't really have the room to keep it.

A goes with E = piping feet. C & D go with F = "normal" feet". Other bits - top is the part that the bobbin fits on to, bottom is the hook that rotates around the bobbin. The hook could just be a spare, or it could be worn out and was replaced but kept anyway.

Very neat job, albeit a slightly weird design . You used lot of screws on that job Uwe.

If the machine is adjusted correctly the reverse stitch will always be correct regardless of the stitch length selected.

If you know you are going to have a market for whatever you make then just get a suitable electric machine from the start. It will be the most cost-effective solution in the long run and will likely save you some grief down the track . The most important thing, however, is to figure out exactly what you're likely to be making, as this will determine the size (and cost) of a suitable machine. If you're going to make western-style holsters you will need a heavy-duty machine.

BARGAIN!!!!! Grab the other bits too, for $150 you can't loose! Nothing wrong with a servo with the control knob, it's simpler to operate.

Top mounted bobbin is definitely easier to access!

I guess a good place to start is with the 210 needle size (Needle style 16 x 257)? Put one in, turn by hand and see what the timing looks like.

I see you've got quite a fluff collection in there. Holding the end of a vacuum cleaner next to it and using a smallish brush works well for jobs like that. Unless you've either got bags of money or have no idea which end of a screwdriver to hold it's a good idea to spend the time learning how to take care of it yourself. Basic adjustments aren't that hard once you understand the principles behind how it works, and the knowledge will be invaluable for when it (inevitably) goes wrong.

At least the trip was worthwhile! Those machines should keep you busy while you get used to them. The 206's are nice machines.

It's a direct-drive unit, so I would assume that all the electronics are mounted in that housing attached to the head and shouldn't need to be removed? Gottaknow (Eric) is probably the only one who could clarify this.

LeatheryPalm, unfortunately you're up against the same brick wall that many have discovered - the search for the mythical one-machine-that-can-do- it-all. Once you start talking about holsters, particularly Old West holsters, you're entering the realms of heavy duty machines and big thread. You may get away with doing belts on a medium duty machine, but you're going to be restricted to lighter thread (a max. of #207 if you're lucky, most likely #138). If you're really stuck for space, then perhaps the new Cowboy Outlaw hand operated machine might be a better candidate? Doesn't need a motor or a special table or take up too much space.

Most any car grease should work fine, or white Lithium grease is often used on gears on lathes etc. As Matt said, it's not as if the gears are going to be under heavy/high pressure stress. I have an old model 201K (hand cranked, although I've fitted a spare motor that I had) and it's surprising what it can punch through, within reason. I only use the standard feet, but I don't see how you could turn one into an effective walking foot machine. I reckon if the foot you have fitted is working then I'd leave it at that (and save some money).

Looks like the new blends with the old quite well - but it looks a lot like bronze to me.

It's more to do with accessibility, any online programme that requires continuous access via the internet while using it (particularly to create things) is not something I'm attracted to as my internet connection can, and does, drop out erratically. For a while I was getting drop outs at 15 min intervals, which as you might imagine was extremely frustrating. It's better now, but still not 100% reliable (plus the speed occasionally slows, for no discernible reason). Consequently, if I'm going to be spending who knows how long to try and design something I prefer to be independent of the internet. As to Office, I have an old version (computer-based) which has served me well for years and continues to do so.

So it's an online programme, not standalone? Pity, I prefer standalone.

David, I like your solution. How about some construction details for the handwheel? In case anyone wants to try the same idea. I have a "mini metal lathe" which stopped working, the control board died. In the process I've learned a lot about the motors and controllers used in these lathes (usually an 80-90 volt DC motor and variable speed controller), and I reckon they could be used for a similar solution . The only problem with these motors is if they're run at slow speed for too long they can overheat, they need a suitable fan attached to the motor. The controllers, however, are very compact. Could have possibilities.

I think I'll stick to holsters (I can barely do them!). That croc looks amazing on the finished product, Brian.

Wiz, we used to refer to it as a "dark brown smell" when something electrical got cooked! As you say, it's quite a unique smell, and if we ever smelled it the immediate response was to cut the power (if possible).

Does the Seiko come with a servo?