dikman

Thanks for the offer, Brian. I've printed out quite a few things before and never had this problem so it's obvious that my fiddling around with the file has caused the issue. The bobbin measures 25.67mm/1.01" D x 11.2mm/.44" high. I figure it needs a smidgin more diam. to fit comfortably. My idea is to maybe stack two or three bobbins per slot, which is why the lid will need a hole so it can be rotated to the stack I want and then just tip out those. Singer bobbins will obviously be a bit loose (smaller diam.) but should still work. I should have just made a new (solid) lid with a centre hole and 1 hole at the edge, I guess. I still want to try and figure out what I did wrong. It's an hour later and I found out what I did wrong! I used the "scale" function to lower the height of the cylinder significantly, which, of course, meant that it also shrank the bottom layer accordingly - down to one layer of filament!! I'm learning..........

Thought I'd experiment with this. I started with a top piece so reduced the height and punched out one of the rebates to make a through hole. First problem, it only laid down a single layer before starting the rebates and as you can see it's not fused together (too far apart), second it warped when I removed it even though I used a heated bed, third the rebates aren't wide enough for my Seiko bobbins and fourth I seem to have introduced some distortion while messing around with the file . Back to the drawing board (in this case 123D). Wish I knew what I was doing .

First time I've seen anything with a reference to "W" serial numbers! Nice.

I tend to bounce around from forum to forum sometimes.........

Don't know how I missed this one - I measured the original handwheel off my 111WSV77 and yep, it's 1/2", so it's a pretty safe bet that the 155 would be the same as Glenn and Bob said.

Of course! It's always nice to have a new toy . I reckon you'll enjoy playing with one. There are many free files available on thingiverse for all sorts of things - some of them even useful.

I like it (being a Trekkie from way back when).

I've moved one or two of these types of things . Remove the head, remove the motor (assuming it's a clutch as they're heavy!), dismantle the legs and it all fits into the back of my Subaru XV with the seats down, of course. So should fit in a RAV4. Take along some old blankets etc for padding.

Maybe you should have printed just a couple first to try them out? I wonder just how critical that sideplay will be, if it's a snug fit over the zip then it shouldn't matter too much?

Gary, as Brian said if you buy an already-built one (look for reviews first to see what people think of it) then all you need to learn about is the slicer programme that converts to the G code needed to print. I use Slicer, it and Cura are probably the most widely used. This part of it isn't to hard to master. As for filament it's pretty cheap in the US, just start with your basic PLA. It gets complicated if you start fiddling with the operating system!

A couple more thoughts, Brian, I measured my bobbins and the Seiko is 1", the others slightly under so although they'd be a bit loose (which won't matter) they'll fit the existing design. Not knowing the height I don't know how many would fit in each slot, of course. This would mean that all the existing lid needs is a hole in it for loading/unloading (to use the firearm vernacular ). If you made one specifically for the smaller bobbins, so it only held one in each slot then by keeping the central shaft long one could simply stack them on top of each other. Lots of possibilities here .

That would be good and might suit a wider audience. The Singer/Pfaff bobbins aren't quite the same diameter (which I'm sure you already know) so making it for the wider one should cover a wider range of bobbins. One other thing that occurred to me is that you could obviously stack 2 or 3 of the smaller bobbins in each of the slots, so if the top piece was made with a hole in it that could be rotated to a particular slot then the bobbins in that slot could be emptied out without tipping the whole lot out.

Thanks mate. Some of those thinners are......nice.......wheeee.

I just tried a search for that glue and nothing came up. I'm curious as it must be a fairly thin contact glue to work in that small nozzle?

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

A bit of good old Aussie ingenuity! Nicely done Brian and thanks for taking the time to document this. A question - what is the red squeeze thingy you're using? I assumed it's for applying glue, but if so what glue are you using that's thin and doesn't clog the tube?

Brian, I really like that design, being a wheel gun shooter! If you create the .stl file I'll just HAVE to make one!! I'm beginning to think your talents are wasted on leatherwork.

Is it normal for those bevel gears to not have any grease on them? My Pfaff is greased.

I have a Tarantula and it works well enough BUT it comes as a kit and needed a bit of work to get it working properly. If you want to just plug it in and print do not get a kit. If, however, you like a challenge (and knocking your head against a brick wall!) and want to learn how these beasties work then a kit is the way to go.

Just curious, what do you mean "misses"?

140 needle is a bit big for #69 thread.

Nice! Thanks for posting this Brian. While it probably should go in the 3D section I think things like this should be in here too as I'm sure that many who might be interested won't think to look there. Please feel free to post any designs to do with sewing machines, more to add to my (growing) collection of possibly useful files. Only problem with that one gigi is that I have some bobbins that are aluminium! (But it would be simple to make).

Not really, but some subjects come up quite regularly (and this is one of them). Generally, with a heavy duty machine it will be almost impossible to stop getting marks of some sort, it's the nature of the beast. Even light/medium duty machines will leave marks on veg-tan. If you try to minimise the marks by reducing tension/pressure settings then you soon reach a point where the leather won't feed properly or starts lifting as the needle comes up, which can then cause missed stitches etc. Virtually every holster/belt that I've seen that has been made on a heavy-duty machine has had feed marks.

Fitting that old hand winder was brilliant! It's got me thinking......

If the recipient only wants a machine that they can just use and not worry about too much then I wouldn't consider giving the second one. It could be a simple problem, but then I'd have to ask why hasn't the seller fixed it. Unless you know something about industrial machines then buying one with an advertised problem could be an expensive mistake. If the price is right and you're prepared to spend time on it then it could be a good deal. Buying the two, as Uwe suggested, isn't a bad idea as you'd then have a working one to compare the non-working one with.