dikman

I don't see where the problem is - keep both, of course!

Man, what a bargain! It looks great after cleaning, definitely worth the drive. I bought a set of KH feet for my 335, very nicely made feet.

I can't read the spec. plate, but that looks like a brush-type motor. The screw at the top looks like a brush-holder mount, in which case it's the same type as found in electric drills etc. (not induction).

Thanks tt,, now that I look more carefully it's obviously not designed to be tilted back. Silly me.

I was also intrigued by the motor setup when I saw it and am interested to see the reducer fitting. I learned the hard way to keep belts as short as possible. I made a reducer setup with the motor under the table for my Seiko, which had quite a long belt going to the head pulley. I made a fancy spring-loaded tensioner (using bearings from a Honda Accord!) but I could not get it to run smooth as the belt always had a bit of slap in it. I finally re-hashed it using shorter belts and it works fine now. The only downside I can see to your fitting is not being able to tilt the head back?

I agree, doesn't look to me like it needs restoring paint-wise. Looks to me to be in pretty good condition (although the sight of that switch box made me cringe). And yeah, nice machine, just wanting it is a good enough reason. I was at my daughter's the other day for a bbq and something came up about sewing machines and I said I didn't need any more at the moment. My older daughter laughed and said "dad, I didn't think I'd ever hear you say that!"

Nice work so far. I looked at that green bin full of bits and chuckled - let's see, I need a small bolt here, this one? Nope, how about this one? Nope, next one........

As Floyd suggests, if the servo isn't slow enough then a smaller (2") pulley on the motor and, if necessary, a speed reducer should do it. I presume you've played around with the settings? Often they can be slowed but at the expense of top speed.

You'd better look after that hubby of yours, sounds like a handy person to have around!

Has the lever been removed to stop anyone changing the stitch length?

I have a "calibrated stick" that I use for just that purpose on one of my machines .

As a matter of fact I do , but I was raised on manuals. I'm right-handed, but some things I do left-handed - swing an axe, baseball bat, cricket bat, golf club and use a fork in my right hand when eating. However, for accurate control of the go pedal on the sewing machine I really need to use my right foot. So there .

Thanks for the pics, always interested in forged, hand-made blades. I reckon if you'd left the filework off and thinned the guard down a bit then with just a bit more patina on the blade, along with the forging marks, it would pass as an old Mountain Man-type knife. I like the handle, nice bit of antler. Now, the real challenge is to make a sheath that reflects the knife, one that looks old and beat up with years of use! Nice thing about forging is that you can use all sorts of scrap metal to make things.

I thought of using the "pedal" approach, but I would need it on the left side of the "go" pedal ('cos I need to use my right foot to make it go). It started getting complicated because of the lever system needed. Mine might not win any "aesthetic/design" awards, but it works. On my Pfaff, where you lift the lever for reverse, I just cut a "calibrated" piece of wood to put under the lever (even simpler).

I recently discovered that I needed three hands trying to start stitching in reverse on my Seiko (tried holding my elbow across on the lever but didn't work too well). After coming up with all sorts of wonderful (and complicated) ideas, I reverted to the KISS principle. A hole drilled in the table, a piece of threaded rod, a suitably shaped chunk of aluminium, a couple of springs, nuts and washers. I used two springs 'cos my "spare spring" drawer didn't have one long enough (or soft enough). The lock flicks in and out easily, and what's more it works. Total cost = a couple of hours.

You can't say it's hand forged and not show a photo of the blade! That's what's known as a tease.

That came up really nice - guess you won't be re-painting it?

Can definitely see wear in that first photo.

I just measured the clearance on my 111WSV77 and it's 10 thou total (being a 111 class I'd say the bottom end is going to be similar to yours).

Yeah, replacing that cam doesn't look like fun.

Regardless of the pros and cons of doing it this way, it's a nice delicate job of welding! If I tried that I'd probably end up with a blob!

The felt oiler is just that, a method of keeping an oil coating on the fork/cam contact area. I guess if it's been missing for a long time and the area hasn't been oiled then there may have been excessive wear? If there is wear then replacement would probably be the only answer (could be a big job, assuming you could get the parts!). Not something I've seen mentioned before.

So, after such a good find what are you going to do with the SV?

My first thought on seeing the brass block was also a knee lifter contact point, judging by the scratches on it.The blue knob is interesting as my Pfaff 335 has a position for such a fitting and I've always wondered what it would be used for.

Also slang for hitting someone. Mike, however, has pointed out the more common usage of the term.