rickybobby

Wow, Nice Job!! It was a good choice using the black contrast for fringe and thread on the grey pair. I have not mustered up the courage to contrast to many trim colors, I usually stay in the color range I am working with (like brown & light brown! lol !!) I am afraid I will end up with something that looks like the "Golden Arches" or worse, unintended Rodeo chaps !!! Both pair look excellent, the customers should be very pleased. Rick

I bought a used Artisan 3000 (short throat) I was lucky enough to buy it from Cobra Steve, he took 2 in trade and I was the first phone call for it. It works like a charm and was priced right. I will use it to make enough money to add the Cobra 4 (deeper throat) later in the year. As Art said, multiple machines are a time saver in production set up. Oh yea, I still wish I had by Boss for some jobs, great machine for some projects, I would use it once in a while if it were here just to save some time on some projects but I don't miss it on those "long runs!" 50in + belts!!! Rick

After using the Fiebings White (just a light coat) Use Meltonian Nu Life Spray Dye (in White color) It is available in most colors. It covers better and faster then anything else. A couple lite coats then use your regular finish product (tan kote, Atom wax, ect.) http://www.shoeshineexpress.com/dyesmeltonian.asp Rick

Nice Job! I like them both. Great Idea on how you laced the brown one, I have never seen it done like that (w/slot punched and 3 straps threaded through). The green one is very "Zombie" like. The stitches and rivets give that "fell off and put back on" look!! Rick

Kevin, I just saw them at the Phoenix Tandy (35th Ave / Greenway) Ken Evans is the manager. I will be there monday, I can pick one up and send it to you. Rick Jorgenson

Richard, I would check out San Luis Obispo California. I lived in Ventura Ca. for most of my life, moved to Hilo Hawaii for a couple years (did a little leather work there) and am now in Anthem Arizona for the last 3 years. Of the places I have lived I am looking at the central coast of Ca. Life was limited in Hawaii, sure it was paradise but I could no longer earn enough money to stay full time. The summers in Phoenix are the pits, it never got below 99 degrees most days (and nights) this last Aug. I still have family here but the drive from Ca. is 6 hours and if I need to see them I can do it. Far enough away to not be a drop off point to baby sit my sisters kids! They are fun but I like to have a choice! My wife (I met her while in Hi. she is from the east coast) loves the Ca. coast. I have taken her on the couple trips and she loved the central coast. (San Luis Obispo, Morro Bay, and surrounding areas.) There are lots of horses, tack/feed stores and I see a chance at some custom work and tack repair. I am working at building my leather business online so I can sell from anywhere and the local stuff would just be a boost. So that is my vote, it is where we are looking and are spending some days vacationing there every chance we get to get to know the area better. Rick

Hi, There are a couple of tell tale signs that the saddle is from a production shop probubly south of the border, the finish nails in the front of the seat leather above the concho I have seen used on those saddles a lot. the style of the cantle assembly is used on some from this type of manufacturer. You may find that staples are used in assembly and there are only 1 or 2 screws holding the rigging along with staples. Look at the ground seat strainer, there may be a "kink" in the metal (look under the saddle between the skirts) I have seen them bent so much that they are sure to sore a horses back right on the spine. Look for nails or screws along the bars. Many times thay are put there to hold the skirts on and seem to work their way out (may sore a back) The tooling appears to be "pressed" in and hand detailed. This is done many times to give a hand tooled look. There should be no reason the the stirrup leathers could not be shortend. Try another shop !! If there are no safety issues (rigging and stirrup leathers) and nothing to sore the horses back, it should be o.k. to use. Be sure to change the billet and off side billet. There is no way they are safe given the information that the saddle was stored for years. These should be changed at least once a year anyway with normal use and care. With these saddles (if it is what I think it is, made in mexico in a production shop) the leather may not condition well. If it is soaked to much with oil it will begin to break down and fall apart. Also, if the shirts are "plugged" with cardboard (yes most saddles like this are) the oil will destroy it and fall apart. So be careful how much you condition or oil the leather. Do I think you got "Ripped off?" I think you were lied to (about the custom make of the saddle) For what it is worth, I think $150.00 could have been added to the price of a better saddle and you would be much happier and SAFER then with this saddle. This information is just my opinion from your photos. I could be wrong but I hope it gives you some additional knowledge to shop for saddles. Rick J.

Thanks Ann, I have been wanting to try the mystery braid!! Thank you for doing the vid. great job!!

Hey K-man, I have done some of these "quilted" patterns on some projects and used the Craft tool B997 beveler on the lines. I have not checked to see if Tandy still sells them. If you need a picture of it I can take one and post it. Hope this helps, Rick

As always Bob, beautiful work!!! Rick Jorgenson

Very nice work!!

Oiling the bobbin area is pretty easy. There are no "oil holes" so just a couple drops in the track area for the bobbin shuttle should do it. Rick

You might post a couple pictures so the process of fading can be seen. Just to take a guess I would think that you may be stamping while the leather is to wet. Leather stamping impressions will stay best when the leather is properly cased. Unfortunatly that process does take some time spent in a plasic bag then additional time out waiting for the leather to just come back to "original color". Use the "Search" function and type in "casing leather" there are several threads that explain it better then I can. Quality of leather can make a difference too. Rick

Nice job!! I saw this when you first posted it while working on it, The finished product is amazing!! Rick

Bryan, After the swell is finished and other parts are done and ready to assemble, I rewet the swell, wrap it in a plastic bag overnight, then trace my pattern, swivel knife, and start tooling! If there is another way "I need to know!" If you were to tool it first then put it on the tree you would loose the depth of the tooling and smooth out tooling marks while working the swell cover to fit. Rick

[quote name='hiloboy' timestamp='1317435525' post='215544'] Well i'm sorry to ask the same thing.. what machine do i need to get? i'm looking at a Consew 206rb-5 and a cowboy cb227r..i want to use it to make wallets,handbags,vests,saddle bags,and tool and bar bags..i know maybe both.. but what one first? if its the cowboy cb227r does any one make a flat bed table for it?or how hard is it to make one..if you have any other ideas on what machine i should get before i pull the trigger.. ALL IDEAS WELCOME...i have read until my eyes are bleeding..and i'm still not sure..WIZ, or someone i need some help... Aloha Curt, I would think about the CB3500 or a something like that. The reason is the cb227r will only take up to 138 thread and only has 3/8 sewing capacity. The CB3500 will go from 138 thread and up, and will sew as light as 6oz up to 3/4 of and inch of leather or more. This may come in handy doing some saddle bags or some repairs for other things. You will limit yourself with the smaller machine, yea, it would be great to have both! I called Cobra Steve and he had taken a couple Artisan 3000's on trade, I bought one over the phone and drove 6 hours to pick it up! Look for that kind of a deal too, they are out there when someone trades up! (Hey, no trade up yo rubbah slippahs when you leave!!) I lived on The Big Island for a couple years, south of Pahoa. I miss it! Aloha, Rick

Hi, I have done a few of these color changes. Here are the steps and products I used... 1. Use acetone to strip off any polish and color that will come off. Be very thorough removing anything that will come off. 2. I used #1000 grit sand paper to rough up the surface. I used the "wet and dry" paper used for automotive refinishing. (dry) 3. Use green "Frog tape" from Home Depot to mask off anything that you do not want to color. Buckles, soles, heels, or uppers if doing cowboy boots. 4. After a few hours of dry time to let fumes dissipate. Spray with Meltonian Nu Life spray dye (there are over 40 colors) several light coats work best, spray until covered and color is even. Thick material on edges will only chip off when removing masking tape. Pull tape when dry enough to handle (an hour or so). 5. After a day of dry time, use Meltonian Cream Polish (near the same color as the spray) for a color finish. 6. To seal the whole job, Meltonian Spray Shine is a clear finish. Just a couple light spray coats to seal the color. Usually changing from a light color to a dark color works better then a dark color to a light color. I have done both and it has worked, good prep work will give you the best finished product. Rick

Nice detail on both!!! Rick

Nice looking buckles. Good job on the tooling, it is a great look on that holster! Rick

Hi goodfella, Nice looking rigs! I like the leather you are using. Are you coloring it or are you buying it pre dyed? Would you share your source for leather? I sure would like to try some! Thanks, Rick

There are many regulations for tanners and the cost of production has gone way up. The good news is because of the regulations there is not as much pollution being dumped in to the watershed, streams, and rivers as previous years. The down side is the additional cost to your customers for their goods. If you are pricing your finished goods correctly, you should be MAKING 25% on the leather in addition to your labor. If you are not in business and making things for yourself, family and friends, then the leather is costing you more.:poofan: Just my .02cents Rick

I am a huge fan of the Tipman Boss. That said, I sold mine after a year and bought sewing machines. I have to say it was because business increased and the need for a medium weight sewing machine as well as a heavy stitcher was a "must have" for things to look right. You will get 90% of your money back when you sell the Boss, beginners and hobbyists will buy it after a few hours of listing it for sale. If you are looking at increasing your production look at the smaller stitchers (Cobra 3, Artisan 3000, Cowboy 3500). Check for used ones, Steve at Cobra had an Artisan 3000 (well under $2000.00) for a trade in I just picked up very reasonable, they are out there. As usual we will say "The right tool for the job is the best" I sold my Boss (great machine) and have never looked back (it is almost the same money for a powered machine). And after a few months, your right arm will shrink to the same size as your left!! You will no longer fear the double stitched "Big Boy Gun Belt" at 50 plus inches! Just charge your $15.00 extra and push the pedal!!! Just my .02 cents Rick

The glue just will not stick very well. I have glued the pieces together as usual and used hand shoe tacks every 3 or 4 inches on straight lines and every 1 1/2in or 2 in. on turns. Just "clinch" the points on an iron plate VERY EASY just so that point turns a little, the head will stay above the leather making them easier to pull out. They do a great job of holding that leather together to stitch. Just pull them out with pliers when you come up next to them in the machine. 3 or 4 oz. size will do you, all shoe findings companies stock them or go to your local shoe repair shop to see if they will sell you a 1/4 or 1/2 a box. (a whole box is about $6.00 wholesale). Southern leather in Denver stocks them. Rick

I asked this quesstion several years ago trying to make the most of my first blue gun purchase. Several people responded and the main theme seemed to be "see what is popular in your area" if selling to your friends or law enforcement people in your town/city. Use the "Search" box in the upper rt corner of the screen and type in "Blue Guns" or "Blue Gun" and you will get several threads to follow. I have collected some of mine just watching the forum here and when a maker is selling off "extras" they no longer use I have picked up several, otherwise I just buy a few that I need at a time. They pay for themselves just making one holster (the expence of the blue gun) and then you start making money with it as you make additional pieces and sell them. Make several (4 or 5) at a time to start building a stock. Here is a list I got from several people when I asked... Glocks, several variations 1911, several variations J Frame, 2 inch snub XD, in .40cal and .45cal I live outside of Phoenix Az. so the 1911 is the "gun of the day" locally here but you will get orders for others as your friends start to need holsters for their other weapons and that is how the collection of blue guns grows. Search for threads done by forum member "Lobo" in advanced search. Ray has a lot of good business advice about the holster business and his information is solid when it comes to cost vs. payoff. Hope this helps, Rick

Hi Dan, You would get a lot more action from your ad if you had photos and prices. It would generate a lot more interest! Just trying to help (and I would like to see the goods!! ) Rick