rickybobby

Beautiful design! I like the simple elegance, you brought all of the best elements from your inspirations and materials together perfectly. A very manly bag! Rick

Try soap and warm water with a fine bristle BRASS wire brush. If that does not clean the funk out try acetone and the brush.

Monica, Recieved them today! Thank you for sending them out so fast. Rick

Great design! Thanks for the photo. Nice work!! I need to go cut some leather!! Rick

Monica, I'll take the ... Ring's XD-40 5" Tactical Ring's S&W 2" snubby (J-frame) Ring's Beretta 92 Ring's Beretta magazine 92D P.M. sent

Very nice holster!! I would think the front "wing" would add some stability to the small framed handgun. I think I would like to try on of those for myself to see how it carries! Question, How are you attatching your belt loops to the holster body?? I am glad this was bumped up, I would have hated to miss it!!

Very nice rig.

Shooter, Have you tried an "Oval" hole punch. Maybe the additional width in the hole area would help that lay down? Can you post a picture?

You might also try NuLife spray. You can change most any color of leather to any of the 40 or so color sprays they have. Clean the leather well first with acetone, let it dry, rough it up with 600grit sand paper to knock the shine off, first cote is a light tack cote, second coat covers, if you need a third to gloss it out wait for 10 or 15 min.s between 2nd and third coat. polish with some shoe polish after a few hours of dry time and its done. http://www.burtendistribution.com/showcase/charts/meltcs.htm I have used it to change black shoes to white and it works great. And yes it is flexible and does not crack !

You can buy prestacked Cowboy Heels, they also stock Roper Heels. . I am not sure what you mean by "pre-pounded" Southern Leather in denver is a source They come in several sizes

Very nice job!! Tooling, colors, details all look great! Figure carving is a another artform itself and you have nailed it!!! Your brother will be thrilled. Rick

Hi Shelly, Maybe some photos of the different styles you have available? And prices? The button covers already clicked out is a very cool option. Most of us have access to buckles or have them "in stock" or would like to pick out their own. I know with my customers, whatever I don't have in stock is exactly what they want! As someone already posted, have a price for a pair or two. Then a price for a lot of 6 pair or more. Flat rate shipping is a good way to go! Rick

Reuben I found that most people run their Boss pretty "dry" because the factory did not seem to lubricate them out the door. I founf that mine did the "popping" thing too, then I went to the garage and brought in the can of axle grease (found at any parts store) and lubed up the inner mechanisms and used lighter oil on the outer movements and the thing smoothed out like a dream. By keeping it lubricated I could concentrate on thread tension, sewing. keeping my fingers out of the way lol!!! Best of luck!! Rick

As always Bob, incredible work!! The flow of your flowers, leaves and stems are perfect. Love the "finger cut" scroll work inside. The attention to details you put into a piece is "first class"!! I have a couple questions; What materials are you using for your antique? I am sure a lot of color is burnishing in your tooling but the rest of the leather has a rich tone to it that is beatiful! And second; Does having the stitches so close together (11 per inch) weaken the seam? It must be working for you or you would not do it. I have always read that if they are to close in leather that it will make the seam rip like perferated paper? Your work is an inspiration and I have always admired it from when you started posting here on LW. You have always been very generious with sharing your techniques and we all appreciate the time you take to share. Thanks for posting, Rick J.

DM, There is a market for your machine; unfortunately it is a small one. These machines only do one thing well…SEW BOOT & SHOE SOLES!! Great if you are doing that LOL!! I bought one from a boot shop and moved it (950lbs is what one dealer told me) it took 3 of us and a cart + a refrigerator hand cart to get it in the horse trailer! A boot maker or new “wannabe” boot maker is a good group to list it for sale too. Check out boot and shoe websites… http://customcowboybootsandshoesforum.com/discus/discus.cgi?pg=topics Also, list it here on LW with a photos and on “Leather Pro’s” website. There are boot makers on both forums. Biggest problem you will have is someone will want it but lives to far to pick it up themselves, consider getting a quote for crating and shipping from some freight companies so you have an idea of cost, that will be one of the first questions people will ask you. If all of it is in working order the value should be $1200.00 to $1600.00 + shipping ???? Hope this helps, Rick J.

Forkbeard, I have always defended the "boss" stitcher in threads here on LW.net, I bought one, used it for years, sold it, and only missed it a couple times. I have learned about sewing machines and in our shop now have 10 different machines for sewing projects with 1 more on the way (Cobra class 4). If you are serious about leather work Just buy the entry level Artisan or Cobra class 3. I think they have a 9 inch throat so holsters, belts, wallets will never be hard to get it there. With the servo motors on todays machines you can sew slow and concentrate on what you are doing. There is quit a learning curve with the "manual" machines and isn't life just tough enough? concentrate on your leatherwork and there will be no fear of screwing up a project when you pop it in the sewing machine, you will mess some up with the manual stitchers. I wasted a few years thinking all I needed was the Tippman Boss, it does have its place (I could have used it twice in the last year) but move past it into one of these entry level sewing machines, you will be much happier. Just my .02cents and worth every penny of it.

Very nice job. Are they done in the martingale style like your others? You support a great cause, rescue animals are the best! Rick

Charlene, I was in the same boat. Take the patterns, cut them out and tack them to your tree, use a pencil to draw lines and cut them to the shape you want. Tear them off the saddle stomp on them, burn them, and start all over again! ( just kidding) Paper is much cheaper then leather, you can cover the tree with paper to get the shapes you want. The D.J. Patterns are so large I eneded up with my final patterns 2/3 to 1/2 as large. They are just a start for you to see something on the tree. I also blew up the A.S. patterns at a local print shop, had about $15.00 in it all and did the same thing. Build your saddle with paper paterns first, cut them to the shape you want then cut leather. Check the Bill Gomer saddle building DVD's they help with the whole process very well. Rick

Ricky, I used the A.S. 3 book set to start building saddles. It was a good way to get your feet wet but not the only way to build a saddle. The Bill Gomer tapes show you how to make your own patterns and I started to do that with the A.S. books, there was no saddle maker around for me to ask. While repairing customers saddles if I saw a stirrup fender that I liked I would trace it and may use it on the next one. This builds confidence to try some of your own ideas. Bottom line for me was to get started the Stohlman books could get me through start to finish and give me questions to ask to refine my skills. Dusty Johnson has a set of patterns available for about $10.00 or $15.00. They are over sized but can get you a start to get the shapes you want. ( there is no seat pattern) The seat is the most difficult because there is no one size or shape, the bill gomer tapes can help with that. Years ago I was in the same mode you all were in looking for the right patterns to build a saddle. There is no secret being held back from us, they just are not out there. We need to modify and adapt what we can get our hands on. The books and tapes/DVDs help with that. P.M. me and I will be glad to send what I have for a basic set, (shipping only $$) but again, there is no one perfect seat pattern. I have seen a you tube series that covers the seat, it was a couple years ago but search for it. Get as much info as you can. Rick

Steve, You have had a challenging year, many changes and losses for you. Many people like to get on the computer and "flame" others, it is very easy to do. I see this as a genuine attempt at turning a problem with your business around. Your company has not been around for 100 years because of poor service. You understand it all falls on you and you are here to make it good for those customers that will participate. For those that will spend the time typing an entire thread here on LW.net to trash talk but will not send you an email, it is their loss and their prerogative. While you were traveling back east and abroad I think some things slipped past your employees. That you will need to deal with and, send them down the road if they cannot represent the company how you need them to. Stick with your game plan and look ahead and the business will follow. Rick

Hi, We installed a "stitch picker wheel" on a one horse motor with an arbor attatched. There was some grinding needed for one bolt so it would fit inside the picker opening. The slower the motor moves the better it works. After cutting the soles off lightly sand the underside of the welt being careful not to hit welt stitches! Then use the picker, it will remove 80% to 90% of them. Sometimes it will remove them all, that is a good day!! The picker can be bought from Southern Leather in Denver or maybe most shoe supply sources. I think it was about $13.50 The arbor was $18.00 and the motor was out of a old desert cooler (1750 rpm's) It needs to run slower so install a speed reducer on the cord from a fan to slow it. I have used it on boots and saddle skirts! Makes both a quicker job!! Ask for the 1/2inch opening for the picker and the arbor Rick

Ellen, I have the Ebay burnisher, it is very quiet, I mounted it on a Harbor Freight collapsable table (looks like a Black & Decker Workmate but only $20.00). I do not like the wax finish it leaves on the edge. Once you use it on a piece of leather there are no other finish options for you to use because of the wax. I use it on occasion but not for everything. I might look in to a couple other arbors that will fit the moter and mount other materials to them, one with wood, one with felt, ect. and change them out depending on the job. I will put that on my list of things to do! #4534! Rick

Hi, We use it all the time in our shop. It works great, leaves the leather looking very "healthy" without being oily. I buy it wholesale from Southern Leather in Denver. I also really like R.M. Williams but have not found a wholesale source for that.Item number:250542254239 Rick

Chain, Your work rocks!! I am never offended by your stuff, you give plenty of notice of its content! Love your style. Glad the meds are working! Take care, Rick