fredk

or Trophy shops/suppliers

I didn't know you could still get that stuff. I used to get mine from a firm called Eastwoods [afair] in the 80s & 90s. I must see if I can get it my side of the A. Repeated dipping can give you quite thick layers. On one car part which I wanted coated I stopped at about 6mm thick

yeah, know what ya mean. I aint got nuffin I can do bodgery repairs on anymore

yaay, go for it man!

I assume you did not buy it in person? EU Distance Selling Regulations [DSR] clearly state that the sender is ultimately fully responsible for getting the goods to the buyer in good condition and fit for purpose. You are only responsible if you specified the seller to use a certain courier. Its up to the seller to claim off the courier Not knowing how you paid for it, unless it was by cash or BACS, you could put the case to the payment agency. [eg credit card or paypal] This is UK & EU law; does not apply to other countries ouside these areas

According to ISMACS your serial number is for a 66, and falls in a batch of numbers [AG 253776 to 288775] allocated on December 16th 1941

Just did a quick scan of this thread. If the there is no pressure on the broken part; the idea of pegging and JB wedl [aka chemical metal] might work Or search out someone who repairs vintage car engines and gear boxes; they usually have the facillities for stitch welding cast iron If you're looking any decent sewing machines try this place in Staffordshire, I got my 15k from them and I'm about to order another diffrerent machine. Good packing, serviced before its sent, good back up; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/SEWING4EVERYONE?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Really, thats all very interesting. In no way am I questioning your information I'd just like to say I know [not personally, ie socially] of 3, perhaps 4, people who have set themselves up as saddlemakers through having done a few repairs on saddle and harness. From asking them I know they did not do any course at all on leatherwork never mind saddlery

I must ask the OP to clarify what sort of strap. One to carry it, an over the shoulder strap? or a closure strap to hold the top closed? Or both?

I dilute 1:1 with water and apply to dry leather, either by dipping, sponge or brush 2 coats for a finish with a slight sheen, 3 or 4 for more of a shine then followed by beeswax/neetsfoot oil mix rubbed in and buffed up hth

I get my leather from Leprevo in Newcastle, north England. They might send to you. In theory there should not be any customs charges as we are both in the EU [still] I just tell Leprevo what I want, what I need it for and leave it to them; they've never let me down in 17 years of buying from them Send them an enquiry, it can do no harm. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/ PS; they are far, far way cheaper than Tandy for leather

I too use the wooden Tandy strap cutter. I just never trust the measurement gauge printed on it, its not accurate at all. For buckle straps I cut a bit of card to fit thru the buckle and use that to set the strap cutter

Better apart and dull then still stuck together and unuseable. A good coating of a beeswax polish will bring the shine back up

What about trying a soaking? not just a wetting but a real immersion in water for a period?

The OP says he makes em; they're scarf slides SoTX; never seen any book or nuffin on making these or anything like them. Looks like you may be a leader on that. Does look like thinner leather might be the way to go tho

I would draw/mark just a guide line, then stamp the design along it then go over the guide line, cutting or stamping it wide enough to cover up any overlap. Or if the fancy stamp is cheap enough and I was going to use it a lot I'd buy another and file its corners off to suit the curves just my $1 dollar [inflation] worth

Nerver, ever 'bin' an item that hasn't turned out how you expected it to Someone else will think its great and pay decent money for it. If you have a 'bin' of rejects, failures or second-quality its not good publicity for your other work I find finishing of leather products is like art; there are no failures, just things don't turn out how it was expected to I think that holster has a certain antique & used look to it

I haven't but a client did. He showed me what a really nice shine he got. A week later he was back; the wax had dried out and was flaking off making his item look like it was falling apart. It took me ages to remove that wax and refinish the item. Turtle wax is not meant to be used on anything flexible, just unbendable surfaces like the hood or trunk lid of a car

I agree, it looks like upholstery leather Easy test; take a small cutting, use a match/lighter/candle to set fire to it - if it smells like burnt flesh you have leather, if it starts burning and giving off black smoke with small black sooty bits you have PULeather

As above; quality zippers last better than cheap ones whether they be plastic, aluminium or brass. However, in damp or wet environments the aluminium one will corrode faster and seize up sooner.eg, a case for a fishing reel; use plastic or brass for quality, but not aluminium

I bought a set of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172479859661?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Not used them yet but I reckon they might come in handy. As they come they're ok sharp Also bought a few of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Half-Round-Belt-Strap-End-Punch-Wallet-Cutter-Tool-Leather-Craft-10-45MM-/391213513381?var=&hash=item0 They need a good sharpening when they come [how do I get rid of this double spacing of lines??]

I'm watching from the bleachers

I always skive a short length, just like the buckle end of a belt; from where the end would attach thru to the end of the strap

I used an angle-grinder to cut a large circle hole punch down to an arc