fredk

The customer is always right, even when he's wrong. If he insists on snaps at least discuss the pros & con of snaps versus Chicago screws

What size are you looking? I got a 1cm x 1cm Bw stamp from this ebay seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/013-19-Quadratic-Basket-Handmade-Brass-Leather-Stamp-collectibiles/142892490974?hash=item21450e60de:g:V5UAAOSwwbdWQhwn BiN; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/013-19-Quadratic-Basket-Handmade-Brass-Leather-Stamp-collectibiles/132707077572?hash=item1ee5f54dc4:g:V5UAAOSwwbdWQhwn Good quality, it arrived in about 4 days from him. This design is so simple one could cut it with a dremel type drill and a file

Thank you for the answer. 8 oz is indeed quite heavy/thick. I suppose I would have used about 5 oz / 2.2mm

thats well tidy mun edit; PS. What weight/thickness of leather did you use?

Science lessons time. Leather is made of lots of fibres, criss-crossing every which way. There are packed together in layers, looser on the flesh side getting tighter on the grain side. When you apply dye the dye attaches to the surface of the individual fibres. Dye applied to the flesh side soaks in quickly as it can penetrate the gaps between the fibres; put enough on and it'll dye the grain side eventually. The compactness of the fibres on the grain side doesn't leave any space for the dye to run into. Wetting or dampening the leather opens up the fibre structure and allows the dye to flow. 'Acylic' is used as short hand for the dyes or sealant. The colour or sealer is an acrylic resin in a carrier, usually for us its either alcohol or water. When the carrier evaporates off the resin hardens. There is actually very little resin in the mix. After dyeing, when we put on thinned coats of acrylic sealer, it attaches to the fibres like the dye and hopefully it locks the dye onto the fibres. But there is still gaps between the fibres. Room enough for beeswax and neetsfoot oil mix to be rubbed it. Putting on the BwNFO first I think fills in too much of the gaps not allowing the acrylic sealer to get to the fibres Did you do science at school? Did a teacher ever do the 'Is the bucket full' bit? First he puts a load of golf balls into bucket. Is it full ? Yes we say, Then he pours a load of ball bearings into the bucket. These fill the gaps. Is it full? Yes. Then he pours in a load of sand, which fills more spaces. Is it full? Yes. Then he pours in water till its up to the brim. Is it full now ? he asks .....um, not sure now. Thus with leather; theres lots of room for more liquids to be added.

I would suggest they are cutting it to get the sizes people want to buy A shoulder needs cut in two if you want to buy a half-shoulder, a whole hide needs cut in two if someone wants a side

Just a couple of weeks ago I ordered a new 'maker' stamp from a seller in China, via ebay. Ordered it with another special stamp. The 'maker' stamp I ordered was an oval design, 3cm in width by what-ever high it cost me £14.99 inc s/h. It took all of 10 days from placing order till it dropped thru my letterbox. The other stamp was 6cm wide, it cost £24.99 inc. I've only ever got binary stamps made by the Chinese sellers. I don't think they can cut shaded types.

I do it other way round; I seal with some coats of diluted resolene then burnish in a beeswax/neetsfoot oil mixture

You need something of interest in that patch of green meadow Divide your image into 9 spaces; two lines vertical at equal spacing and two across at equal spacing. This'll give you a grid to work on 'the rule of thirds' for image composition. Items of interest should lie on or about the intersection of the thirds. Also draw a triangle from the rider to the cabin to ??? and then back to the rider - you have no dynamic triangle as you do not have that third point of the triangle - something in that meadow will complete the triangle - somewhere about the third/fourth fence post from the right and just a bit below where the post goes into the ground

I use both on the same items. I've never heard those reasons you quote. I wouldn't agree with any of them

Not leather work - its about chocolate. In short the story proves how hard it is to 'trademark' [or 'copyright'] a shape. The maker of KitKat has not proven its ' distinctiveness' against rivals' similar bars https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-44939819

I get mine directly from sellers in China/Hong Kong/Malaysia via ebay. Price about £1.60 per 10, cheaper in bigger orders. They are better too I think as the shank is parallel and not tapered

I'll throw in my $2 worth [inflation!] Your Leather work is a craft, but not just any craft. Its a skilled job. Where you live people will always need horse harness and chaps and the other items made of leather. Those people will also need car mechanics, electricians, butchers; your leatherwork is no less than one of those occupations As long as you can read, write, do maths, communicate properly, you'll never starve knowing how to make good things in leather. I once knew a chap who traveled the world. He knew two things; how to teach English and how to play a guitar. Thats all he took with him. Traveled the world for 8 years just doing one or the other. He never starved

sheesh, you do powerful good work. You have real talent for this leatherwork thing

way to go!! Feels good, don't it?

Copyright laws are slightly different in the UK and Europe. There is no such defence as 'fair use'; breach of copyright is breach of copyright - simple. But as Bob says; how much are you willing to spend on lawyers? Rip off a Disney character and they'll have your ass in court as soon as you blink because they can afford it [or rip off a pop star's image eg Rihanna; a court case in Belfast, small shop printed her image on T-shirts, sold a few dozen shirts. She had them in court. sued, and won thousands of $$] When a product goes into patent office before a patent is granted a lawyer and a person from the office searches the records to make sure there hasn't already been a patent issued and that the item is not a 'common use' item eg. you can't patent a potato peeler, but you can patent any improvements to make it work better PS. Note how Tandy do it. They will sell you the plans/patterns to make nice leather goods. They have the copyright in that design usually and they not only encourage you to make that item, but to make more and sell them. What you cannot do is print off that pattern and sell it as your own

yeah, its on the counter over there in the corner, behind the Buckin Bronco

FWIW I'm just redyeing some car leather for a client. It was a well worn very bright yellow and he wanted it just redyed black. I rubbed it all down with cellulose thinners to get as much of the top finish off as possible. I applied about 6 coats of black dye which was thinned 1:1 with methylated spirits. This morning it got a coating of pure neetsfoot oil, which has been buffed in. Tomorrow I'll start applying the Resolene which is also diluted 1:1 but with water. I'll apply as many coats as I see it needs Neat Resolene dries too fast and dries streaky, also drying too fast doesn't allow it to penetrate the leather. Diluting it helps it penetrate and flow better

I am another who is always late to the parties.: Happy Birthday Johanna, may you have a great day and everything goes as you wish it to ......... and the coffee is always fresh

For regular normal cones you can buy these inserts for the bottom of the cone https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Cone-Adapter-Haberdashery-H165/263804819148?epid=2254360451&hash=item3d6bfe16cc:g:A8gAAOSwn55a8vpH They are re-useable. Although only one is needed per cone I find two works better

I'm contrary to you mike. I always use a sponge for the reasons you advise using a spray bottle. With a sponge I can control how much moisture to put on and just where. Its all in how you use it; a sopping wet sponge is not good, a damp sponge wiped over the working area delivers just the right amount of moisture I use sponges bought in a discount store, 10 for £1 or so. They are about 3 inches by 4 inches by 3/4 inch thick. I use them for applying dye and top finish as well.

a/ in wet or damp environments brass wont corrode, the steel ones will and stain the leather. Wet and damp environments in which leather goods are used are such as fishing equipment, fire fighting equipment, camping equipment b/ currently brass is expensive on the world metals market. It is so expensive that its worth salvagers' time and effort to retrieve brass off sunken ships c/ yes they are. In Europe most of the leather-work hardware sold in local outlets is actually made in China, imported and sold at a great mark-up in price. Save the money, buy direct, if you can wait 7 days to 35 days for delivery

Shaking it might not be enough. I opened a new bottle of black dye last night. I gave it a very vigorous shaking before pouring it into a larger bottle. When I looked into the dye bottle there was a fairly solid layer of dye colourant in the bottom. It took several attempts with my dye thinners to dissolve that sediment - which was of course added to the larger bottle

Not done a wallet but I did a sword grip cover. The owner had a piece of (real) gold covered leather he wanted incorporated. It was a simple rectangle. I used the whip stitch (your B ) and it did the job well. I glued the edge of the outer part onto the edge of the gold piece thus the stitching was to do what you want - to stop the cut-out edge from lifting. I did the stitches at about 2.5 or 3mm apart, about 3mm in and just over the edge because there was about 3 or 4mm of the gold under the cut-out edge. BTW I skived the edges too, and lightly tapped them down with a rubber headed mallet after it was done

That should do the job nicely