fredk

another thot; have you tried removing it with alcohol? Methylated spirits, IPA, or even vodka?

thank you for taking the time to show us those tools

oh, a most useful shader type

The only thing I can say is try lacquer thinners, and lots of clean rags. Try removing some of this new finish in an area where it won't show too much. I use lacquer thinners [aka cellulose thinners] to remove the the glaze and dye on upholstery leather. Using the lacquer thinner will possibly remove some of the original finish, and you'll need to use plenty of leather feed/conditioner after as it also removes the oils from the leather.

I'm also interested in seeing that

B numbers are Bevelers, B60 is unusual as its an under-cut beveler. Use these around the edge of the letter, the thick part against the line P numbers are Pear shaders, they'll all be a pear shape, used mostly in flower work T944 I can't say as that number is no longer made or the T doesn't match any of the system letters. Use the pictures here on LePrevo's site for seeing each stamp. Its better than Tandy's for the design of the stamp, but doesn't give actual sizes http://www.leprevo.co.uk/carving-tools.htm

What you describe is what we call carving and 'tooling' There are literally hundreds of variations of tools for 'tooling' leather. If you can post up pictures of the working ends or the number on the handle if there is one. With those we can tell you what the tool is, what its for and how to use it

Well, that sinks that theory

With respect JLS, I think you're missing the point of these brushes; the handles are reservoirs for fluids. Meant for water in water-colour art I'll try thinned dye in them

Loctite what? Loctite is the brand name. They make thread lock, various adhesives including superglues

No, not tried that way, but I know I can hand do them quicker than getting out my spray brush and setting all that up, . I don't like using tape or anything with sticky on it on the good side of any leather. I paint on resolene as a resist on the squares I don't want coloured, but thats not always 100% effective

I'm wondering if he means by becoming loose, the whole Chicago Screw is able to move, not that they are unscrewing? You put them on tight in the leather work shop, but after a few days/weeks the leather dries a bit and shrinks allowing the C/s to be looser than when you fitted it [?] I had something similar when I riveted bosses on to some shields. I did them real tight but after a couple of months the bosses felt loose, there was about half to three-quarters of a mm between the boss rim and the wood shield. The wood had dried and shrunk. In that case I just peened the rivets some more to tighten them

Right, so those massive pliers will help you to release mildly stuck c/s, but not ones glued together Now, if [theres always an if] the OP had used paint to lock the threads, the paint could have been softened by the soldering iron heat, or if he used super-glue either the heat or a few drops of acetone/nail varnish remover soaked into the c/s joint would have done the job

I've ordered them from a seller in England. I should get them latter half of next week. It'll be a week or two before I can test them. What I'm thinking is they might be better than standard brushes when I do game boards. You know the checker pattern on a checkers/chess board. I do the coloured squares by painting in the dye colour with a paint brush. I have to be very careful not let a single drip get on the plain squares. A standard brush needs charging frequently, increasing the risk of a drip, but these might mean I can do the colouring of a square without that

In the UK military surplus outlets dodn't actually get their stuff from the military. Nor does the military sell on surplus. They have clearance agents who arrange the disposal of surplus, either through specialised auction houses, specialised dealers and even to foreign countries. You have to be part of the business and known in the market place before you can buy and sell UK military surplus. Most surplus shops in the UK sell mostly old stuff from the former Soviet Union and its satellite states and just a little bit of UK militaria

garypl asked; "Anyone Tried Using These Brushes with Dye or Acrylic Paint?" Not yet. I didn't know about them until you posted. I'm going to buy some and try them out. I think they may help me in one of my subjects.

How small is small to you? Tandy X511 is small. Visit the Tandy site and the sizes of the stamps are given. Even if you don't want to use Tandy stamps, their sizes will give an idea of what you want. https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/category/basketweave-leather-stamps

Excellent points

I think you're on you're own here I had to look them up. All my motorcycle boots had protectors sewn to the boot vamp. One on each boot, cos British motorcycles have the gear shift on the opposite side of Japanese motorcycles. On my boots it was just a thick piece of leather sewn on. Maybe it was about 2mm thick. Never wore out in several thousand miles of motorcycling

I concur to use an electric soldering iron. If you have a lot to do, reshape the soldering iron tip into a flat screwdriver blade. That way it can be used to turn the screw as it heats it. Or make a complete new set of leashes and sell on the ones with brass hardware

Lay them out and wash with saddle soap. Add pure neatsfoot oil after washing. Might have to do this a couple of times, letting the leather dry for a few days after each treatment. It may not remove all the smell, but if the leather is allowed to get plenty of fresh clean air around it the smell should diminish

All power tools, except power drills, for the UK market have a vacuum cleaner attachment tube integral with the machine body. But I think its better to have an oppo holding the vac sucker tube near the work

On a purse of this design the magnet should have no affect. I did have problems on a mans pocket wallet [US billfold?] though where the magnet was closer to the cards. Wiped them completely after a couple of days use

Actually my best year was 2004; Will Smith wore a similar looking hat in 'I, Robot'. People wanted the 'Will Smith Hat'. I must have done about 50 of them that year. >> I am not a mass producer! I recommend you get some of the Leatherwork books of the 1970s and earlier. They have loads of small projects which can either be copied or adapted. I have a book from the 1950s or late 1940s; in it are precise instructions for making gloves. That book cost me about $2. With the gloves and other projects in it its worth far more to me

No lining at all, just the raw leather inside