fredk

No, but its why an aeroplane can take off from a ship; take a WW2 type, nominal take off speed was around 70 to 80 knts air speed. An aircraft carrier steams into wind at 20 knts, wind speed is 15 knts = 35 knts along the deck, WW2 fighter just needs to accelerate to ship deck speed of 45 knts to get to take off speed of 80 knts a/s

yes , although the air speed is the same, the ground speed is different; going A-B the ground speed is 90 knts, going from B-A the ground speed is 110 knts. T'was one of the first basic questions at navigators classes in RAF. Then it got more and more complicated; air pressure at various heights, different cross winds, fuel consumption of a Buccaneer S2B in lbs per minute. Got through it all. Answer to Viking puzzle later...............maybe

With respect Oldnslow; I don't think thats the reasons. I reckon its because there are mighty few on here who have made a case, or do so at any time. Look how old the threads are Northmount found. Most of us make belts, bags, sheaths, holsters, saddles etcetera, but I don't read many talking about their cases. Its kinda more specialised

I reckon its either LumpenDoodle2 or Sheilajeanne turn to be 'it'

it takes a few days for others to come on and see it. I'm not playing cos I read that list on a certain website, Might be a give-away but I reckon they should have included Spirit in the Sky - Norman Greenbaum and Mrs Robinson - Simon & Garfunkel I'll give the answer to my Viking puzzle soon,........... maybe later.......maybe not

Part of that is false; the inside pockets do not need to be sewn flesh to flesh with the outside pieces; they just need to be sewn directly to the outer panels so that the two become one. The sewing of the inner pockets to the outside panels can be at the same time as the gusset is sewn to it, if its to be about the same size

If you sew the inside panel directly to the front and/or rear panels, they need to be flesh-flesh. When you go to turn it inside-out the double panel will turn as one, the outside of the outside panel will still be outside. I'd keep the tops of the extra inside panels weel short of the tops of the outside ones. especially the rear one, makes for easier access to the pocket

Give that man the ceegar! Your turn, you're 'it'

Trivia*; In the UK the 'Best before' date on packets of crisps** is always a Saturday*** ** crisps = potato chips in US *** I wonder if its the same in US/Oz/Canuk * Trivia. from Roman Latin, Tri Via, three-roads, or a cross roads, where people use to meet on market days to get the local gossip

I'll have to try it as well.

Here's a teaser, especially for Mjolnir. This is a genuine Viking puzzle, its been dated to as early as the 7th century [ thats the 600s, about 1400 years ago.] This one is one of my favourites There is a special form the Vikings [Norse/Danes] wrote/spoke their puzzles. Give me a name, name me The less I am the more men fear me Name me, give me a name

one word, the same word, 6 letters; means 'to join' and also means 'to separate' the word is ?

afair the Native Americans leave a knot undone so that the blanket does not keep evil in it, the evil has an escape route. Maybe thats a myth too.

Try gel-ink pens for the fine work

A. Nylon thread is basically a plastic. It won't absorb dye. Its made in different colours. It can be surface coloured but that will rub off with any use b. A shallow groove is cut or impressed into the leather as a track for the thread to sit down into. It saves it from most wear & tear c. Two pieces of leather have been stuck together and the sewing has helped join them. A different coloured thread on one side just means they used a different colour thread in the bobbin of the sewing machine d. the only option to re-colour the thread is to un-pick that already done and re-sew, by machine or hand. In this case by hand as the holes are already there, sewing again by machine will mean extra holes and the thread not lining up with the holes present. Unlike cloth, once there is a hole in leather, its there forever

Grand, its just that in the photos it looks like the stitching would be terribly close to the edge. Wouldn't like to see all that nice stamping go to waste cos you couldn't sew it

I can't answer your question but I have one to you - have you left yourself enough room for the stitching up the edge? It looks like it will be rather tight and close to the edge

Thank you..........but yours are just as good

Another way is to make the grove with a creaser and make the black line with a gel-ink pen

Blunt blade I think. Even if it feels sharp, give it a kiss with a stone or strop every little while. Its surprising how quickly leather can take the keenness off a blade

Get some books, maybe from the library; books like Valerie Micheal's, look at the intro and see what tools they recommend to have. From this list remove the fancy tools, some of the tools you may have in a household tool kit I make bags, belts, hats, games, clothes and more; I have three large tool boxes filled with tools, but they've taken me over 20 years to accumulate. Build your tool kit slowly and with care and you'll only need to buy once

IF I may jump in: a cobbler which was in a small town near me [sadly closed down these many years] used several clamp-to-table clams. He used a low bench and clamped the clam to it, so it was at seated working height. The object of using them was he clamped the item he was working on in a clam and he could quickly change what he was working on without disturbing it in the clam. The cobbler told me that these clams had been in use since at least the 1930s, he'd inherited them from his fore-fathers. Proving nothing in this Leather-working is new, just slightly different

That is excellent

or, buy a cheap non-working/non-motorised sewing machine. I picked up a non-motorised Singer clone sewing machine in a thrift store [called a charity shop here] for £5 [about $7] It does from 6 spi upwards. With no motor to strain it'll punch thru quite thick leather, and of course all holes are equally spaced. It'll feed the leather as fast as I want to turn the handwheel No-one wants these old heavy simple sewing machines here. The charity shop was glad to see that one go. I picked up a rough Singer 15 class for £1 at a carboot sale. That one is motorised but it needs serviced PS: I've only tested my sewing machine out; its not been used in anger yet as I'm remodeling my workshop place PPS: I see dikman has mentioned this too

There are some holster makers on here who have used this technique. Have a read thru these; http://leatherworker.net/forum/search/