fredk

garypl asked; "Anyone Tried Using These Brushes with Dye or Acrylic Paint?" Not yet. I didn't know about them until you posted. I'm going to buy some and try them out. I think they may help me in one of my subjects.

How small is small to you? Tandy X511 is small. Visit the Tandy site and the sizes of the stamps are given. Even if you don't want to use Tandy stamps, their sizes will give an idea of what you want. https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/category/basketweave-leather-stamps

Excellent points

I think you're on you're own here I had to look them up. All my motorcycle boots had protectors sewn to the boot vamp. One on each boot, cos British motorcycles have the gear shift on the opposite side of Japanese motorcycles. On my boots it was just a thick piece of leather sewn on. Maybe it was about 2mm thick. Never wore out in several thousand miles of motorcycling

I concur to use an electric soldering iron. If you have a lot to do, reshape the soldering iron tip into a flat screwdriver blade. That way it can be used to turn the screw as it heats it. Or make a complete new set of leashes and sell on the ones with brass hardware

Lay them out and wash with saddle soap. Add pure neatsfoot oil after washing. Might have to do this a couple of times, letting the leather dry for a few days after each treatment. It may not remove all the smell, but if the leather is allowed to get plenty of fresh clean air around it the smell should diminish

All power tools, except power drills, for the UK market have a vacuum cleaner attachment tube integral with the machine body. But I think its better to have an oppo holding the vac sucker tube near the work

On a purse of this design the magnet should have no affect. I did have problems on a mans pocket wallet [US billfold?] though where the magnet was closer to the cards. Wiped them completely after a couple of days use

Actually my best year was 2004; Will Smith wore a similar looking hat in 'I, Robot'. People wanted the 'Will Smith Hat'. I must have done about 50 of them that year. >> I am not a mass producer! I recommend you get some of the Leatherwork books of the 1970s and earlier. They have loads of small projects which can either be copied or adapted. I have a book from the 1950s or late 1940s; in it are precise instructions for making gloves. That book cost me about $2. With the gloves and other projects in it its worth far more to me

No lining at all, just the raw leather inside

ok, I'm back. The hat. I did not originate this. I got it from and adapted it from one in a 1976 book by Sylvia Grainger The book is called 'Leatherwork' - as simple as that. Its full of easy-peasy projects and I think it was the first book I bought over twenty years ago. In the book the pattern is split into two to fit the pages. It also calls for using shearling. Part A, is actually upside down but here so you can read the instructions Part B Together they make a piece approx 8 inches [at the base] x 10.5 inches. Lace four of these together and you get; When I started leather craft I acquired a great load of upholstery leather off-cuts. A lot of it was narrow strips. I adapted the hat pattern to use a D shape Each D is about 3.5 inches wide at the bottom and about 10 inches long. Using 8 of these D shapes I can make a nice round hat. The length can be greater or smaller than 10 inches as I do a double fold up rim, which uses up about 2 inches of the length. Also the 3.5 inches at the bottom can be increased to make the hat fit larger heads, but the size I have fits most heads. The 8 panels makes a better circular hat. No.3 son wearing his; a snap of a customer wearing his, several years after he bought it; [No.3 took the photo from a distance] I think this must have been an early made one using four panels like the shearling one; [modelled by Charles] All the hats I've made are hand sewn. I've only recently bought a couple of sewing machines. All the upholstery leather is in tones of brown. I cut through the finish with lacquer thinners then dye it black or dark brown These were quite a popular thing when I went to certain fairs. A wee story; the wife as was then was doing the selling at our medieval craft stall at an event. No.1 & I were doing sword fighting and archery displays. I'd made up about 15 of these hats to sell plus me and the boys each had one to wear under our chainmaille coifs [hoods]. Anyway, me, No.1 and No.2 stopped for a break. We put our gear on the lunch table. When we went to re-start our hats were missing, so were our wooden practice swords. Wifey had sold them! She'd run out of the hats and sold our four [No.3's hat was sold too] and she'd got a good offer for the wood swords so sold them. Her response was, 'you can make more later, but those customers are here now' Sorry if this is too much. If its not required just delete it

Its 03:07 here; time for zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzs I'll be back

Even though they are moderately small don't think they can only be used at that size. Sew them together edge to edge to make bigger pieces. Also I have a pattern for a hat/cap which requires 4 pieces 7 x 9inches each cut in an oval shape, or I use eight pieces about 4 x 9 or 8 inches in a half oval to make the hat.

Looks a beautiful job No critiscm of you work; are the screws countersunk? from an aesthetics point - can you turn the screws so they are in the same alignment? ie, both --- --- or / / or I I Will you use a metal polish to remove the last of the fabrication marks?

yeah, ship some to me too; they cost £12.50 and upwards here [US $15 plus]

Linear B is an ancient Greek text, still being deciphered. The letters forms you have on the holster are; ko ri da de I thought you'd used it to put the person's name on it

Is that Linear B on it? Koridade ?

Most excellent Good presentation is often forgotten about

As Cledus said to the Bandit; That'll work too

ramble away dprezgay; it all helps to understand your needs But 24 sets each with its own colour? I think for that you're going to have to go stripey. Using the heat shrink , a piece of red on one set, a piece of red and a piece of yellow on another set, red & blue on another, blue & yellow and so on. Thats easiest way I can see of doing 24 sets each with their own matching colour combo. I forget my maths but I think with 6 basic colours - red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, you will have more than enough colour mixes for 24 sets

Shop around; I could fix that without taking it apart, but I'm 3000 miles to far east

The Tandy stuff is only slightly thicker than the aluminium tape, but with that you can do hundreds of card wallets for under £5 Its actually just a customer feel-good thing. Its almost impossible for a thief to get your card details or snap a payment from your card. The thief needs to get their reader within about 50mm [under 2 inches] or less of your card. You'd notice if someone was pushing an electronic device against your coat/jacket/purse - wherever you carry your cards. And even then they need to hold it there steady for several seconds. Its quicker for them to dip and no anti-RIFD can counter that

No, its real thin aluminium tape for use on heating pipes etcetera. Its only 0.06mm thick. It doesn't take much to interfere with the RID signal https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Foil-Tape-Rolls2-48mm-X-45m-Heat-Insulation-Duct-Self-Adhesive-Silver-/263110117156?var=&hash=item0

Legs are known as 'Barley Twist' - popular in mid to late three-quarters of 19th century Europe although the style goes back to the mid 17th century or so. It looks like a Spanish made, or American-Spanish item for the Spanish in the South West of USA. The scroll work is reminiscent of the Spanish Moors school of art. I'd date this to about 1890 - 1910, Spanish American Any good wood worker will be able to turn you up a replacement spreader bar. You have to decide if you want the colour and finish is to be an exact match or slightly off so its only noticeable on close inspection

Get a piece of right-angled aluminium or steel, i.e. this shape: L, get a piece about 25mm on each arm of the L and about 600mm long. Use this as your straight edge; placing it with the open V on the leather [like this : A]. You now have a raised part to grip and push down with. Use a rotary blade cutter like Floyd suggests. With thin leather I do not start the cut at the edge, I start it in some, maybe a few cms, then I do that uncut bit after the rest.