fredk

No, not tried that way, but I know I can hand do them quicker than getting out my spray brush and setting all that up, . I don't like using tape or anything with sticky on it on the good side of any leather. I paint on resolene as a resist on the squares I don't want coloured, but thats not always 100% effective

I'm wondering if he means by becoming loose, the whole Chicago Screw is able to move, not that they are unscrewing? You put them on tight in the leather work shop, but after a few days/weeks the leather dries a bit and shrinks allowing the C/s to be looser than when you fitted it [?] I had something similar when I riveted bosses on to some shields. I did them real tight but after a couple of months the bosses felt loose, there was about half to three-quarters of a mm between the boss rim and the wood shield. The wood had dried and shrunk. In that case I just peened the rivets some more to tighten them

Right, so those massive pliers will help you to release mildly stuck c/s, but not ones glued together Now, if [theres always an if] the OP had used paint to lock the threads, the paint could have been softened by the soldering iron heat, or if he used super-glue either the heat or a few drops of acetone/nail varnish remover soaked into the c/s joint would have done the job

I've ordered them from a seller in England. I should get them latter half of next week. It'll be a week or two before I can test them. What I'm thinking is they might be better than standard brushes when I do game boards. You know the checker pattern on a checkers/chess board. I do the coloured squares by painting in the dye colour with a paint brush. I have to be very careful not let a single drip get on the plain squares. A standard brush needs charging frequently, increasing the risk of a drip, but these might mean I can do the colouring of a square without that

In the UK military surplus outlets dodn't actually get their stuff from the military. Nor does the military sell on surplus. They have clearance agents who arrange the disposal of surplus, either through specialised auction houses, specialised dealers and even to foreign countries. You have to be part of the business and known in the market place before you can buy and sell UK military surplus. Most surplus shops in the UK sell mostly old stuff from the former Soviet Union and its satellite states and just a little bit of UK militaria

garypl asked; "Anyone Tried Using These Brushes with Dye or Acrylic Paint?" Not yet. I didn't know about them until you posted. I'm going to buy some and try them out. I think they may help me in one of my subjects.

How small is small to you? Tandy X511 is small. Visit the Tandy site and the sizes of the stamps are given. Even if you don't want to use Tandy stamps, their sizes will give an idea of what you want. https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/category/basketweave-leather-stamps

Excellent points

I think you're on you're own here I had to look them up. All my motorcycle boots had protectors sewn to the boot vamp. One on each boot, cos British motorcycles have the gear shift on the opposite side of Japanese motorcycles. On my boots it was just a thick piece of leather sewn on. Maybe it was about 2mm thick. Never wore out in several thousand miles of motorcycling

I concur to use an electric soldering iron. If you have a lot to do, reshape the soldering iron tip into a flat screwdriver blade. That way it can be used to turn the screw as it heats it. Or make a complete new set of leashes and sell on the ones with brass hardware

Lay them out and wash with saddle soap. Add pure neatsfoot oil after washing. Might have to do this a couple of times, letting the leather dry for a few days after each treatment. It may not remove all the smell, but if the leather is allowed to get plenty of fresh clean air around it the smell should diminish

All power tools, except power drills, for the UK market have a vacuum cleaner attachment tube integral with the machine body. But I think its better to have an oppo holding the vac sucker tube near the work

On a purse of this design the magnet should have no affect. I did have problems on a mans pocket wallet [US billfold?] though where the magnet was closer to the cards. Wiped them completely after a couple of days use

Actually my best year was 2004; Will Smith wore a similar looking hat in 'I, Robot'. People wanted the 'Will Smith Hat'. I must have done about 50 of them that year. >> I am not a mass producer! I recommend you get some of the Leatherwork books of the 1970s and earlier. They have loads of small projects which can either be copied or adapted. I have a book from the 1950s or late 1940s; in it are precise instructions for making gloves. That book cost me about $2. With the gloves and other projects in it its worth far more to me

No lining at all, just the raw leather inside

ok, I'm back. The hat. I did not originate this. I got it from and adapted it from one in a 1976 book by Sylvia Grainger The book is called 'Leatherwork' - as simple as that. Its full of easy-peasy projects and I think it was the first book I bought over twenty years ago. In the book the pattern is split into two to fit the pages. It also calls for using shearling. Part A, is actually upside down but here so you can read the instructions Part B Together they make a piece approx 8 inches [at the base] x 10.5 inches. Lace four of these together and you get; When I started leather craft I acquired a great load of upholstery leather off-cuts. A lot of it was narrow strips. I adapted the hat pattern to use a D shape Each D is about 3.5 inches wide at the bottom and about 10 inches long. Using 8 of these D shapes I can make a nice round hat. The length can be greater or smaller than 10 inches as I do a double fold up rim, which uses up about 2 inches of the length. Also the 3.5 inches at the bottom can be increased to make the hat fit larger heads, but the size I have fits most heads. The 8 panels makes a better circular hat. No.3 son wearing his; a snap of a customer wearing his, several years after he bought it; [No.3 took the photo from a distance] I think this must have been an early made one using four panels like the shearling one; [modelled by Charles] All the hats I've made are hand sewn. I've only recently bought a couple of sewing machines. All the upholstery leather is in tones of brown. I cut through the finish with lacquer thinners then dye it black or dark brown These were quite a popular thing when I went to certain fairs. A wee story; the wife as was then was doing the selling at our medieval craft stall at an event. No.1 & I were doing sword fighting and archery displays. I'd made up about 15 of these hats to sell plus me and the boys each had one to wear under our chainmaille coifs [hoods]. Anyway, me, No.1 and No.2 stopped for a break. We put our gear on the lunch table. When we went to re-start our hats were missing, so were our wooden practice swords. Wifey had sold them! She'd run out of the hats and sold our four [No.3's hat was sold too] and she'd got a good offer for the wood swords so sold them. Her response was, 'you can make more later, but those customers are here now' Sorry if this is too much. If its not required just delete it

Its 03:07 here; time for zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzs I'll be back

Even though they are moderately small don't think they can only be used at that size. Sew them together edge to edge to make bigger pieces. Also I have a pattern for a hat/cap which requires 4 pieces 7 x 9inches each cut in an oval shape, or I use eight pieces about 4 x 9 or 8 inches in a half oval to make the hat.

Looks a beautiful job No critiscm of you work; are the screws countersunk? from an aesthetics point - can you turn the screws so they are in the same alignment? ie, both --- --- or / / or I I Will you use a metal polish to remove the last of the fabrication marks?

yeah, ship some to me too; they cost £12.50 and upwards here [US $15 plus]

Linear B is an ancient Greek text, still being deciphered. The letters forms you have on the holster are; ko ri da de I thought you'd used it to put the person's name on it

Is that Linear B on it? Koridade ?

Most excellent Good presentation is often forgotten about

As Cledus said to the Bandit; That'll work too

ramble away dprezgay; it all helps to understand your needs But 24 sets each with its own colour? I think for that you're going to have to go stripey. Using the heat shrink , a piece of red on one set, a piece of red and a piece of yellow on another set, red & blue on another, blue & yellow and so on. Thats easiest way I can see of doing 24 sets each with their own matching colour combo. I forget my maths but I think with 6 basic colours - red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, you will have more than enough colour mixes for 24 sets