fredk

or Botox Actually; a risky thing to try but you could try pouring very hot water over it. Give it a good soaking in near boiling water for a few minutes then dry rapidly. The leather will contract, but it'll also harden a bit so you'll need to put some neetsfoot oil or leather conditioner on it right after

A. I cannot really answer about pitch as I have not used it on anything. However as far as I know, brewers pitch comes as a solid and needs heated to liquefy it, beeswax can be added as a flow enhancer and to help the pitch stay flexible. The hot liquid pitch is poured into the container, which has been warmed, and the container rotated thru 3 planes to fully coat the inside then the pitch is poured out. This can be repeated once or twice more if necessary - twice more at maximum, but on most cups one thin coat is enough B. Brewers pitch remains flexible, epoxy resins harden too much and will crack away from the leather. A modern alternative would be a flexible rubber coating, but the only types I know of are for roof repairs so they might not be food compatible. Although Brewers Pitch isn't food approved either anymore as its been replaced by better alternatives of the 21st century C. Improper mixing and application causes the pitch to go on too thick and too hard, which causes it to crack after a while or after the container gets a knock. This has led it to having a poor reputation. I have a 14th/15th century cup lined with pitch, its still in very good usable condition [actually I think no.3 son has nicked it for his collection!] D. Brewers pitch sealing was done on leather flasks, some examples have survived from the Mary Rose and are on display in that museum

If you search them out you can get rivets with the same size head but different shaft lengths. You can also cut the shaft shorter. With a double head rivet you need to cut it with a rotary saw on a dremel type tool. On single head rivets I just cut with wire cutters then reform the shaft with a bodkin shoved into it. This can be done on a double head rivet too but its more awkward

Beeswax melts at about 65 degrees; it'll do for cold drinks but not hot. It won't do for anything containing alcohol either as it dissolves the beeswax

What about using one of these brass slickers in a soldering iron/pyrogravure https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Edge-Hot-Process-Brass-Electric-Iron-Copper-Head-Leather-Craft-Tool-UK-/192508734268?hash=item2cd26a2b3c or this type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Edge-Brass-Electric-Iron-Copper-Head-DIY-Leather-Craft-Tool-5-Groove-/282510513355?hash=item41c6f054cb which looks like something you could make yourself if you had some brass bar

another thot; have you tried removing it with alcohol? Methylated spirits, IPA, or even vodka?

thank you for taking the time to show us those tools

oh, a most useful shader type

The only thing I can say is try lacquer thinners, and lots of clean rags. Try removing some of this new finish in an area where it won't show too much. I use lacquer thinners [aka cellulose thinners] to remove the the glaze and dye on upholstery leather. Using the lacquer thinner will possibly remove some of the original finish, and you'll need to use plenty of leather feed/conditioner after as it also removes the oils from the leather.

I'm also interested in seeing that

B numbers are Bevelers, B60 is unusual as its an under-cut beveler. Use these around the edge of the letter, the thick part against the line P numbers are Pear shaders, they'll all be a pear shape, used mostly in flower work T944 I can't say as that number is no longer made or the T doesn't match any of the system letters. Use the pictures here on LePrevo's site for seeing each stamp. Its better than Tandy's for the design of the stamp, but doesn't give actual sizes http://www.leprevo.co.uk/carving-tools.htm

What you describe is what we call carving and 'tooling' There are literally hundreds of variations of tools for 'tooling' leather. If you can post up pictures of the working ends or the number on the handle if there is one. With those we can tell you what the tool is, what its for and how to use it

Well, that sinks that theory

With respect JLS, I think you're missing the point of these brushes; the handles are reservoirs for fluids. Meant for water in water-colour art I'll try thinned dye in them

Loctite what? Loctite is the brand name. They make thread lock, various adhesives including superglues

No, not tried that way, but I know I can hand do them quicker than getting out my spray brush and setting all that up, . I don't like using tape or anything with sticky on it on the good side of any leather. I paint on resolene as a resist on the squares I don't want coloured, but thats not always 100% effective

I'm wondering if he means by becoming loose, the whole Chicago Screw is able to move, not that they are unscrewing? You put them on tight in the leather work shop, but after a few days/weeks the leather dries a bit and shrinks allowing the C/s to be looser than when you fitted it [?] I had something similar when I riveted bosses on to some shields. I did them real tight but after a couple of months the bosses felt loose, there was about half to three-quarters of a mm between the boss rim and the wood shield. The wood had dried and shrunk. In that case I just peened the rivets some more to tighten them

Right, so those massive pliers will help you to release mildly stuck c/s, but not ones glued together Now, if [theres always an if] the OP had used paint to lock the threads, the paint could have been softened by the soldering iron heat, or if he used super-glue either the heat or a few drops of acetone/nail varnish remover soaked into the c/s joint would have done the job

I've ordered them from a seller in England. I should get them latter half of next week. It'll be a week or two before I can test them. What I'm thinking is they might be better than standard brushes when I do game boards. You know the checker pattern on a checkers/chess board. I do the coloured squares by painting in the dye colour with a paint brush. I have to be very careful not let a single drip get on the plain squares. A standard brush needs charging frequently, increasing the risk of a drip, but these might mean I can do the colouring of a square without that

In the UK military surplus outlets dodn't actually get their stuff from the military. Nor does the military sell on surplus. They have clearance agents who arrange the disposal of surplus, either through specialised auction houses, specialised dealers and even to foreign countries. You have to be part of the business and known in the market place before you can buy and sell UK military surplus. Most surplus shops in the UK sell mostly old stuff from the former Soviet Union and its satellite states and just a little bit of UK militaria

garypl asked; "Anyone Tried Using These Brushes with Dye or Acrylic Paint?" Not yet. I didn't know about them until you posted. I'm going to buy some and try them out. I think they may help me in one of my subjects.

How small is small to you? Tandy X511 is small. Visit the Tandy site and the sizes of the stamps are given. Even if you don't want to use Tandy stamps, their sizes will give an idea of what you want. https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/category/basketweave-leather-stamps

Excellent points

I think you're on you're own here I had to look them up. All my motorcycle boots had protectors sewn to the boot vamp. One on each boot, cos British motorcycles have the gear shift on the opposite side of Japanese motorcycles. On my boots it was just a thick piece of leather sewn on. Maybe it was about 2mm thick. Never wore out in several thousand miles of motorcycling

I concur to use an electric soldering iron. If you have a lot to do, reshape the soldering iron tip into a flat screwdriver blade. That way it can be used to turn the screw as it heats it. Or make a complete new set of leashes and sell on the ones with brass hardware