fredk

I get these from China via ebay; Available in Silver, Golden, Gunmetal and Black

SAE oil rated at a viscosity of 5 in Winter Modern cars usually use something like 10w/40 multigrade oil = 10 viscosity in winter and 40 in summer, ie its thinner in winter

Just got a delivery of my latest one see it here; https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/102026-freds-ramblings/page/12/

I just took delivery of my latest purchase Another sewing machine. Purchased off ebay. I couldn't resist the 'bling'. Its a domestic, possibly German and uses a shuttle. I'll check it out fully later. I doubt I'll put it to use though and it has a nice wood case 4 Singers, 1 Singer clone, 1 Tippmann Boss, 1 New Home & 1 (unknown)

Daddy can you do your frog impression? Why? Because mummy says when you croak we can all go to Disneyland

If you go for the all-in-one, shop around I got my first for about £21 and the second for under £15. My first is actually like your picture, red, but my second is black with the 'waisted' compressor I've seen them priced up to £90, and they are virtually all the same.

I have two of these. They're great. An ordinary spray brush can be fitted. Standard fitting, but not Badger fitting. The cup on top can be changed. Usually these come as a package with two different larger capped plastic cups; very useful for when you're spraying a large amount of dye or sealer With the two I have I swopped one over to an airbrush with a finer needle. They're not really all that bulky and are fairly light-weight. Some versions have a waisted-shape compressor which fit the hand better. Its great not having a hose trailing around to trip over or get wiped across work you've just done I've done plenty of spraying but never as yet exhausted the compressor I know nothing about your other airbrushes but I'd suggest cleaning them up and retiring them

An old thread rises from the obscurity An old tale, which used to do the rounds; A man's car was running badly so he took it the garage The experienced mechanic lifted the hood, listened to the engine for a few minutes then got out a screwdriver, reached into the engine bay, applied the screwdriver and adjusted something the minutest amount He tells the man 'that'll be $50' 'What!' says the man 'fifty bucks and all you did was twiddle that screwdriver!' 'Well, its like this, 50c for twiddling the screwdriver and $49.50 for knowing how and where to twiddle that screwdriver'

Not so much as wear off but as they age and/or get wet the nickel plating will come off as rust forms under the plating I rarely use nickel plated steel rivets. Mostly I use nickel plated brass or plain brass rivets

I mix my edge paints all the time, whenever I need a colour thats not standard ie, purple; dark and light, lavender et cetera

I think so, I hope so. That game went to new home. I've not had any bad words about it come back to me. I can't see any reason why it should not last and be good In Victorian times shellac varnish was used to put a high shine on shoes and afaik the House Hold Cavalry of the UK still use shellac varnish on their boots. Polyurethane varnish is a better modern varnish than shellac

I've not tried Vallejo varnish but I have used polyurethane varnish on my leather covered game boards On one board I covered with a pre-dyed chrome tan 'distressed blue' but working with the board the blue seemed be coming off. 2 coats of varnish settled it

How do I/we do that? I know the first step is to cook me a chuck to get the fats

You should ask this in the Leather Sewing Machines section. You'll get a proper answer there as the LSM people hang out there Is there perhaps a lock preventing its movement? or maybe you need to pull it out or push it in to move it?

Probably with a dedicated press

Run a file or fine saw on the outside parts of the blade slot to widen it and give more 'squeeze' room there. Make sure the captive nuts aren't turning as you tighten the bolts

I meant to post this a couple of weeks ago I got a piece of veg tan and smeared it in chicken grease/fat. Not too much, just a good coating with excess wiped off. It didn't last a week! It was really rotten to smell and so sickening I didn't bother to see if the leather was affected by the rancid chicken grease/fat Meanwhile, back at the ranch; No changes to any of the other test pieces, except a slight lightening (bleaching out) of the darker pieces I'll do a 'proper' report at the weekend

Cos we don't have bears I miss read the title as 'Hair spray' Show us the container and we will come up with at least a dozen designs

You can. I have done it. But with a press rated at 1.25 ton. More tonnage would be better

I always wet/dampen leather for dying. No matter the type of dye. And I always recommend it to others Wet or heavily dampened leather helps the dye seep through the leather avoiding 'hot spots' or uneven coverage

I was getting some things on TEMU and had to bring my order over the minimum value amount. Looking around for something cheap and possibly useful I came across these; they are stitch markers for knitters. I got 80 for about 50p (40c ?) They will keep two pieces of leather in alignment for sewing up

Is that a standard brass rivet? It looks like it to me

I've used those Tandy converters and I've had to re-tap the threads on the conchos I keep M3 and M4 taps handy for re-cutting threads. I also buy in M3 or M4 flanged head bolts to use. 25 bolts of each size cost me about £2.50 (each) ($3?)

The length of the posted messages doesn't matter. The system is set up so that, long or short, a page has 20 (?) massages on it then it turns to the next page. Shortening the profile bit won't get more on the page, just be less to scroll thru to read them all

That last line of your is the key; I use mapping pins into small cork block to align sewing holes or you can use these;