fredk

Good report I'll need to one now

Why is everyone, or nearly everyone, harping on about 'Mop & Glo'. I use it a lot BUT the chap says he doesn't want to use it and wont use it. Can we not try to compare other sealers that ARE available in the leather shop for him to try?

Pine tar? or Pine Resin? Over here they are very different Anyway, thanks. I'm about to order 500g of Pine Resin

First, try taking it back. It should not have any smell. None of mine has.

thanks

educate me; what is a 'striker fired pistol' ?

The chap does not want to use Mop & Go Now, of the regular leather shop sealers which meets his needs? tbh, all the ones I have dry matt or with a slight sheen, never a high gloss. It might be because I apply sealer diluted

Classy!

Mahogany won't go with the candy apple red. Why not try red leather?

All of the above, plus I test dyes on it, especially any dye that will be used on something made from the main piece of leather. Also, small drawstring bags/pouches

For those who don't know; as Doc has pointed out, talc is used in paints and varnishes to modify the gloss finish to a matt finish. In this case its called the 'matting agent'. But afaik it has to be talc. Modern baby powder uses corn starch

@SUP Any talcum powder, but make sure its talcum powder, either real or artificial

If you mix a small amount of talcum powder into the sealer it reduces the shine. eg, in a satin sealer it makes it more matt. By how much talc you put in you can control just how much a satin finish you end up with

I see what you mean. I only use my speedy-stitcher in emergencies. Its not too late; you can unpick the sewing and re-do it

That looks grand so it does

BTW, I need a 'stitch' groover for more than marking a stitching line. I need and use one for grooving out the lines on game boards, for delineating the squares. Thus the ability to use it without the guide is important to me

I have the one pictured and I have this one. The difference is that the cutter is in the main body so that when the guide is removed it can be used free-hand

It'll take time but those punches can be reground and re-sharpened Would AS Brand mean Al Stohlman Brand?

1. Just on the flesh side 2. I often use a 1/2 inch paint bush 3. Be careful; its too easy to put too much on. Too much NFO is near impossible to remove and then your work is ruined. Use very little. Depending on the size of your piece one or two brush fulls, in the centre, should be sufficient You want to see it disappear. Its there, working deep inside the leather

1. NFO is fats & oils. Cooking breaks own the integrity of the fats. Not exactly the same, put an egg in a micro for 10 sec. See how that changes, and 10 sec will hardly warm it 2. A jam jar 1/2 or 1/3 full of NFO placed in a jug of near boiling water should take just a few minutes to heat up. Do this whilst preparing your leather to receive its nutrition and you won't notice the time

1. warning, about warming. Heating the oil up in a microwave COOKS it. It warms up ok but each time its heated in a microwave it cooks. Bestest is to heat a jug of water in the micro then put your jar of NFO into that. The NFO doesn't need to be super-hot, just hot enough to flow nicely

I wonder if the title of this thread could be changed to 'Drying leather in the oven' imo 'curing' leather is quite different from what is being asked and discussed

I have wet moulded thin deerskin. It was about 0.8mm thick. Nowt fancy to the moulding; it was just moulded over a shape, then glued down. Its such a long time ago I can't remember the details. But, the deerskin held the shape well

1. Blue guns, or any other colour, are banned in N.I. I've tried to buy them and import them but I can't 2. Airsoft guns can be bought fairly cheaply in N.I.

It seems to me that you are cutting the straps straight and forcing them to conform whereas they should be cut to shape and wet formed to final shape